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Hey Reefing Family. Do you ever wonder if your refractometer is correct ? Are you coming to the frag swap in a few weeks ? Bring your refractometer with you. Our club will bring 35ppm solution for you to calibrate your refractometer for FREE.. If you don’t know how to do it. A bar...

What ???? Erin is going to leave his cave.

Shoot. I can take it all. frag it all up and bring it to the swap. Then we can share with everyone If not. I can take the acro colony.

I would like a frag of this one. @MichaelB, @jstiltne, @Turkeysammich, have requested a frag. This post was automatically created by BARcode

Jump on it Erin. @Kensington Reefer

I can take them, frag them. And distribute at the swap if you like. Ack. My English teacher would not be happy. She failed me. Lol

You my friend will be giving that toilet a work out.

There’s a main thread now. Plus he added other test also. https://humble.fish/community/threads/bottled-bacteria-results-main-thread.20944/

Yes secondary drain is for noise control. I’m not familiar with that grease. Natural is better but that’s just a guess. Plus you only use an extremely small amount like thin thin. Just to form a seal. But honestly you probably could skip that part. Cuz your seal is still new.

Yes that’s it. They take an extremely long time to go bad. If it’s easy to remove. I would take it out. Clean all surfaces. Add a little. I mean little lubricant. I’ve used vasoline, cooking oil, etc. put it back together. When you tighten it. The gasket should bulge just a little. Like the side...

Gasket is a rubber O ring. It should be between the fitting and sump. When squeezed together with the fitting and nut on the other side. It forms a water tight seal.

I’m going to assume that it’s seeping between fitting and the sump ? Does it have a gasket there ? If yes. Options are. Change the gasket, remove gasket clean all surfaces, add a drop of lubricant ( anything will do) very little tho. Reinstall. Make sure to 1/8-1/4 turn once contact is...

I cant see the leak. But my eyes aren’t great these days. Can you circle it.

I’m not saying it can’t happen. Sumps usually don’t leak. Check the pipes and fittings.

I’ve been using the same Kalk for a few years. I bought a 50lbs of Mississippi lime. So I’ve been using that for years. But I remember about 10 years ago. I tried Kent ? Or brightwell. It was better. Like the ph was more potent in the mix.

In my past years I’ve put aquariums on all of the materials you’ve mentioned. Just talking about saltwater durability. Cuz that’s the real issue. Engineered and hardwood is the same. Both will deteriorate over time and need to be refinished. The hardwood can be cut more and deeper. Depending on...

Actually I misspoke. You could use epoxy but I would use a fiberglass mat with a matching fiberglass resin. And of course scuff with 80 grit first. That’s the best. It will smell for a bit. But that’s the permanent fix. If you need help. Hit me up.

I didn’t read thru the whole thread. I’ll tell you what I know about Kalk stirs as I’ve been using one for ever and a day. I’ve been using the same Kalk stir for 20 years on and off. Gray sea aquatics is advast before advast. That’s how long I’ve been using it. And ways. Here’s what I learned...

Push it back flat. On the back side. Best way. Thin sheet of fiberglass and epoxy. It will never break again. Sand with 80-120 grit for a tooth to bite on. Lazy way. Backside. Dremel small channel in crack. Super glue and baking soda. Build it out and wide. About a 1” width. Might break in...

@derek_SR. I built it for Derek. He wanted to use a plywood top to match this DT. It’s going to sit next to his DT. So he will have a matched set.