Jestersix

Randy’s Flock o' Reef Tanks

Introducing the latest to my flock of reef tanks. Why in the world do I need another?

150 Gallon Tank

I picked up this tank from @CreAzn at the end of December and have finally got around to start setting it up.

First thing was to get a new overflow. I'm not the biggest fan of Synergy Reefs' Shadow overflow so I ordered a new overflow from Modular Marine, but that required a custom build because the bulkhead holes through the tank were drilled closer than their standard overflow.
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Changed out the vinyl backing as the old one had holes in it and light shined through. Fairly easy replacement with soapy water and a squeegee/credit card.
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Took a little bit of time, but I finally got a good deal on a suitable sump from @Srt4eric, a Tigger Systems Platinum 39. I don't use any mechanical filtration in any of my tanks, so I won't be using the roller mat attachment or socks.

Plumbed all the drains with purple pipe and returns in blue.
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Cut a new lid out of polycarbonate to cover the spot where the roller mat used to reside.
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Tapped a spot to hold a second return line as I always run two return pumps now in case one fails.
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So like any good garage, mine is pitched to allow for water drainage. I didn't realize the tank would need to be shimmed this much. That being said, at least I found a new tool that I love.

Air Shims. Made leveling this tank a breeze. Also put felt pads on a bunch of heavy furniture myself...tool is mucho cool.


The air shims allow you to get the exact level you need and then you can place the shims as needed without having to pound them in.
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It's not pretty, but it should work. Maybe I'll have to "pretty-fy" it at later time. But hey, it's just the garage. ;)
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Now water making/filling has resumed.
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RandyC said:
So like any good garage, mine is pitched to allow for water drainage. I didn't realize the tank would need to be shimmed this much. That being said, at least I found a new tool that I love.

Air Shims. Made leveling this tank a breeze. Also put felt pads on a bunch of heavy furniture myself...tool is mucho cool.


The air shims allow you to get the exact level you need and then you can place the shims as needed without having to pound them in.
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It's not pretty, but it should work. Maybe I'll have to "pretty-fy" it at later time. But hey, it's just the garage. ;)
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Now water making/filling has resumed.
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Click to expand...

I used to use those air shims to break into cars for AAA.
 
Ran into my first problem, which I kind of knew would be a problem, but I was hoping for the best. Should have known better.

Anyway, whoever at trigger designed these pipe holders needs to go back to the drawing board.

1. They used double thick acrylic I'm sure to ensure that there's less chance of crack the pipe holder/ring, but in doing so, made it too thick so that the pipe thread only grabs about 2.5-3 threads deep. No matter how much Teflon tape or thread sealant I tried to use one of the returns was always leaking. This can also be a problem for drains, not because of water leaking, but because they can stuck in air as the water passes by and puts air bubbles in the sump and can generate a decent amount of noise because of the air.

2. While I completely understand that you should secure your pipe another way, using only two nylon screws on a thin edge with bendable screws while have heavy PVC pipe and some likely torque is inviting damage to happen.

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Trigger systems. You gotta ditch these things and come up with something better!

At any rate, water is running now after I changed it to this. I will eventually paint the wood blocking white so it doesn't stick out like an eye sore.

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I'm such a sucker for Elegance corals. I swore them off because I think in my entire reefing career, I've killed way more than I kept long term (over a year). Keeping my fingers crossed. Here's a pic of them right after they exited QT and dropped into one of my systems.

Aussie Elegance
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Indo Elegance - no name, but looks very similar to what vendors sell as a lemon drop elegance
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RandyC said:
Ran into my first problem, which I kind of knew would be a problem, but I was hoping for the best. Should have known better.

Anyway, whoever at trigger designed these pipe holders needs to go back to the drawing board.

1. They used double thick acrylic I'm sure to ensure that there's less chance of crack the pipe holder/ring, but in doing so, made it too thick so that the pipe thread only grabs about 2.5-3 threads deep. No matter how much Teflon tape or thread sealant I tried to use one of the returns was always leaking. This can also be a problem for drains, not because of water leaking, but because they can stuck in air as the water passes by and puts air bubbles in the sump and can generate a decent amount of noise because of the air.

2. While I completely understand that you should secure your pipe another way, using only two nylon screws on a thin edge with bendable screws while have heavy PVC pipe and some likely torque is inviting damage to happen.

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Trigger systems. You gotta ditch these things and come up with something better!

At any rate, water is running now after I changed it to this. I will eventually paint the wood blocking white so it doesn't stick out like an eye sore.

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Click to expand...

