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Thanks to Richard for organizing and to everyone who showed off their tanks. I had a great time!

I was just an april fool an picked up 100lbs for my eventual upgrade.

ohh +1

I woke up this morning to some dead corals in my QT and elevated Ammonia levels. It looks like the bubble filter I had in there (seeded from my DT) is not keeping up. What do people use a effective filters for quarantine tanks? How do you seed them? Thanks, Erik

As far as I can tell the only difference between the light and standard Apex is the variable speed ports. Basically they can output a voltage from 0-10V. Useful for controlling LED drivers, tunze powerheads, or anything that takes a voltage input. If you think you'll never use them, you can...

Thanks. I'm, of course, already thinking of what I'm going to do differently when upgrading. Everything seems to be doing great. I have my flow set up so that there are two powerheads at the top creating fast turbulent flow leaving the bottom with only moderate flow.

Just had a close call on this one. I woke up today to find the heater in my QT suck on and my the water at 89F!!!! I floated the frag in my sump then put it on my frag rack in my main tank. Looks a little worse for wear but the polyps are out. Phew! Glad I caught that. Gonna throw out...

It was great seeing you tank on Tuesday. Thanks for the Mystery Monti frag!

I'm looking for some advice on how to mount this monti I got from the swap. It was described on the label as plating/scrolling. Which part should I attach? Looking at it there is no obvious "base" which to attach it to the rock. Should I tilt it or leave it flat? Should I mount...

Yeah, go for it.

I made up a 1 page cheat sheet for the Salifert Alk, Ca, Mg, and Phosphate tests to pin to the wall where I do my tests. Here's a link to it for anyone that might find it useful. http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AubCbEzWunbkdFNsbEI1V2tLaDhmVEEtVTNKUmozVXc&hl=en

I drilled my probe holder for a snug fit (can't remember the size) but wish I'd oversized. The 2 other probes that I've tried have been slightly larger than the first and they tend to bind in the holes. If I were to do it again, I would go with a design like...

My tank's pretty new (4 months) but the frags from the swap (mostly SPS.. acro, birdsnest, montis) are rocking in it. Water quality is great. (tank thread: http://www.bareefers.org/home/node/9273). If you don't mind being my first (DBTC), I'll take try with luck #7.

Great advice. I think for a variety of reasons, this will not happen in this case. I'll be sure to keep attune if the wind seems likely to change there.

Not yet sure how everything will need to be structured. We might have our own people here for that kind of stuff or whomever were working with on install and maintenance might have their own people. -Erik

Good point on the scuba. Probably a good idea do design the tank dimensions so that it's not necessary. Would you also recommend a 300g container for RO/DI water? Thanks, I'll check them out.

Thanks of all the advice. I'm going to contact Aquatic Gallery and Aquarium Showroom and see what the ballpark for service would be.

Hence the discussion of finding the right captain.

The big win with efficiency for 220 is that it halves the current needed. Since resistance loss (the amount of voltage you lose through your wires) is proportional to current, you lose less with 220. Thanks. Jeremy?

Oh yeah. Don't know why I didn't list that. Though pulling power seems like a walk in the park compared to reenforcing a floor. How many 20A circuits should I spec? I assume having a few 220V circuits is good as well incase something like a monster chiller is needed. Yeah, I figured...