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Ryan’s 40 Breeder first reef tank

rdriggett

Supporting Member
I didn't silicone either side of my AIO box so there's a half inch gap that a fish can live in behind the filter up against the wall. Well that's where mr/ms perchlet is living. Hard to target feed an area I cant reach. SPS feeding tool will be here tomorrow so I can try more effectively.

I dosed a trial of Brightwell Nitrate and got it up to 3ppm 1h after dosing. I'm hoping Reef roids will up my phosphate to detectable levels. I'm still stirring and basting the sand daily to deal with cyano.
 

rdriggett

Supporting Member
If your nitrates and phosphates are that low, feed more. Easier than dosing.
I am feeding more. Switched from 1 small pinch of Reef Frenzy Nano 1x/day to 1 medium pinches of NLS Thera A+ 2x/day. I've done that for over a week and saw 0 nutrients. I haven't done a WC in 2 weeks due to the reef flux's instructions.

I don't want to have to dose nitrate/phosphate daily and I have no plans of doing so. I'm just trying to ditch cyano.
 

richiev

Supporting Member
I didn't silicone either side of my AIO box so there's a half inch gap that a fish can live in behind the filter up against the wall. Well that's where mr/ms perchlet is living. Hard to target feed an area I cant reach. SPS feeding tool will be here tomorrow so I can try more effectively.

I dosed a trial of Brightwell Nitrate and got it up to 3ppm 1h after dosing. I'm hoping Reef roids will up my phosphate to detectable levels. I'm still stirring and basting the sand daily to deal with cyano.

I'm not sure your starting value, but as with all the other dosing options be careful that you don't want params swinging. Bouncing nitrates from 0 to 3, and then bouncing phosphates also count as param swings. As is the bounce when you subsequently get an algae spike which then bottoms them out again.

The benefit to feeding is it'll decompose slower, so bounce slower, and the obvious one that it feeds your fish. Also little bitty pieces the corals, and copepods, and amphipods will eat.

I also have been testing dosing nitrates/phosphates in addition to feeding more. I couldn't get my phosphates to drop, despite controlled feeds, wet skimming, and a fuge. So I started dosing nitrates by putting some in my ATO water. I wasn't measuring, just adding a bit to see if I could get it detectable. I never did, and had the stuff for a phosphate reactor, so I just went that way.
 

rdriggett

Supporting Member
I'm not sure your starting value, but as with all the other dosing options be careful that you don't want params swinging. Bouncing nitrates from 0 to 3, and then bouncing phosphates also count as param swings. As is the bounce when you subsequently get an algae spike which then bottoms them out again.

The benefit to feeding is it'll decompose slower, so bounce slower, and the obvious one that it feeds your fish. Also little bitty pieces the corals, and copepods, and amphipods will eat.

I also have been testing dosing nitrates/phosphates in addition to feeding more. I couldn't get my phosphates to drop, despite controlled feeds, wet skimming, and a fuge. So I started dosing nitrates by putting some in my ATO water. I wasn't measuring, just adding a bit to see if I could get it detectable. I never did, and had the stuff for a phosphate reactor, so I just went that way.
I've been testing 0, 0 all week. I know that any param swinging it bad but I thought 3ppm wasn't too crazy. I will just overfeed with coral foods to raise nutrients.

what SPS feeding tool did you get?
 

richiev

Supporting Member
I've been testing 0, 0 all week. I know that any param swinging it bad but I thought 3ppm wasn't too crazy. I will just overfeed with coral foods to raise nutrients.



Sort of OT, and too late for you, but if anyone wants feeders these things are awesome:

Aquarium Choice Coral Feeder Long Syringe Tube 2021 Newest Version 58CM/22.83Inch Length Two Units(Patented Product) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083YSZMW3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VQBBNTG438W1FQXR3MXG

$20 for 2 of them. Suck a good amount of liquid and chunks, and are very easy to control. One of the most surprisingly great equipment purchases I've had, and so cheap. Far better than the giant basters I've had, and way easier to use than complicated things like the two little fishies Julian's thing (which I bought, setup, and then decided I will never use that thing).
 

Qwiv

Supporting Member
Sort of OT, and too late for you, but if anyone wants feeders these things are awesome:

Aquarium Choice Coral Feeder Long Syringe Tube 2021 Newest Version 58CM/22.83Inch Length Two Units(Patented Product) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083YSZMW3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VQBBNTG438W1FQXR3MXG

$20 for 2 of them. Suck a good amount of liquid and chunks, and are very easy to control. One of the most surprisingly great equipment purchases I've had, and so cheap. Far better than the giant basters I've had, and way easier to use than complicated things like the two little fishies Julian's thing (which I bought, setup, and then decided I will never use that thing).
I made a DIY version of that back in College and posted about it on Reefs.org. Was a bit more clunky looking then that one, but was pretty useful. Was like I or someone should make this thing. Glad someone did. I was too busy chasing girls and parties. How does theirs do with dealing with a chunky bit clogging the end, forcing you to up the pressure and shooting a load out? The second one I made put the plunger close to the end so it would have less air in it, which reduced the amount it compressed before pushing the clog out - like bleeding your break lines.
 

rdriggett

Supporting Member
I overfed some hikari coral food in an attempt to bump phosphates.

Alk (redsea pro): 0.6ML reagent used = 8.5dKH, 2-4ppm nitrate, 0ppm phosphate.
Spare batch of IORC thats been sitting for a few days = 10.5dKH using the same test.

Does this mean my corals consumed 2dKH over the course of two weeks? How is that possible, I have like no corals.
 

richiev

Supporting Member
I made a DIY version of that back in College and posted about it on Reefs.org. Was a bit more clunky looking then that one, but was pretty useful. Was like I or someone should make this thing. Glad someone did. I was too busy chasing girls and parties. How does theirs do with dealing with a chunky bit clogging the end, forcing you to up the pressure and shooting a load out? The second one I made put the plunger close to the end so it would have less air in it, which reduced the amount it compressed before pushing the clog out - like bleeding your break lines.

Last thread hijack ;), I don't attach the tip; I just use it with the pipe. I don't see any reason why I'd want the little tip. There's enough control that I can do little spurts of Reef Roids on individual mushrooms.

I use it for almost all feeds, usually mysis. Particularly I start my feeds by feeding my clowns from it directly against my anemone, trying to get them to keep brushing up to it and eventually get hosted.

Mysis, reef frenzy, reef Roids, picking up pellets from the water and feeding chalices them, ... Works great. Easy to clean.
 

richiev

Supporting Member
I overfed some hikari coral food in an attempt to bump phosphates.

Alk (redsea pro): 0.6ML reagent used = 8.5dKH, 2-4ppm nitrate, 0ppm phosphate.
Spare batch of IORC thats been sitting for a few days = 10.5dKH using the same test.

Does this mean my corals consumed 2dKH over the course of two weeks? How is that possible, I have like no corals.
Did both have the same salinity? That's the most likely answer; that the fresh batch evaporated some and has higher salinity.
 

rdriggett

Supporting Member
My 600GPH Amazon pump took forever to clear my IORC WCs. So I’m using a spare 3400GPH Jebao mlw-30. Seems to mix much better.
83694DDA-B085-433E-988C-26E63B35AA6D.jpeg
 

rdriggett

Supporting Member
Titration is annoying but Hannah checkers eat into new fish budget. Alk is 9.5 after a 15G WC to remove reef flux medication after my bryopsis melted.
 
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