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vissen319

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Hi all,

I would like to connect my DI water to one of my water line in the basement. I want to "T" off a water line. It is galvanized pipe.

The guy at ace hardware suggested that I could use compression coupling for this. I do not have any tools to solder a copper fitting either.

What do you think? Let me know if I am missing something. Thank you for your help.

The plan is to T off the main line, add a shutoff valve and then a compression fitting with a 1/4" fitting on one end.

I did not have a picture of the T compression coupling but it looks like the one on this picture.
 

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I could probably help too. I wouldn’t use compression. I would get an adapter that has a push connect for the 1/4” rodi line. And also I’d remove the galvanized if possible.
 
Argh. I did think the guy was making it sound too easy. I do have an adapter. Push fitting on one end and 1/2" MPT on the other end that goes onto that T compression coupling.
 
Coral reefer said:
I could probably help too. I wouldn’t use compression. I would get an adapter that has a push connect for the 1/4” rodi line. And also I’d remove the galvanized if possible.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I could remove the galvanized pipe but if PVC coupling is a bad idea, is it easier to cut a section of that pipe, put a dielectric coupler and move to copper line?

In case I mess up the other galvanized fittings (that you see at the bottom in the pic).
 
If it’s freshwater, I would do something a little more professional and use brass compression instead of a push fit for your RODI line also.
 
The only caveat: Make sure to use BLACK RO tubing if running it outside.
The white tubing is not UV resistant, and it became brittle and cracked in about 4 years.
 
robert4025 said:
If it’s freshwater, I would do something a little more professional and use brass compression instead of a push fit for your RODI line also.
Click to expand...
rygh said:
I would suggest a simple saddle valve. This is what I used for my RO input line outside.
Like this.
https://fthmb.tqn.com/CpMk3GYFxzFjk...o,1)/Saddlevalve-59fe86d79e9427003c100105.jpg

You turn off water, drill a small hole in the pipe, smooth out the area around the hole, then clamp it on.
Click to expand...
Not arguing, but why do you guys recommend compression? I’ve not had good luck getting high pressure with the saddle valves in the past.
 
Coral reefer said:
Not arguing, but why do you guys recommend compression? I’ve not had good luck getting high pressure with the saddle valves in the past.
Click to expand...

I’ve had push-fit fittings failed several times under high pressure (especially above 60 psi) for several reasons. Brass, compression…never. Obviously, metals like brass and copper is not good with saltwater so that’s the downside.
 
Coral reefer said:
Not arguing, but why do you guys recommend compression? I’ve not had good luck getting high pressure with the saddle valves in the past.
Click to expand...
The saddle valve itself should not fail. There are bolts holding it together and a nice rubber pad to seal it.
Of course a really cheap crappy one might, or one that is way over-tightened.

If you mean the push fit RO fittings. Those are basically standard. I am not recommending them as much as assuming
they will be used. The main failure there is from using cheap RO tubing. I think some brands are a bit soft, so they compress in the fitting.
 
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