My trigger setup is the same as the 1" fitting for the return pump and I noticed a very slight leak (1 drop a day?). When touched it's not wet, but you can see a bit of salt creep. I remember watching videos/ or reading documents when I first installed this and this was the way to install from my memory. When looking at the latest online, I read the instructions as to not use the 1" inlets as a return. See line item 8, which I moved to return area. When I have some time, I will probably replumb this, as I feel it is the cause to microbubbles in the DT.

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fishy408 said:
My trigger setup is the same as the 1" fitting for the return pump and I noticed a very slight leak (1 drop a day?). When touched it's not wet, but you can see a bit of salt creep. I remember watching videos/ or reading documents when I first installed this and this was the way to install from my memory. When looking at the latest online, I read the instructions as to not use the 1" inlets as a return. See line item 8, which I moved to return area. When I have some time, I will probably replumb this, as I feel it is the cause to microbubbles in the DT.

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Click to expand...

The connectors would be fine if the holder they made wasn't as thick as it is. I ended up having to remove the holder from the other return as well as that started leaking too. So this is what I have going on now.

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The problem also exists on the drain as well as it will pull in air and create micro bubbles in the sump. See post #3 for the fix I made for the drain. This likely wouldn't work for the return since there's pressure involved.
 
I picked up one of the mariculture colonies from Clearwater that came in fresh from Indo back on March 3. Here's how it goes so far after a month. Getting some color to develop, but the fuzziness! Oh the fuzzies!

March 3, 2025 - sitting in QT
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March 12, 2025
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March 21, 2025
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April 5, 2025
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150 Gallon Tank

Took a week long trip for the kids' spring break, but I managed to get some rocks and sand into the 150 Gallon tank before I took off. Put in a Maxspect nano-block from the IM75 and for giggles, I threw in some tiny bottles of MicroBacterXLM start, Dr. Tim's One and Only and Fritz TurboStart. Along with some Carribsea Ocean Direct original grain sand. All the bacteria in the bottle was completely unnecessary since I used a nano brick from the IM75, but why not, just in case.

I am not an aquascape expert by any means. I should have paid someone.... I just need make sure to eventually grow it out with big 'ole acro colonies then no one will notice.

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So far I just have a heater, return pumps, wave pumps and an ATO with a couple of baby tangs swimming happily in the sump. Still no lights up yet. If I didn't already have the equipment, I planned to set up this tank with inexpensive equipment with redundancy adding robustness (more expensive equipment) where needed.

Here's what is in the tank so far.
- Wifi power strip from Amazon
- Hitop 600W heater with Two Stage Ranco Controller - will eventually have two of these heaters, but probably need to add a new outlet on a separate breaker first. Running out of amps from the other tanks! ;)
- Dual return with inexpensive pumps since they're setup for redundancy. Orlushy DC-4000 25W 1050GPH
- Two MP40s that I got for a great price
- DIY ATO top off. Pretty much just a 12V relay with two float switches I built and a MaxiJet 600 pump and use these mostly on my QT tanks
- Petbank Auto Fish feeder for fish in the sump. I have used this feeder for years in most of my tanks.
- 40lbs of Special Grade Dry Carribsea Sand
- 20lbs of Ocean Direct Live Original Grade Carribsea Sand
- mostly Pukani rock I've been holding onto for years or collected since they've stopped selling it.

Still to add
- Two Hygger 25W cross flow (Gyre) pumps I need to put in
- probably the one thing I won't skimp on. Lights! I'm a fan of Radion G4 Pro lights and have had backups or got some on a great deal so been hoarding them. Yes, I overkill on lights. ;)Will start with 3 XR30 G4 Pros with two XR15 G4 Pros. Will probably add a light bar in front and back eventually. Here's the plan for the arrangement once I get all the mounts and hanging parts.
- been sitting on a AquaUV 57W unit. Debating if I should add it.
- had a Bubble King Double cone 180 with an RD3 laying around for a couple years. Will probably add this after fish have been moved from the sump.
- have to calcium reactor setup to add to the system and will probably use an Ecotech Versa for the pump since I have a couple spares.

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IM75

PSA: don't overtighten your unions. I busted up my calcium reactor while cleaning and refilling with media yesterday.

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I was lucky that the union was a common brand (Lasco) and was easy to get. I was able to cut off part of the recirculating manifold and remove a piece of the pipe from a 90 elbow using a heat gun.

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Turns out, I also busted the weld on the 1/2" PVC pipe that was cemented to the lid in my display of brute strength. Unfortunately, my weldon 4 and 16 had evaporated and dried out, but I was lucky @Arvin R had some on hand.

I also replaced the uniseals since they started leaking. Rubber seemed to be getting a little hard, but after replacing, all seems well again in the land of the IM75.
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