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Tds in rodi water???

MichaelB

MichaelB

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Posted here as the place of subject matter/ discussion.

*Also posted to my journal

I took 2 new sterile specimen cups as a control ensuring i didn't contaminate or skew the results with residuals from somthing previously used. The mission was to test the tds in the rodi water at both aqua plus, and Neptunes aquatics.

Aqua plus read as 97
Neptunes read zero.

I was shocked by the finding as I've been using aqua plus rodi water the last 3 months do to it being closer to me and less than half the cost of Neptunes rodi water.

Before 3 months ago, I was getting all my water from Neptunes.

I've had the tds meter over a year, I just honestly never thought to test the water I was adding the last few months assuming rodi was the same.

A few members pointed out tds being a potential issue with my phosphates always being high.

Common sense tells me zero tds has to be better than 97 tds.

Can anyone give feed back about how bad is 97 tdos?

Could that be bad enough to cause my higher phosphates ?
 
I know San Jose water isn't great (mine comes out of the tap here at 12 in Oakland) but 97 sounds like pretty much tap with zero help (maybe their carbon filter is still removing the chloramine but they're not getting any rejection from their RO membrane). Tell them to change their filters.
 
Darkxerox said:
I know San Jose water isn't great (mine comes out of the tap here at 12 in Oakland) but 97 sounds like pretty much tap with zero help (maybe their carbon filter is still removing the chloramine but they're not getting any rejection from their RO membrane). Tell them to change their filters.
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I will pass it on, haven't seen the owner there in a while. I got 200 straight out the tap, so 97 must be pretty bad. Our water in santa clara is grey for first few mins before it clears.

Until they work it out, I definitely will stick to neptune.
 
I’m just going from memory here. When I was learning about tds and ro/di. If you make it at home. Those meters aren’t very accurate. They just give you an idea. They tell you to change the ro membrane when it reads 1-2 tds or you’ll start getting algae problems. I also remember that if you leave ro/di water in a container too long. It’s supposed to creep up is tds from stuff in the air.
But yeah. 97 is unacceptable.
 
Turkeysammich said:
I’m just going from memory here. When I was learning about tds and ro/di. If you make it at home. Those meters aren’t very accurate. They just give you an idea. They tell you to change the ro membrane when it reads 1-2 tds or you’ll start getting algae problems. I also remember that if you leave ro/di water in a container too long. It’s supposed to creep up is tds from stuff in the air.
But yeah. 97 is unacceptable.
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Yes, glad I found it out before things actually died, all my sps was looking wonderful a few weeks ago, I think it just took a little time for that bad water I was adding to build up to a critical point. Last week some started turning brown. I'll plan to do a 10 gallon water change tomorrow and the week after hopefully it helps them recover.
 
MichaelB said:
I will pass it on, haven't seen the owner there in a while. I got 200 straight out the tap, so 97 must be pretty bad. Our water in santa clara is grey for first few mins before it clears.

Until they work it out, I definitely will stick to neptune.
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Detectable TDS is bad. 97 is what I saw in SJ after my filter blocks and carbon, before membrane and resin.

For perspective, I live within spitting distance of a water treatment plant and my tap water is 40 with no filtration.
 
IOnceWasLegend said:
Detectable TDS is bad. 97 is what I saw in SJ after my filter blocks and carbon, before membrane and resin.

For perspective, I live within spitting distance of a water treatment plant and my tap water is 40 with no filtration.
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Thanks that really makes it plain. We only drink bottle water. Tap where we are has odd color and taste.
 
Srt4eric said:
I get over 400 straight from my tap...
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Gross.

Also @MichaelB really think it's time for you to get an RODI unit with a drinking water attachment. You'll save a lot of money and hassle in the long run, plus think of all the plastic you'll be saving from the landfill.

I got something like this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-st...ver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply-bundle.html

Then plumbed in a faucet and water tank:

www.bulkreefsupply.com

BRS Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water & Faucet Add-On System Instructions

How to install BRS drinking water and faucet add-on kit to your reverse osmosis water filtration system.
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com

I usually try to get things elsewhere but this is one area BRS really does an amazing job.
 
Darkxerox said:
Gross.

Also @MichaelB really think it's time for you to get an RODI unit with a drinking water attachment. You'll save a lot of money and hassle in the long run, plus think of all the plastic you'll be saving from the landfill.

I got something like this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-st...ver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply-bundle.html

Then plumbed in a faucet and water tank:

www.bulkreefsupply.com

BRS Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water & Faucet Add-On System Instructions

How to install BRS drinking water and faucet add-on kit to your reverse osmosis water filtration system.
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com

I usually try to get things elsewhere but this is one area BRS really does an amazing job.
Click to expand...
Nice set up, its now on my future one day wish list for sure.
 
