Our mission

Stupid question....

I'm on the no hole camp lol.

I have a brute trash can with two circulating pumps (mj1200 at bottom, koralia at middle) and another cheap sun sun to pump mixed NSW out.
 
I'm in the hole camp. That said, leaks HAVE been a challenge. Every time I open/close the ball valve, I have to be careful not to move the bulkhead connection. It was fine for about 3 years, but eventually started to become loose. It doesn't leak every time I get water, but it does happen every now and then. When it does, it becomes an ongoing battle of adjusting the bulkhead just enough to stop the leak until next time. Now the only way to fix it is to drain the entire tank, and tighten it up. For the platform, 2x4's, 1" plywood on top. My station is approx 20" off the ground, with clear plastic tubing attached for filling buckets. 50gal

Fortunately, it's in the garage.

Sidenote. I love how 'Stupid question' has become a great discussion on how to plumb water barrels.
 
iCon said:
I'm in the hole camp. That said, leaks HAVE been a challenge. Every time I open/close the ball valve, I have to be careful not to move the bulkhead connection. It was fine for about 3 years, but eventually started to become loose. It doesn't leak every time I get water, but it does happen every now and then. When it does, it becomes an ongoing battle of adjusting the bulkhead just enough to stop the leak until next time. Now the only way to fix it is to drain the entire tank, and tighten it up. For the platform, 2x4's, 1" plywood on top. My station is approx 20" off the ground, with clear plastic tubing attached for filling buckets. 50gal

Fortunately, it's in the garage.

Sidenote. I love how 'Stupid question' has become a great discussion on how to plumb water barrels.
Click to expand...

This is y I like uniseals for barrels better. Uniseals seal the edge of the hole and not the inside/outside surface of the hole. And barrels are seldom smooth surfaced. They usually have a semi rough finish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
iCon said:
Sidenote. I love how 'Stupid question' has become a great discussion on how to plumb water barrels.
Click to expand...

It makes me feel better. I thought it was a stupid question because I'm not all that handy and assumed everyone else in the world just had this knowledge. :)
 
Bruce Spiegelman said:
It makes me feel better. I thought it was a stupid question because I'm not all that handy and assumed everyone else in the world just had this knowledge. :)
Click to expand...

Back in school, waaaaay back, a teacher said that the most stupid question is the one that is not asked.

Use Teflon paste, local HD, Lowe's should have it.
 
IMG_0211.JPG
IMG_0212.JPG
Here you go @Bruce Spiegelman
 
FWIW, using a 'real water container'. I think my issue is that the bulkhead is too small for the hole that was drilled. Or, it is a very, very precise fit. Or, I open it and close it so violently that it eventually became loose/misaligned.

@Bruce Spiegelman Keep asking questions, especially in this hobby. Questions can save you from learning the hard way, which equals livestock, and $$$$. I was fortunate to have 3-4 mentors when I started, and happy to say a couple of them are still in the hobby!
 
I ordered an Ace Roto mold 50 gallon container, to use with the 35 gallon brute can I already have.

I'd assume the Ace Roto Mold container qualifies as a real water container? Now thinking to use bulkheads there, and the uniseal on the 35 gallon brute can.
 
Vincent,

If you add an elbow and pipe inside the barrels to reach downward close to bottom, u should be able to continue to pump all water out, right?

That way u dont have to lower the height of uniseal and redrill, I hope.

Vhuang168 said:
Depends on how soft the plastic is. If you can get the bulkhead to deform the plastic enough to get a good seal, then a bulkhead would be better.

My barrels are on the harder side and I had uniseals on hand so I used those.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
iCon said:
FWIW, using a 'real water container'. I think my issue is that the bulkhead is too small for the hole that was drilled. Or, it is a very, very precise fit. Or, I open it and close it so violently that it eventually became loose/misaligned.

@Bruce Spiegelman Keep asking questions, especially in this hobby. Questions can save you from learning the hard way, which equals livestock, and $$$$. I was fortunate to have 3-4 mentors when I started, and happy to say a couple of them are still in the hobby!
Click to expand...
If hoke is too big not much you can do to fix that...maybe try a schedule 80, they are a little bigger. Or, make the hole bigger and the correct size for a new larger bulkhead. Can't think of any other fixes than that for you though. Lemme know if you need a hand. Shouldn't be too hard
 
Last edited:
The pump works since the intake is lower than the bottom of the pipe. The problem is the spigot. It sits higher than the bottom of the pvc pipe so I can only draw water till the levels is the same as the spigot, then it stops.

I've tried putting a tubing to extend the spout longer and it helps but once I turn off the spigot, I don't always get a siphon back and it stops flowing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Interesting, I was planning on getting barrels. Perhaps I will fine sand the area for the bulkhead. But the bulkhead on my 44g Brute container has been solid for 6 years, with a lot of moving and leaning to drain all water out. I did tighten it really strong with a wrench when setting up. I have a smaller 20g Brute for my saltwater mixing with a MagDrive 9.5 pump. Planning on replacing with both RODI barrel and saltwater barrel raised, so I can just gravity drain into my sump for water changes.

P1000015-vi.jpg


IMG_8119.JPG
 
Coral reefer said:
If hoke is too big not much you can do to fix that...maybe try a schedule 80, they are a little bigger. Or, make the hole bigger and the correct size for a new larger bulkhead. Can't think of any other fixes than that for you though. Lemme know if you need a hand. Shouldn't be too hard
Click to expand...

Thanks! In all honesty, it's more a case of me being lazy. The whole problem is changing water. If I went back to no water changes, that would reduce the times I even needed RO water by 75%!
 
So what's a good economical pump to look for if I go that route? And can I leave one in the RO and the SW Barrels and how often do you clean?
 
Bruce Spiegelman said:
So what's a good economical pump to look for if I go that route? And can I leave one in the RO and the SW Barrels and how often do you clean?
Click to expand...

To mix salt/water, I used a Mag 18 I belive; it added some heat but the purpose was to have the sw ready, as close as possible in temperature as the tank.
 
iCon said:
Thanks! In all honesty, it's more a case of me being lazy. The whole problem is changing water. If I went back to no water changes, that would reduce the times I even needed RO water by 75%!
Click to expand...

I may have a Hayward HD bulkhead, let the RO container deplete, easy swap if it's the correct size. Regular ABS 1" are 45mm while the sch. 80 for 1" pipe is, if not mistaken, 48mm. New ball valve and ready to go.
 
xcaret said:
I may have a Hayward HD bulkhead, let the RO container deplete, easy swap if it's the correct size. Regular ABS 1" are 45mm while the sch. 80 for 1" pipe is, if not mistaken, 48mm. New ball valve and ready to go.
Click to expand...

Well, there is a "new" 50g tank to fill, so maybe now is a good time. Thanks for the offer, you know the water tower well so whatever you think is best works for me! Maybe new bulkhead or maybe just glue the existing one in place after tightening?
 
Need a couple 1" ball valves for my rodi and sw mixing station. Concerned because some brands of ball valves can be real pain to turn.

Recommendation where to buy?

Also thinking gate valve might be easier to turn though trade off is it takes more turns to fully open/close fully. Thought?

Will a true union ball valve be a good idea here? The pump will be inline and both in and out hoses are clear tubing secured with clamps that can be removed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top