Jestersix

Rygh's 250 gallon - rev.2

Having a problem with the rock though.
It seems to be LOADED with Nitrates.
I get a big spike, beyond what even an algae scrubber can handle.
I did soak the rock in an acid solution for a week, but seems like
I need to do that longer.
Looks like it may delay the project a bit.
 
If you keep the acid solution acid enough to do any good won't you just dissolve the rock? I got some small rocks I can sell you real cheap. Save you the time dissolving. :)

How about a soak in lanthanum chloride then some rinsing?
 
I soaked my rocks in bleach for a long time. The algae, coraline algae dissolves in like 3 days or so and youre left with clean white rock. I think acid is better. After a one week bleach soak, i change out the water and put new bleach in. After a week i let it sit in ro water. Yes ro not rodi. You can use rodi if u want.

When its just in the ro water i do my testing. I change the water for fresh ro water. I also add Lanthanum Chloride to help suck out the phosphates.

Rocks go in the tank when ammonia no2 and nitrates and phosphates read ZERO.

Use a powerhead and heater and this process will go by MUCH faster. You can even drop bacteria in your curing bin to make your rocks live.

I used a big cooler to cure my rocks. Be careful not to buy liverock that is supersaturated with nutrients or those that have been used in hospital tanks. They absorb the chemicals used in treatment which can contain copper, a fish, invert, and coral killer.

Takes time but this is absolutely necessary with decaying rock.
 
Yeah, using RO + various chemicals + heater + powerhead for a long soak is a good idea.
Time to get that going this weekend.

Yes, the Acid is just to clean up the surface layer a bit, and also open up the pores.

These rocks are a mixture of Marco Rock + a breakdown of a large reef tank.
So nothing horrible, but not exactly clean.

I might use lanthanum chloride, or just GFO + Carbon, since I have those on hand.
I don't see a big Phosphate spike anyway. Mostly just nitrates.
So I think it might be old dead algae on the rocks.

I thought about just tossing them in the pool.... :rolleyes:
(not really)
 
So as part of the big Rev-2 change is a full fishroom rebuild in the garage.
Time to turn a chaotic mess of pipes, wires, and tanks into something more reasonable.
Plus, I want it properly sealed and ventilated.
Pull fresh air in from outside, not exhaust from the car.
Send salty humid air outside, so it does not rust my tools.

Basically, section off a 26" x 64" x full height section of the garage, for a mini fish-room.
A quick drawing of the "room."

sump3.jpg
 
Here is a more detailed view of the new sump itself.
Large area for skimmer and other equipment.

QUESTION: Any thoughts on Acrylic thickness?
With all that bracing, 1/4" might even work.
To be absurdly over-designed, I could use 1/2." But it gets heavy.
Going to 3/8 might be best.
???

Not sure yet if I want to build it myself, or get Gen or someone to do it.
Not a trivial little thing to build.

sump3b.jpg
 
aqua-nut said:
Fish closet?
Click to expand...
Yep, pretty much. Might have a door, but more likely just roll-up plastic.

aqua-nut said:
It's best to have the QT away from the DT but you gotta do what you have space for!
Click to expand...
Why would that be a concern?

aqua-nut said:
It looks like an elevation of the sump. Why is the baffle so high? Won't that make a 18" deep skimmer zone?
Click to expand...
The idea there is simply for more water volume.
I am limited by the length and width, since I don't want to take up tons of garage space.
So making the sump a bit taller is the easy solution.
Skimmer will be on a small stand.

But, 100G sump for a 240G tank is a bit overkill. Perhaps a bit shorter might be better.

Yeah, good idea on using RC if I start leaning toward DIY on the sump build.
 
rygh said:
Yep, pretty much. Might have a door, but more likely just roll-up plastic.


Why would that be a concern?


The idea there is simply for more water volume.
I am limited by the length and width, since I don't want to take up tons of garage space.
So making the sump a bit taller is the easy solution.
Skimmer will be on a small stand.

But, 100G sump for a 240G tank is a bit overkill. Perhaps a bit shorter might be better.

Yeah, good idea on using RC if I start leaning toward DIY on the sump build.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I don't know how to do those spiffy split quotes. :eek: I'm sure you can figure out what parts go together! ;)

Too easy to cross contaminate from QT to sump/DT. In pro setups, QT is in different building or location. There's reports on Advanced Aquarist (IIRC) that the micro droplets from a tank can cross contaminate in the same room.

If the sump is that full how will it handle drain down from the BIG tank? And I don't want to hear any talk about check valves! :p:p
 
aqua-nut said:
Sorry, I don't know how to do those spiffy split quotes. :eek: I'm sure you can figure out what parts go together! ;)

Too easy to cross contaminate from QT to sump/DT. In pro setups, QT is in different building or location. There's reports on Advanced Aquarist (IIRC) that the micro droplets from a tank can cross contaminate in the same room.

If the sump is that full how will it handle drain down from the BIG tank? And I don't want to hear any talk about check valves! :p:p
Click to expand...

Interesting about the QT.
Well, I am no pro. I take a lot of risks as it is. I really just deal with Ich.
Anything else and I am out of luck.

---

I do need to calculate that flow-back again.
My returns are very close to the surface, so there is not that much flow-back before siphon breaks.
But I think I forgot to add in the pipes and the overflows.
Hmmm ..... really glad you mentioned that.
On the plus side, the fuge side can be any depth, adjusted later.
Only the skimer side is fixed height.
 
Update on sick Swallowtail Angel:

Still alive!
After treating with copper, she stopped eating, and was not moving much at all.
Prognosis was dismal. :eek:
So, I switched to the tank-transfer method.

Fish is MUCH happier now. Eating again, no sign of spots. :)

For me, tank-transfer means moving the fish from one 5 gallon bucket to a fresh one every 2 days.
Meanwhile, I am stripping the old QT, letting it dry for a few days, and getting it ready.
After 5 bucket-transfers, the fish is going back in QT tank for observation.

I think I will throw all the formaldahyde and copper out.
This always seems to happen when I try to medicate.
From now on: Always do bucket transfer, with second bucket containing Prazipro, then QT for observation.
 
Cool the angel is improving.

TT sure gets lots of play on RC. This is an Ich only thing, right?

Are you using Prazi at the same time as TT?

I'll keep my bottle of Cu but so far I've only been able to kill fish with it. :(
 
aqua-nut said:
Cool the angel is improving.

TT sure gets lots of play on RC. This is an Ich only thing, right?

Are you using Prazi at the same time as TT?

I'll keep my bottle of Cu but so far I've only been able to kill fish with it. :(
Click to expand...

Yes, tank-transfer only works on ich, since it relies on the special life cycle.
Well, technically it would work on parasites with a similar cycle.

Yes, I plan to treat using Prazi while doing tank transfer.
 
Glad she's doing good :) The tank transferring is a pain in the rear but its way more effective and safe then copper for ich. I would recommend a lid as we've had one fish jump from the stress :(
 
Here is how the epoxycrete rock turned out, with a few corals, and some .... well... cyano...
But it is really interesting to compare old and new.
oldrock.JPGnewrock.JPG
 
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