Jestersix

Oceanic 58

So at the bottom of the 1" and 3/4" bulkhead I have 1" spigots for tubing. For the main drain (3/4") is this okay? It goes down to my sump which is 2 1.25" inlets and I have a 1" adapter for it. So basically the main is .75 to 1 to 1.25 sump and the emergency is 1 to 1 to 1.25.
 
alvin chiao said:
Can I make the one inch pipe the one with the durso standpipe? And the 3/4" one an open emergency line? I'm so messed up, I bought all these different parts. I think I need a new standpipe for the 3/4" drain which should be the main drain? I have a gate valve for 3/4". So either I need a 1 inch gate valve or a 3/4" durso standpipe. I can use the gate 3/4" gate valve on the return I guess?
Click to expand...

You can get reducer bushing/adapter if you already have the gate valve in 3/4"
 
http://imgur.com/mF4OCiY

So my tubing is a little off. It seems like it may bend once it's in there. I'm hoping the water will expand the tube. Do u think this is okay? Also, maybe the main drain gate valve can be positioned to minimize the bending in the tube. The tube is silicon tubing and feels like it is good quality, but the bend may restrict water flow and leak out where the tubing connects to the barbed fitting. I'm hoping I don't need to redo the plumbing for hard plumbing but if I have to, now is the best time. Thanks!
 
Dang, figured. Ok back to the drawing board. While I'm at it should I make the return line hard plumbing? Really worried about the soft tubing hanging over the side of the tank. And I need to make a screen top for the tank that fits around the return line
 
can't you curve the tubing behind those barbs? How hard or soft is the tubing? I've never use silicon tubing, I've used vinyl and have used boiling water to force it to curve the way I want.

You can of course use 90 degree barbs if you want.
 
Oh! LOL! I thought for some dumb reason that the barb was in the way, not that they were connected!

yes, that's my old trusty tank, but Alvin bought a new sump.

If it was vinyl, MAYBE heating up and bending would work.

One solution you could do is, instead of that one foot long tube and trying to connect it straight on like that, is cut a 3 foot or so piece, then make a circular loop into the sump barb.

Like a paperclip. Harder to explain, but imagine taking a longer piece of tubing, connecting it to the drain barb, then lead it straight down, then loop back to the left past the sump barb, up and then back down onto the sump barb. See what I mean?

V
 
Hmm I'm leaning towards 4 90 degree fittings (2 for each drain) That way it will be a straight shot to the sump and I can put the gate valve there.

I also have some leftover pvc. Should I just bite the bullet now and use hard plumbing under?
 
Hard plumbing is fine but if there is a small quake that shifts your tank you don't want two water filled tanks connected by hard plumbing. If the bottom on the 58 cracks you are screwed.

You don't like the idea of looping longer hose around in a circle?

V
 
Vincerama2 said:
Hard plumbing is fine but if there is a small quake that shifts your tank you don't want two water filled tanks connected by hard plumbing. If the bottom on the 58 cracks you are screwed.

You don't like the idea of looping longer hose around in a circle?

V
Click to expand...

That's a bad idea. Won't flow well
 
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