Neptune Aquatics

Randy's Red Sea Reefer 250

About MarinePure block, from what I read (no actual real experience), you should place it at lower flow area of the tank to promote anaerobic bacteria -> reduce nitrate. Place it at higher flow area would promote aerobic bacteria that convert ammonia -> nitrate. It seems that you have a good amount of rock and wouldn't need the later as much.
 
Yeah, I heard that too. I was thinking of putting a piece in my fuge because it's pretty low flow, but anywhere else in my sump, I'd worry about it crumbling since I have so little room to move around already. Any playing around in there I'm bound to rub against it. MarinePure is so brittle!

Think the thicker 4" block would be better to help well to create a low O2 area? Or is that stuff so porous, thickness wouldn't matter?
 
RandyC said:
Yeah, I heard that too. I was thinking of putting a piece in my fuge because it's pretty low flow, but anywhere else in my sump, I'd worry about it crumbling since I have so little room to move around already. Any playing around in there I'm bound to rub against it. MarinePure is so brittle!

Think the thicker 4" block would be better to help well to create a low O2 area? Or is that stuff so porous, thickness wouldn't matter?
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I still don't really understand that product except in very special situations.
Why not just use Oolitic sand?
Similar bio-filter abilities. Cheaper. Probably won't break.
If it gets clogged with detritus, you can clean it instead of replacing it.
And as a bonus, you get fun extra critters in the sand.

You cannot put fine sand in a really high flow area, but that is true of the blocks as well.
 
Vhuang168 said:
It does the job of extra rock.


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Sortof.
But it is being used in the bottom of a sump, and nothing growing on it or attached to it.
Just for Nitrate reduction.
So being used very much like the old "Remote Deep Sand Bed" RDSB idea.

Although a benefit I guess is that you can stack it along the sides, and keep it out of the way.
 
Day 44 of the setup and I've migrated most of my livestock from my 12 gallon Fluval Edge to the RSR250. Still have zoas to move, but I'm looking for a good rock island. Not sure I want to have zoas all over the place.

I'm happy to report though, a tank full of diatoms. Hopefully, it won't last too long and will clear up soon. Thinking of buying more CUC soon since I only have 3 banded trochus, 3 cerieths, 3 nassarius, and 2 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp.

Here's a video and screenshots of the tank. I didn't clean the glass to give you the full diatom effect. :)


FTS
Day_0044_diatom_bloom_FTS.jpg


My Ocelleris Clowns love the back corner of my tank....hope they don't stay that way and move closer to the front
Day_0044_diatom_bloom_clowns.jpg


Aussie gold torch & Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
Day_0044_diatom_bloom_aussie_gold_torch.jpg


Mmmmm....diatoms
Day_0044_diatom_bloom.jpg
 
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So clean! Definitely gonna keep reefer 250 in mind for a future build. For now 20gal should keep me busy for the winter.


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Day 46: Diatoms don't seem to be getting worse, roughly the same as a couple of days ago. Maybe it has peaked and will start to recede now. Fingers crossed. I added some more CUC. 4 more nassarius snails and 3 banded trochus snails. Also threw in some copepods to add to biodiversity. I started with very dry, very dead rock so I have no extra critters at all for helping with detritus.

Started off with two Algagen Pods packages: Tisbe and Apocyclops. I just emptied them into my fuge with the chaeto.

Day_0046_added_pods.jpg


I also found this a while back and have been using it and think it's pretty useful for drip acclimation. Got it from Amazon for $23.

Day_0046_acclimation_device.jpg


Skimmer seems to have finally broke in. It was either not generating anywhere close to enough bubbles or skimming too wet and the collection cup was filling with water in a couple of minutes. Nothing in between. finally after about 1.5-2 weeks of running it, I'm finally getting some dry skimmate.

I also finally threw in some GFO two days ago. Now that I'm feeding, I figure an ounce of prevention will be better than dealing with what may come without it later on.
 
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Thanks for posting pics. I'm gonna get that stuff too. I like that I'm a few weeks behind you.

When did you start the fuge? Once you saw the diatoms or before?
 
Gablami said:
Thanks for posting pics. I'm gonna get that stuff too. I like that I'm a few weeks behind you.

When did you start the fuge? Once you saw the diatoms or before?
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I converted my stock ATO unit to a fuge during setup and plumbing. So pretty much from the start of the build before it was wet with saltwater. And added the cheato after my rock had cycled and I had livestock in the tank.
 
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El Chepo Fuge grow light looks to be working out well. For $23, I got this 225-LED flat panel grow light (~20W according to my Kill-a-Watt) from eBay.

It looks like I got almost 2x growth in about 6 days.

On Thurs Oct 13:
coral_migration_fuge_cheato.jpg


Today, Wed Oct 19:
Day_0047_chateo_growth.jpg


I used my Seneye and it says the PAR is between 80-115 (back-front) and here's a graph of the spectrum it reads. So looks like the panel I got is legit in outputting high in the 430-460nm range as well as the 650-670nm range.

Day_0047_fuge_spectrum_chart.png


I like! :)
 
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I keep it on from 8pm-8am.

Seneye wasn't actually something I was looking to get, but BRS was having a 20% 15% off special on it, plus the 5% rewards so I got it for $165. Couldn't pass up a par meter at that price.
 
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Nice setup, great job keeping all the equipment super clean and organized! Neat LED panel on the algae scrubber, I was thinking that maybe you could cover the LED panel in a thin layer of Clear Encapsulating Epoxy (potting resins) that they use to POT (encapsulate) electronic for water resistance.
 
<3-2-reef said:
Nice setup, great job keeping all the equipment super clean and organized! Neat LED panel on the algae scrubber, I was thinking that maybe you could cover the LED panel in a thin layer of Clear Encapsulating Epoxy (potting resins) that they use to POT (encapsulate) electronic for water resistance.
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Thanks!

Good idea on the epoxy. I haven't worked with clear epoxy much, do you think light production would be reduced much with a layer of epoxy? Also, at quick glance at pricing, getting enough epoxy to cover the entire panel (11.5" x 11.5" x 0.5") looks like it would cost significantly more than the panel for enough epoxy. So replacement almost sounds cheaper if it gets fried, but I suppose there are the safety aspects too of not getting shocked. Any suggestions on inexpensive epoxy brands that would work?
 
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