You’d want to make sure your measurements are reliable, but TDS of 97 from something labeled RODI means probably there’s no functional RO or DI happening. And that there’s no one at the helm, stay away unless you like crashing.

My system reads my TDS before any filtration, after RO filters, after my first DI filter, and after the second DI filter (product water). My typical tds numbers are: 180, 7, 0, 0.

I change my filters when I get any measurable tds breakthrough from the first DI filter, or when it looks like the first is used up. Changing filters for me means dump the first DI filter, move second to first position, new second position DI, change my prefilter, and changing my carbon filters like described for the DI.
 
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eBay is the way to go for a ro/di unit. Just get the 6 stage and change the cartridges as needed. No need to buy that fancy Brs ones. They are all the same.
Or jump on a cheap used one. Your gonna change the cartridges anyways
 
robert4025 said:
I am pretty serious about the quality of RODI water.
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Thank you for the care and pride you take in water quality. It gives me great confidence as I neverhad any issues when I only got it from there.. I actually got water from your place earlier today., I mostly only started getting water from the other place cause it's 1 block away me. However for the previous two years I've gotten my water from neptune lol and tank was looking lovely.(lesson here was if its working I should have just stuck to it.)
 
MichaelB said:
Thank you for the care and pride you take in water quality. It gives me great confidence as I neverhad any issues when I only got it from there.. I actually got water from your place earlier today., I mostly only started getting water from the other place cause it's 1 block away me. However for the previous two years I've gotten my water from neptune lol and tank was looking lovely.(lesson here was if its working I should have just stuck to it.)
Click to expand...

No problem. Thank you for your continued support! I think I might have seen you today with someone filling up some water while I was plumbing the new tanks. My apologies for not recognizing you. I just got back from Bay To Breakers about hour before that so I was zoned out…lol.

Anyway, I know my RODI water is not the cheapest by any mean. However, quality does cost a little more. I’ll never want to compete with the next guy in term of price war, instead my focus has always been about giving the best quality, consistency, and affordability. Those are not the flavors of the months, folks. That’s everyday. Three things that are extremely difficult to achieve without the added cost.
 
Darkxerox said:
Gross.

Also @MichaelB really think it's time for you to get an RODI unit with a drinking water attachment. You'll save a lot of money and hassle in the long run, plus think of all the plastic you'll be saving from the landfill.

I got something like this: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-st...ver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply-bundle.html

Then plumbed in a faucet and water tank:

www.bulkreefsupply.com

BRS Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water & Faucet Add-On System Instructions

How to install BRS drinking water and faucet add-on kit to your reverse osmosis water filtration system.
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com

I usually try to get things elsewhere but this is one area BRS really does an amazing job.
Click to expand...

That’s what I used at home, along with the little dispenser faucet. No more bottles. Every few years or so, I just add a bit more air back to the bladder though.
 
MichaelB said:
I took 2 new sterile specimen cups as a control ensuring i didn't contaminate or skew the results with residuals from somthing previously used.
Click to expand...
One thing to note is you can have sterile dirt, so just because something is medically sterile doesn't always mean it doesn't have salts/minerals/other dirt in it. That is why when cleaning a med device, it gets a scrub, then an ultrasonic bath, then the sterilizer.
 
robert4025 said:
No problem. Thank you for your continued support! I think I might have seen you today with someone filling up some water while I was plumbing the new tanks. My apologies for not recognizing you. I just got back from Bay To Breakers about hour before that so I was zoned out…lol.

Anyway, I know my RODI water is not the cheapest by any mean. However, quality does cost a little more. I’ll never want to compete with the next guy in term of price war, instead my focus has always been about giving the best quality, consistency, and affordability. Those are not the flavors of the months, folks. That’s everyday. Three things that are extremely difficult to achieve without the added cost.
Click to expand...
Didn't mean to make it sound like a complaint (only talking less than $1 difference), it was a add on to it being closer, the results also shows why its probably cheaper.
 
H2OPlayar said:
One thing to note is you can have sterile dirt, so just because something is medically sterile doesn't always mean it doesn't have salts/minerals/other dirt in it. That is why when cleaning a med device, it gets a scrub, then an ultrasonic bath, then the sterilizer.
Click to expand...
Lol point taken, but heck feel free to sign pappers to check me into the nut house, if I ever get to a point of taking things that serious. scrubs, ultrasonic baths, uv sterilizing a plastic amazon sample cup, of course if you do the previous you would also have to glove up, put on paper scrubs, wear those little weird hair net booties over your shoes, and clean the room +air. JK
 
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