I don't have anything to say about poop, butt
The length of the lighting period can certainly be a factor in excess algae growth, as can the wavelengths emitted (especially warmer colors like 'red'), the intensity and the DLI (Daily Light Integral). The equatorial daylight length is 12 hrs. and some might think this is optimal. However, during the first and last hour of the daylight period (approximately) the light doesn't penetrate the water surface due the shallow angle of incidence (violet and blue wavelengths start to penetrate after ~15 degrees is achieved). So if one follows a natural equatorial cycle, then 10 hr. lighting cycle with around 2 to 2-1/2 hrs. of gradual ramp up and ramp down would be a decent approximation.
Now having said that, corals are very adaptable organisms and can do very well with a somewhat shorter or even a bit longer daylight periods. I noted this on my last trip to Palau where many of the best concentrations of LPS (Brains, Lobos, etc.) were in lagoons surrounded by the iconic limestone hillocks of the area. Many of these corals didn't receive direct light until 10 or 11 am and they were back in indirect light/shadow again around 2-3 pm. On the flip side, vast fields of acropora in open reef areas were subjected to the full 12 hour daylight period with peak lighting of around 6-7 hours.
Getting back to algae, herbivores are of special importance, both on the reef and in our tanks. Pico and nano tanks have a challenge in this regard due to a much smaller choice of organisms that are suitable for the small sizes. However, various hermit crabs and snails can help contain growth, but not if it becomes excessive due to other factors. Of equal importance is coverage of bare live rock areas with corals and the like. As well as being direct competitors with algae for nutrients, they deny space to would be algae settlers. Another often neglected piece is the productivity of the benthic micro organisms that perform various reduction processes. I use weekly gravel vacuuming as a method to remove some of the bacteria, which then causes the rest to reproduce, which consumes and sequesters nitrates and phosphates (as well as other nutrients). The process also serves the function of removing decaying material that can contribute to increasing in tank nutrients.
Using various 'natural' processes and regular 10% water changes means that GAC, GFO, skimmers, polypads, etc. are not necessary in my old nano and these methods are effective in keeping PO4 consistently undetectable and NO3 at 1 ppm or less (Salifert kits).
Happy reefing!