Crazymex408
Supporting Member
Is it possible to convert this RO to a full RODI?
By adding DI canisters?
By adding DI canisters?
RO conversion to RODI
- Thread starter Crazymex408
- Start date
Yes. Just add a canister after the ro. But if you use it for drinking water. Tap the drinking water befor the di.
Crazymex408
Supporting Member
It was given to me in hopes of being able to use.
Crazymex408
Supporting Member
Can I use brs filter/kits? As well as upgrade 50gph to a higher 75+
I recently upgraded my entire system. I ended up going the BRS route with my system, but the same thing can be done without having to buy the complete system. It's just convenient because they have everything pre-installed and ready.
If I were you, I'd consider getting a setup with the triple DI canisters. Cation, Anion, and then Mixed Bed. It forces your system to deplete the most commonly charged particles with the cation resin first. Making your next two stages last much longer. So you'll likely change the first stage of DI 2 or 3 times before ever needing to change the second. And the last one usually longer that.
No matter which way you decide to go, replace every single filter in there and start with new ones! Plus add on some accessories to help you better track the filter life cycle. Not necessary, but definitely useful. Like a pressure gauge before the RO membrane to keep track of your differential. Triple TDS meter to monitor before each stage of DI.
Here's my concern with your system.
If I were you, I'd consider getting a setup with the triple DI canisters. Cation, Anion, and then Mixed Bed. It forces your system to deplete the most commonly charged particles with the cation resin first. Making your next two stages last much longer. So you'll likely change the first stage of DI 2 or 3 times before ever needing to change the second. And the last one usually longer that.
No matter which way you decide to go, replace every single filter in there and start with new ones! Plus add on some accessories to help you better track the filter life cycle. Not necessary, but definitely useful. Like a pressure gauge before the RO membrane to keep track of your differential. Triple TDS meter to monitor before each stage of DI.
Here's my concern with your system.
- You can't see your 1st stage filter. The one that will get gunked up the soonest and cause diminishing returns the longer you go without changing it out. It's also the cheapest to replace more often. Easy enough to just get in the habit to open it up every month and check it. Toss it when it starts getting too discolored. Minor inconvenience that it's not see through. You should be able to find clear replacement chambers btw.
- The two PreFilters I am assuming is regular ole activated charcoal filters. But it doesn't actually say that. What filters are in there? On top of the RO membrane, it says it's an order and taste filter. What's in it? Normally the charcoal pre-filters will take care of toxins as well as odor and taste.
- I personally don't think you will need that one on top of the RO
iCon
Supporting Member
For the cost of changing the filters and adding a membrane or two, it’s probably best to go with a new setup. The inline TDS meter and pressure gauge are must haves. I run a BRS 5-stage and would echo the comments above on being able to see your media.
Sediment Filter
2x carbon blocks
2x 75gpd membranes
DI
Sediment Filter
2x carbon blocks
2x 75gpd membranes
DI
Crazymex408
Supporting Member
I live in a condo so there is a closet storage room with faucet on my patio. It will need a booster. Not seeing is definitely my concern as well as having to add the tds and pressure gauge. Thanks everyone
MichaelB
Supporting Member
I'll send you a DM regarding this subject sir, I have similar questions about one I recently aquired but don't wanna risk high jacking this thread. Also following along here for related information shared here.
Crazymex408
Supporting Member
Coral reefer
Past President
I’d add a second membrane while you’re at it. Not sure I saw flow restricor mentioned when changing membrane
You need the proper restriction flow rate for the membrane you use
You need the proper restriction flow rate for the membrane you use
derek_SR
Supporting Member
I have a double membrane RODI (I guess I bought this originally because there's less waste water?).
Do you know if I have to use identical GPD rated membranes when replacing them? Not sure how it works if one membrane is 50GPD and the other is 150 GPD.
Coral reefer
Past President
You want them to be the same, although I haven’t tried what you are talking about before.
Each membrane is supposed to have 3-4 waste to product ratio, and that won’t work the way you are taking about. Would be better to go 2x100
Each membrane is supposed to have 3-4 waste to product ratio, and that won’t work the way you are taking about. Would be better to go 2x100
derek_SR
Supporting Member
Thanks I looked back into my email history and see that I bought the 150 gpd, so they are both 150gpd. Although that was 2 years ago so probably time to replace the 2nd membrane also.
On that note, what's your recommendation for how often to change these things? DI is easy with the color-chandges, but what about RO/Carbon/Sediment?
Coral reefer
Past President
Carbon blocks I use are Chlorplus 10 and rated for like 1500-2000 gal total pass through. Sediment by looking at it/pressure drop
Membranes depend on source water and how much you’ve made with them. Cheap enough that I do every year or two but I make a lot of water.
Membranes depend on source water and how much you’ve made with them. Cheap enough that I do every year or two but I make a lot of water.
You probably have two 75gpd membranes if it's a total of 150gpd.
Best way to test carbon is to get a chlorine free/total residual color changing packet. I'd be more than happy to provide members with a bunch of these next time I see you. You don't need to test it too often but it does depend on overall usage and length of time that the filters are kept unused. Chlorine residual will demolish RO membranes.
Going by gallons filtered can be a risk due to water sitting in the chambers and building biofilm which will create issues with overall filter performance.
I'd definitely recommend getting in the habit of flushing your filters, especially the RO membrane(s) once a week for a few minutes.
Keeping track or TDS prior to it hitting the DI unit will give you a good indicator of when your membrane is fried.
