I have one of the ammonia badges. I have prime I believe would that be sufficient or no?
Would one badge be good or is this something that should be replaced during the treatment?
My first Fish copper Qt treatment
- Thread starter MichaelB
- Start date
Would one badge be good or is this something that should be replaced during the treatment?
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If I call correctly, Randy Holmes-Farley (basically the #1 authority of reef hobby chemistry) does not recommend using Prime to try to reduce ammonia in a reef tank. If you see ammonia going up best course of action is a large water change.
I also ordered the one Thomas refrenced just to be safe. I think he meant maybe if it's a emergency like oh crap thing. I assume as you mentioned water change would be the key method. Not that I would intend to rely on the ammonia remover stuff in place of water changes.
yep, thats correct.. I would also add more bottled bacteria to reduce Ammonia in addition to large water change
Another thing I would suggest is to ramp up the copper power slowly.. start at 1.5 and reach 2.25 in 2 days (anything between 2 to 2.5 is therapeutic).. meanwhile if any fish shows symptoms of stress in Copper, you can move it out of Copper
thanks for sharing pics.. are they still eating? Unless it's velvet which may wipe the tank in 24-48 hours, ich will give you enough time to react and move the fish if they are still eating and look active.. so you should have enough time to setup your hospital tank the 'right' way.. Fish facing the wave-maker is a really bad sign too.. PBT I lost before I went the Copper Power route on my blue tang was continuously facing the wave-maker and lying down on its side a day before its demise, so look out for that as well.. Copper Power works like magic, within couple of days, a lethargic fish will look all charged and begins to eat and have no visible white spots.. you should do the full course anyways as per the QT guide on HF
Here is the deep dive on why Prime does not work for lowering ammonia in reef tanks.
A Deep Dive on Ammonia Neutralizer Chemistry - Prime, ClorAm-X, Rongalite and friends.
Summary (the whole thing in one paragraph) ClorAm-X is the best-performing of a barely effective product concept. Under the label usage ClorAm-X (but not Prime, or other common products) can be measured to lower the amount of total ammonia in a saltwater sample. This process is slow...
www.reef2reef.com
Alm are still eating. I've dealt with velvet. It's been well over a week and a half at this point. I think it's ick.
I would recommend against ramping copper. That is only used for certain species of fish. Go to the HumbleFish forum or the fish medic threads on Reef2Reef. The recommended approach is to not ramp copper. Doing so reduces the potential effectiveness of medicated QT.
I did some research when cycling my tanks.. Someone did an experiment on R2R comparing a few options and Turbostart cycled the tank the fastest.. Since time is of essence for you, I would suggest you also go with TurboStart Fritz 900 (not Dr Tims).. here is the thread with the details if interested
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/n...-equal-whos-who-and-what-do-they-need.989780/
I believe Puffers are in that sensitive to Copper list, hence recommending this route since it gives time to react if puffer is acting stressed
Yeah its definitely not velvet, and I wasnt suggesting that either
Was saying since its ich, you should have enough time to set the hospital tank the right (cycled) way without skipping a step or 2.. Good to know everybody is eating well! Feed more, with vitachem/selcon/lipo garlic.. Setup UV when you are in the fallow period
Coral reefer
Past President
No net for puffer. Ideally a large pot or bowl. Keep it in water. If they puff up in the net it’s no good, and if they try to when out of water also no good.
Turkeysammich
Moderator
I’m gonna go against what some of you guys said. I’m not a fan of fast ramping copper. I’ve done it in the past. I think it shocks the fish. They become extremely lethargic. Even when I slow ramp. 0.25-0.5 over 6-8 hours. Some fish are still tweeky. It something takes 3-5 days for the fish to over come appetite suppression. The only time I fast ramp is when I’m against the clock. Like velvet.
Also. Some types of fish. I don’t like to pass 1.75. That’s the minimum of therapeutic level. Some hardier fish can go up to 2.25-2.5 but they get tweeky. Some die up at that level. You gotta remember. Copper is poison. Your trying to kill the ick or whatever before the copper kills your fish.
Also. Some types of fish. I don’t like to pass 1.75. That’s the minimum of therapeutic level. Some hardier fish can go up to 2.25-2.5 but they get tweeky. Some die up at that level. You gotta remember. Copper is poison. Your trying to kill the ick or whatever before the copper kills your fish.
I would recommend following a protocol developed by professionals who work for public aquariums and who have quarantined more fish than any hobbiest will ever deal with. HumbleFish has a very active forum focused on fish disease. I personally follow the protocol outlined by the fish medic team at Reef2Reef. It addresses most of the issues in this thread and was developed by persons who take care of fish professionally:
www.reef2reef.com
Current Quarantine Protocol
2024 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these...
www.reef2reef.com