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Also, type of lights said "high end grower" was using? PAR values at those areas where he was blasting his lights at. PAR at the spots where you kept yours at? Most sps, such as Acroporas, which requires more light than Montis do fine in the 250-350 PAR range, which is considered high light. T5s and LEDs can push beyond that, but there's usually a balance in those tanks, where there's more nutrients/bacteria as well. I've seen sps kept in PAR values at ~900 PAR with T5s and have gone up as high as 770 PAR on my LEDs, but it took awhile to get there.

Lots of missing info like Randy mentioned.
 
RandyC said:
Lot of info missing from that statement that could lead you astray. What was he growing? How how were the lights mounted? How deep was the tank?
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He grows torches, zoas, blastos, frogspawn, hammers, montis, some leptos. Pretty much everything haha.

His lights were kessils from what I saw and mounted with a backpanel... I think its what its called. Not suspending from the ceiling or anything.

His tank is a lot shorter than mine in terms of depth since his is a frag tank. I figured my lights wouldnt be as strong as his light settings since my depth was twice the length of his. He wasnt wrong though cause so far all my corals are doing great in coloration and growth. I will change location of the montis occasionally since they are already bleached.




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the simple rule I follow for stuff like this is browning = needs more light and bleaching = needs less light and I just go from there
 
All that stuff you mentioned above are low to medium light corals. Kessils also don't put out that much PAR if you do a measurement relatively to some of the other LEDs/T5s/MHs currently being used. Some of the highest PAR values that I measured had the light mounted about 20" from the water surface, over a 24" tall tank, and I was still pulling 200-250 PAR at the sand bed.
 
Hmm. Okay I will try 40 whites and 80 everything else and see how that goes. Since in acclimation stage, its 20 white and 40 everything else.


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I’ll throw out one more bit of advise; try to avoid the temptation to change your light settings. It would be best to know what corals (at least a general idea) that you want to have and then use a par meter to help dial in the values that those corals will work well with and then don’t touch it.
 
Flagg37 said:
I’ll throw out one more bit of advise; try to avoid the temptation to change your light settings. It would be best to know what corals (at least a general idea) that you want to have and then use a par meter to help dial in the values that those corals will work well with and then don’t touch it.
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Yeah ive left them at 100 everything except green and red (0) and whites at 60 for a month. Nothing bleached and I have full colors.

Just wanted to see what advice other people had for corals I got that were not too healthy. If they die completely, it will be unfortunate... :(


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Flagg37 said:
I’ll throw out one more bit of advise; try to avoid the temptation to change your light settings. It would be best to know what corals (at least a general idea) that you want to have and then use a par meter to help dial in the values that those corals will work well with and then don’t touch it.
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Agree with this. I just think how high they were is overkill. Especially once rock work gets up higher. My settings are certainly not the only way to do it. Best to figure out what you want and leave it there though for sure.
 
My suggestion for Hydra users is not to mess around with the different colors.

Use the built in kelvin settings and adjust the overall intensity. Takes the guesswork out of what level of blues vs whites etc.


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