Sediment and Carbon filter pressure differential is your indicator that they are losing efficiency. Unfortunately, that won't tell you if the carbon is still filtering out chlorine.
100% NEED a flow restrictor
I didn't mention HOW to maintain the correct flow. There are different types for different membrane types. Thanks for mentioning it @Coral reefer
derek_SR
Supporting Member
So if I add a 2nd 150gpd membrane, for a total of two, I will have 300gpd?
I don’t actually care about the gpd, I just want the system to work correctly. But I did have a 150gpd membrane sitting around so I replaced one of the (apparently) 75gpd with it.
Not sure if I've ever shared with you all before, but I do this for a living. Except for drinking water and at a much larger scale. Believe it or not, I was more nervous about setting up my at home filtration than what I do everyday at work! LOL
I did so much research on the at-home filtration process and trying to figure out which way I wanted to go. I went cheap at first. That was a waste of money. It was perfectly fine at first...until it wasn't.
Most recently, for convenience and ease, I just purchased a pre-assembled unit and called it a day. I went with the 7 stage Pro Plus. I added an additional sediment filter. It is a much higher micron (50), that will catch big stuff and extend the life of the 1 micron "1st" stage of the BRS unit.
Could I have built something better? Absolutely! For cheaper? Maybe...maybe not. But probably.
At the end of the day, we are chasing an absolute ZERO TDS product water to mix with our salt. There are so many ways to get to that number. Some ways are better than others. And some ways will provide you with those results for a much longer period of time as well. Just depends on your goals and budget in my opinion.
My cheap ass filtration system I originally purchased, simply wasn't good enough for the crap water our utility company provides. It failed on me badly recently and I got really bad breakthrough on my filters. Giving me a horrible TDS of over 100!
I would like to help whomever I can to help avoid that happening to you. I got lazy, did not test my product water, and ended up using that 100+ TDS water in my ATO and a couple water changes. I could have caught it much earlier, but I took for granted how long my filters would last and how many gallons I had actually processed.
I rarely share much about my personal/professional life...
Here are some pics from a desal RO plant that I help run and maintain. The big white vessels are RO membranes. The blue pieces of equipment are high pressure pumps (600-800 psi) that help drive the salt water through the membranes.
These are the membranes that go into each vessel. 7 in each.
Squeaky clean vessels ready for new membranes!
I was feeling a little artistic at work.
By sharing this side of my wife, I by no means discount anybody else's experience with at-home filtration systems. If anything, I would default to folks with more years of wisdom with what they've done and how they maintain their system.
I recently decided to create my own SOP for my system, so that I can rely on having awesome water for many years to come. I would absolutely encourage you all to sit down, think it out, and make yourself a good SOP and maintenance plan. I've got my own horror story of water and have read about so many others. It's such an easy thing to avoid honestly.
I did so much research on the at-home filtration process and trying to figure out which way I wanted to go. I went cheap at first. That was a waste of money. It was perfectly fine at first...until it wasn't.
Most recently, for convenience and ease, I just purchased a pre-assembled unit and called it a day. I went with the 7 stage Pro Plus. I added an additional sediment filter. It is a much higher micron (50), that will catch big stuff and extend the life of the 1 micron "1st" stage of the BRS unit.
Could I have built something better? Absolutely! For cheaper? Maybe...maybe not. But probably.
At the end of the day, we are chasing an absolute ZERO TDS product water to mix with our salt. There are so many ways to get to that number. Some ways are better than others. And some ways will provide you with those results for a much longer period of time as well. Just depends on your goals and budget in my opinion.
My cheap ass filtration system I originally purchased, simply wasn't good enough for the crap water our utility company provides. It failed on me badly recently and I got really bad breakthrough on my filters. Giving me a horrible TDS of over 100!
I would like to help whomever I can to help avoid that happening to you. I got lazy, did not test my product water, and ended up using that 100+ TDS water in my ATO and a couple water changes. I could have caught it much earlier, but I took for granted how long my filters would last and how many gallons I had actually processed.
I rarely share much about my personal/professional life...
Here are some pics from a desal RO plant that I help run and maintain. The big white vessels are RO membranes. The blue pieces of equipment are high pressure pumps (600-800 psi) that help drive the salt water through the membranes.
These are the membranes that go into each vessel. 7 in each.
Squeaky clean vessels ready for new membranes!
I was feeling a little artistic at work.
By sharing this side of my wife, I by no means discount anybody else's experience with at-home filtration systems. If anything, I would default to folks with more years of wisdom with what they've done and how they maintain their system.
I recently decided to create my own SOP for my system, so that I can rely on having awesome water for many years to come. I would absolutely encourage you all to sit down, think it out, and make yourself a good SOP and maintenance plan. I've got my own horror story of water and have read about so many others. It's such an easy thing to avoid honestly.
So yes, you can go that route. But you need to ensure you have the proper flow and pressure requirements for a 150gpd membrane. If you don't, then you're wasting money on membranes and wasting water.
From my research, the dual 75gpd systems seem to have the least amount of waste. Highest efficiency at the right flow and pressure.
iCon
Supporting Member
Ding ding. Make sure the pressure available at your house can meet the requirements or you’ll need a booster pump which is another thing to tinker with. As for when to change filters - Watch your inline TDS meter and visual of the sediment filter. That’ll be the first to get dirty, buy I keep running with what’s there until hitting about 10-15 TDS, then start changing filters.