Cali Kid Corals

To quarantine fish, or not to quarantine... That is the question..

Do you quarantine new fish?

  • Total voters
    19
Coral reefer said:
Maybe I’m wrong here and it’s just cupramine where you don’t run uv with it, but I thought cooper and uv is a no no? Definitely the case with cupramine tho.
I’m not really a copper guy so I could be mistaken since cupramine is slightly different than just copper I believe.
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Due to my lack of QT experience I would definitely be the last person to know that one lol
 
@Meshmez for ich, you need a TTM of 28 days. Assuming you also do so in hyposalinity (1.009sg)?

If it's not in hypo, then TTM is less effective.

Rather than TTM, you can do QT tank for 28 days with biomedia like Marine pure and treat with something like Imaginatarium Bacterial and Parasite (i swear by these, obviously. I found them more effective than Melafix).
 
NanoCrazed said:
@Meshmez for ich, you need a TTM of 28 days. Assuming you also do so in hyposalinity (1.009sg)?

If it's not in hypo, then TTM is less effective.

Rather than TTM, you can do QT tank for 28 days with biomedia like Marine pure and treat with something like Imaginatarium Bacterial and Parasite (i swear by these, obviously. I found them more effective than Melafix).
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I dont see how ttm can Be more or less effective? Seems to me like It would work or not?
 
Coral reefer said:
I dont see how ttm can Be more or less effective? Seems to me like It would work or not?
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Difference comes to that hypo is more effective at minimizing ich and other parasite as more detrimental impact on those things...so you wind up carrying over less with each transfer.

Plus, I've read that hypo actually reduces stress on fish since body works less to achieve equilibrium balance internally....giving them more boost to fight whatever's there internally
 
NanoCrazed said:
@Meshmez for ich, you need a TTM of 28 days. Assuming you also do so in hyposalinity (1.009sg)?

If it's not in hypo, then TTM is less effective.

Rather than TTM, you can do QT tank for 28 days with biomedia like Marine pure and treat with something like Imaginatarium Bacterial and Parasite (i swear by these, obviously. I found them more effective than Melafix).
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This is 100% not tank transfer method. I'm not sure which process you're talking about. TTM is done in 13 days (I was wrong in the poll) and is very effective against Ich if done right. And a modified version is being proven to remove velvet too.
 
Meshmez said:
This is 100% not tank transfer method. I'm not sure which process you're talking about. TTM is done in 13 days (I was wrong in the poll) and is very effective against Ich if done right. And a modified version is being proven to remove velvet too.
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@Meshmez sorry... stand corrected. Was thinking of fallow period when typing earlier. TTM is 13 days.

But combining TTM with hyposalinity helps...esp for fish coming in fresh ship.
 
Meshmez said:
This is 100% not tank transfer method. I'm not sure which process you're talking about. TTM is done in 13 days (I was wrong in the poll) and is very effective against Ich if done right. And a modified version is being proven to remove velvet too.
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What’s the mod that works for velvet? Peroxide?

Have you used?!
 
bp123987 said:
What’s the mod that works for velvet? Peroxide?

Have you used?!
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I have luckily not needed to treat velvet, so I cant confirm it's efficacy.
Below is a quote from:
www.reef2reef.com

Tank Transfer Method

Tank Transfer Method What It Treats – Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) only. How To Treat – Tank transfer (TTM) is my favorite method for clearing a fish of Marine Ich, but the prevalence (and similarities) of Marine Velvet Disease can make TTM a risky gamble nowadays. To properly execute...
www.reef2reef.com www.reef2reef.com
Tank Transfer Method For Velvet

Below is a TTM schedule which will eliminate both Ich & velvet:

Day 1 - fish in tank
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 36 hours
Day 4 - 2nd transfer at 36 hours
Day 5 - 3rd transfer at 36 hours
Day 7 - 4th transfer at 36 hours
Day 10 - 5th transfer at 71 hours
Day 13 - 6th transfer at 71 hours

^^ No chemicals (such as H2O2) required.

Basis: Assuming worst case scenario, and velvet trophonts stop dropping off a fish immediately after going into a tank, you have around 48 hours until the tomonts begin releasing free swimmers (that reinfect the fish). So, a 36 hour transfer moves the fish away from the threat before this can happen. However, velvet trophonts can also remain on a fish for as long as 96 hours so that is why you have to do more than one transfer @ 36 hours.

The "standard" 72 hour transfer (or 71 hours for good measure) can resume only near the tail end, once the threat of velvet is gone and you are just concerned about the possibility of Ich (which can remain on the fish for a longer duration - 7 days)
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I answered no but I have never kept more than 4-6 fish at a time (always been nano / under 50g in display). If I had a larger system with a large fish list, the answer might be different? I have also never had a tank been overrun with fish parasites and or disease. I am sure that might change my tune as well.
 
Meshmez said:
My point is I'm pretty sure they died from quarantine, not disease. :confused:
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I am curious why you think that.
Being in a separate body of water from the main tank in itself is not going to kill a fish. It can't.

Now doing things wrong in quarantine can certainly kill a fish.

On the other hand, there are many things that could be wrong with a fish when you get it that doom it no
matter what you do. Cyanide poisoning being on of the most common.

My point is:
Keep trying to find out if you did some thing wrong.
But don't assume it is QT that killed the fish.
And you may never know.
 
I have a small tank with limited fish options. I currently have 2 CB clowns so I plan on only adding other Captive bred fish going forward because CB is good and as long as they don’t get placed in a shared tank they shouldn’t have any parasites, correct?
after having experienced one jumper, I’m waiting on my custom lid but plan on adding a CB mandarin when I get the lid.
Hopefully more fish are available CB by the time I go to a bigger tank, does anyone have one of the CB yellow tangs?
 
rygh said:
I am curious why you think that.
Being in a separate body of water from the main tank in itself is not going to kill a fish. It can't.

Now doing things wrong in quarantine can certainly kill a fish.

On the other hand, there are many things that could be wrong with a fish when you get it that doom it no
matter what you do. Cyanide poisoning being on of the most common.

My point is:
Keep trying to find out if you did some thing wrong.
But don't assume it is QT that killed the fish.
And you may never know.
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I assume stress. But I'm also wondering if my airpump is not big enough to oxygenate the water adequately, though it didn't seem to cause issues before. I just ordered a bigger pump.
 
max_nano said:
I have a small tank with limited fish options. I currently have 2 CB clowns so I plan on only adding other Captive bred fish going forward because CB is good and as long as they don’t get placed in a shared tank they shouldn’t have any parasites, correct?
after having experienced one jumper, I’m waiting on my custom lid but plan on adding a CB mandarin when I get the lid.
Hopefully more fish are available CB by the time I go to a bigger tank, does anyone have one of the CB yellow tangs?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure captive bred means no chance of parasites. I suppose if they are truly kept by themselves without shared water, but there's a lot of assumptions going on there.
 
Meshmez said:
I'm not sure captive bred means no chance of parasites. I suppose if they are truly kept by themselves without shared water, but there's a lot of assumptions going on there.
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Yeah, the CB clowns were from Neptune and were not kept separate so there was a risk there. im going to check before I order, but I imagine if I order direct that I should be able to get them delivered without being contaminated. At least I hope I can, that’s one of the nice benefits of CB.
 
I always run chelated copper for two weeks regardless of how the fish is looking. If I see stringy poo I also start medicating the food with metroplex.
 
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