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Vincent's 1st Big Tank

The recommended period for qting anything wet that is not a fish is the same as for a tank. At least 72days.

Cysts can stay dormant for at least 72 days if no viable host is around.


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Vhuang168 said:
The recommended period for qting anything wet that is not a fish is the same as for a tank. At least 72days.

Cysts can stay dormant for at least 72 days if no viable host is around.


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Is anyone doing this? That also means that if you put some coral into the tank, and start the 72 day countdown, if you place any new coral into the tank a couple weeks later, that restarts the countdown for the first piece of coral, right?


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That is correct. I do know of some (not local) that quarantines any wet additions for 72 days before adding to DT


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Jeez means if done correctly I can only receive coral 5-6x/year, unless I want to run multiple quarantine tanks.


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Gablami said:
If cysts hatch in 5-15 days, why would you need to qt for 1 month? I know there are other pests to qt for. I'm going to start QTing my corals, and was going to aim for 2-3 weeks. What are other people doing?


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It all depends on risk.
Hatching 5-15 is typical. In theory, up to 10 weeks+ is possible, but I think only if cold and so on.
So 2 weeks is ok, 3 is pretty good, 4 is really safe.
Plus, the odds of cysts on corals is not that high either. So odds get multiplied.

Side note on QT:
For me, I actually trickle tank water to QT tank, then back through a 5 micron and 1 micron filter.
Way less hassle than endless water changes, QT inhabitants are already perfectly acclimated,
and a 1 micron filter should stop most everything except for viruses. But not perfect of course.
In 1 month, the filters do not seem to clog up.
 
Vhuang168 said:
How are you plumbing in the filters? Through a canister?


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I have the QT above the sump. A small pump is pushing maybe 1 GPH into it.
There is a small overflow, and that is gravity fed into standard RODI type canisters and filters.
The QT is 26G, so about 100% turnover per day.
I do have a small powerhead in the QT for flow, along with heater and air-stone.

You have to keep the flow pretty low, or filters will clog.
I do have an emergency overflow, in case they clog, but that potentially also drains the ich into the main tank,
so I REALLY hope it never gets used.

@Flagg37 : A 1 micron filter is a standard sediment filter for rodi. Around $4.
 
Still in hold mode. The file fish I introduced to the 40b finally started clearing out the aiptasia. A lot of it is gone but there are some in areas it can't reach.

Added Sunset Anthias x3 and Bimac Anthias x5. Only left with the sunsets n 3 bimacs. Each has 1 male and 2 females.

I'm planning on moving most of the fish from the 40b into the 190 soon. Then I'll introduce the 10+ peppermints I have in a separate tank into the 40b. Hopefully they will take care of the rest of the aiptasia.

I'm still undecided on the btas and the Lightning Maroons.

I will be tearing down the IM16 soon. The purple LTA will have to go away and probably the DaVinci as well. And the 6 line too.

Anyone want blue cloves!?! (It's like asking if anyone wants an STD!). I'll have rocks totally covered in them soon!


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Gablami said:
Is anyone doing this? That also means that if you put some coral into the tank, and start the 72 day countdown, if you place any new coral into the tank a couple weeks later, that restarts the countdown for the first piece of coral, right?


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If the QT tank is fishless, then the countdown only pertains to the coral you added. So, after 72 days, you can pull out the coral even though you may have added another coral only a few weeks ago. But, you have to either let the coral sit in a bucket for 1-2 days or thoroughly rinse it, so that any cysts that may have hatched from the more recent coral get rinsed away.
 
Any updates Vincent? - I'm getting impatient to the beast set up! :)

Regarding the sunset anthias, are parvirostris? If so, these may have hassled the bimacs to death. I owned some about five years ago and they killed all my other anthias over a period of few months (in a 180G). They are very aggressive!
 
RobMcC said:
Any updates Vincent? - I'm getting impatient to the beast set up! :)

Regarding the sunset anthias, are parvirostris? If so, these may have hassled the bimacs to death. I owned some about five years ago and they killed all my other anthias over a period of few months (in a 180G). They are very aggressive!
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I don't keep
Other anthias, but mine are not aggressive at all, except to each other occasionally. I don't think it's recommended to keep different types of anthias together usually though is it?
 
Coral reefer said:
I don't keep
Other anthias, but mine are not aggressive at all, except to each other occasionally. I don't think it's recommended to keep different types of anthias together usually though is it?
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I don't think that is true at all. There are many very successful tanks with a large variety of anthias species. Regarding parvirostris, they are definitely one of the more aggressive anthias.

There is a good article by Matt Wandell on mixing randall's with other anthias on reefs.com, where he even mentions they can be mixed, expect for parvirositris as they are aggressive.
 
Other things have been keeping me busy. I'm also waiting on the tank to settle down, it's taking longer than my 40b which is to be expected I guess but it's starting to stabilize.

I'm getting really good growth on the encrusting montis and digitatas I have in there now. The Cali tort is starting to encrust and have good PE, even during the day which I never had in the 40b. Polyps only seem to come out at night for me in the 40b (only the Cali tort, I get pe on other acros).


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RobMcC said:
I don't think that is true at all. There are many very successful tanks with a large variety of anthias species. Regarding parvirostris, they are definitely one of the more aggressive anthias.

There is a good article by Matt Wandell on mixing randall's with other anthias on reefs.com, where he even mentions they can be mixed, expect for parvirositris as they are aggressive.
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I have had good success with mixing Anthias. I have mixed Fasciatus with Bartletts with no issues. I had them for several years. I currently have a small harem of Ignitus and a harem of Bartletts (although most of the females have turned male). Occasionally, one of the male Bartletts will peck on the Ignitus, but it is much less than Bartlett picking on each other.
 
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