I know you are heavily invested going the Copper route but I wish everyone going through Ich starts reading about Hyposalinity.. Its the easiest treatment out there for ich and flukes.. Taking out Corals and Inverts might be easier than taking out all those fish.. Setting up a 20g tank for all the corals and inverts should be enough instead of managing 2 separate 40g breeder tanks, dealing with cycling, changing water, parameters management etc .. Again, my intention is not to have you re-strategize, but for anybody reading this thread and struggling with ich in DT, do spend 30 mins reading about Hyposalinity.. From near death to spotless and healthy fish, I was able to achieve that in my Display Tank in less than 3 months.. And its not as hard as somebody might think.. with an ATO, maintaining 1.009 salinity is the same as maintaining 1.026 salinity for 3 months! Now of-course I can re-introduce ich, but hope that with ich management, I can keep that at bay!
My first Fish copper Qt treatment
- Thread starter MichaelB
- Start date
Note that I believe minimum fallow period for a tank where you are trying to irradiate ich is 45 days. Safer is 60 days. Some also recommend increasing the temperature to 81 degrees which speeds up the lifecycle for certain reef hobby parasites.
Last time I did it I went 76 days, i will also raise temperature. Yet I probably need to add a second heater. I don't wanna turn my current heater higher than 78 on its digital controller. I hover around 75 in that tank currently. I don't wanna speed up the ich cycle with fish still in the tank. I'm probably a couple days away from starting qt. I wanna make sure those tanks are running legitimate before moving fish. And waiting for a few items to arrive.
Ok, So here is tbe completed step up as of now.
Both tanks has:
1.) 300 watt heaters with their own digital controllers.
2.) Cascade 300 Power Hob Filters- rated at up to 100 gph. They each have 3 bags mesh bags filled with sechem matrix.
* one tank also has a aquaclear 30 with sechem matrix
3.) A sponge filters rated at 60gallons the sponge filters are filled with more sechem matrix.
4.) Both tanks has the hang on glass sechem ammonia alert. One of them also has the ph alert badge.
Salinity will be at 0.25 last checked was 0.24 after adding more salt.
I currently have a 15 gallon ato resivor to use on both tanks. Unfortunately I only have one ato device since Now I need to find another one.
I now have 3 bottles of copper power 2 small and one medium sized bottle.
I have 2 bags of sechem CupriSorb to help remove copper traces at the end of treatment.
Hanna ammonia checker 25 tests
Hanna copper checker 50 tests.
Now, I just need the courage to add the copper and catch the fish.
Both tanks has:
1.) 300 watt heaters with their own digital controllers.
2.) Cascade 300 Power Hob Filters- rated at up to 100 gph. They each have 3 bags mesh bags filled with sechem matrix.
* one tank also has a aquaclear 30 with sechem matrix
3.) A sponge filters rated at 60gallons the sponge filters are filled with more sechem matrix.
4.) Both tanks has the hang on glass sechem ammonia alert. One of them also has the ph alert badge.
Salinity will be at 0.25 last checked was 0.24 after adding more salt.
I currently have a 15 gallon ato resivor to use on both tanks. Unfortunately I only have one ato device since Now I need to find another one.
I now have 3 bottles of copper power 2 small and one medium sized bottle.
I have 2 bags of sechem CupriSorb to help remove copper traces at the end of treatment.
Hanna ammonia checker 25 tests
Hanna copper checker 50 tests.
Now, I just need the courage to add the copper and catch the fish.
Great looking QT set up so far. Way better than the 127g pond and more manageable.
A couple suggestions, I’d recommend getting a window screen kit and making a lid or use egg crate. Would be a shame if any fish jumps out during QT.
Secondly, Do you plan on filling the tanks all the way up? Or do you know how much water is exactly in the tanks? That’ll make it easier for you to figure out how many milliliters of Copper Power you should be using to get to your incremental ppm stages. I use this calculator to help with those calculations:
Good luck!
A couple suggestions, I’d recommend getting a window screen kit and making a lid or use egg crate. Would be a shame if any fish jumps out during QT.
Secondly, Do you plan on filling the tanks all the way up? Or do you know how much water is exactly in the tanks? That’ll make it easier for you to figure out how many milliliters of Copper Power you should be using to get to your incremental ppm stages. I use this calculator to help with those calculations:
Copper Power Calculator | CALCONIC_ Calculator
Custom Copper Power Calculator calculator, built using CALCONIC_
app.calconic.com
Good luck!
I can't really fill them up all the way they aren't perfect level. So I might. Have to guess. Little bit to get thr right numbers in beginning.
I do have left over screen netting just need to figure out how to secure it.
You can order nylon spring clamps or paper clips to secure them.. Dont trust these nets without securing them.. When ClearWater was fish-sitting my fish, I ordered the same netting and put paper clips thinking its secure enough.. next day when I went to check on the fish, blue tang was in the tank next to the original tank.. apparently, it decided to jump from this tank to the neighboring tank through that 1 loose end of the netting.. It feels unbelievable thinking that the tang decided to jump from the end where luckily it had another tank to land in, wherein all the other 3 sides would have been disastrous!
QTs can be harsh on these little guys, plus any sudden changes like lights on/off in a new environment can spook them enough to make them jump out of the tank.
