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60 Gal Cube Restart

Qwiv

Qwiv

Supporting Member
BARcard
Current Tank Spec:
CadLights 60 Gal Cube - Starfire Glass from the Mid 2000s
Neptune Sky - Replaced AI Sol due to Aquascape Shadowing
Current Neptune Apex EL 2016 - Replaces Classic as a screwed up the Firmware
Trigger TRITON20C-v2 - Replaced my original Sump for more volume and deeper skimmer section.
Bubble King Mini 160 - Replaced Original Bubble Magnus for sound mostly. Skimmer is to big and pending a temp Skimmer until my Bioload grows
Dosing - Kalk For Now - Alk, CA, Mg Adjusted as needed.
WC - Auto - Volume still TBD.
ATO - Mix of ATK and DIY.
PNS Bacteria Chamber with Light (until overgrown my CA - Just for fun)
AI Fuge over Sump Refugium - No cheato yet. Growing other Macros for Tang Food.
Since SDC 3.0 return and 3 MP10s with WXM control for Circulation



Hey BAR community. Decided to restart my 60 Gal Cube that was taken down during my move to Belmont some 10 years ago! I never set it up again because well, life got in the way, but I'm back now given my home office needed something besides maker scraps all over.

Here is a picture of my Cycling tank overflowing with frags :) and my Fish QT/Hospital tank that I have set up on an antique hospital cart (will clean up build after first drain - I know it is a mess!). Invert QT tank is still under construction as I am making a "drawer" to be able to pull the tank out of a shelving unit for service as I don't have the room above the rim to service. Its only 10 gal AIO ands its on some 300# slides, so it will be fine. Glued it up this weekend and will move some LR/water over to it from the cycling DT in the coming days. Already at 0 Ammonia/Nitrite with Nitrate above test kit. Made my Aquascape a while ago using my old dry LR and been cycling in a Brute.

Was really interested to see what has come of the hobbit in the last 10 years and surprised to see the basics are all the same. Looks like BRS bought everyone even our local Neptune! The tech gadgets and testing with ICP etc. have evolved but the general hobby husbandry seams the same as to what I was doing before except more reefers look to be successful now than before. Awesome! New hot corals and morphs of course! Only new changes I will be implementing is going to try "All For Reef" 1-part after I run the tank for a while on Kalk and get the levels dialed in. Hoping to handle trace and Mg this way, but we shall see. Let me know if anyone has experience on this. Purchased the new dry formula to test out. Also added PNS bacteria in the cycle and have a light over some media in low flow areas reverse cycle to use for PO4/Nitrate. Who know if it helps, but the area will grow pods if nothing else, was wasted space anyways and the light looks cool.

Really impressed with the development of the BAR website! You finally got DBTC/Barcode implemented (Awesome job). Was funny to see I earned a bunch of awards for posting 10+ years ago when I logged in and the server remembered me. Thank you for not purging all the accounts.

Anyways, I'll likely be reaching out for a few starters frags/breeding CUC soon as the tanks chemistry comes along and hope to cross paths with people soon. Might hit the next swap for a meet/greet. For current coral hunt - look for bright neon green nepthea, Tyree neon green toadstool and purple pulsing Xenia. Would be nice if someone actually had a frag of these I gave them to be full circle but a lot of the names/faces on the board have gone silent like myself. Those were my favorite easy corals and grew to insane sizes in my old 240gal with dozens of frags going out to the community. Would like to bring those back home again if at all possible. If anyone has a RBTA/Torch from me as well, would love to restock that when the time comes.

Ended up with some extra kit on the restart and will post more as I figure out what I need and don't. I have my old Fiji rock in dry bins. Looks like that is unobtainium now! Might upcycle that into some cool scape pieces for the community as it was fun building my new scape in the 60, smashing my old rock to bits for reassembly.

I ave an old Apex (classic) that worked when I plugged it in. Then read I could upgrade it and get the new Fusion features. Excited I hit upgrade and bricked the dang thing. Yep, upgraded over WiFi like a noob. I only have Macs and MS Surface computers, so I am unable to do any of the fixes because the old software won't run correctly on my computers. I decided to just get a new Apex for the Power Monitoring feature (that isn't working correctly!) so I have a head unit free to anyone who could restore and use it (Keeping the energy bar) and hugs if you could load the last firmware on my ReefKeepers (RIP). They are running the two QT tanks just fine as is, but one is FW 1.x and the other FW 2.x which is annoying from a programming aspect. Also can't get my WXM module to connect to my MP10s correctly on the new Apex (another awesome discontinued product). Any help on the tech side would be so awesome!

I drilled the back of my tank so I could use the existing holes for a Herbie overflow, so my HOB refugium can't be installed behind the tank anymore. It is the 2' CPR model and in good shape. (Check BRS - Large AquaFuge2 Hang on Back Refugium) The original light was trashed a while ago as it was terrible, but I still have the brackets so you could add ReefBrite strips, etc over it like the current models. $100 in cash/frags seams like a good deal or tech support for the issues above.

Anyways, sorry for the long post if you have read this far. More exciting pictures soon (hopefully).

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You guys still make this for members? Think it expires? Looks to be reading spot on with my Refractometer, but they could have both lost calibration I parallel I guess (unlikely).
 
Hi welcome back.
I had the classic apex brick on me before, you can try this to reinstall it. It worked for me, this is the official apex email reply. Hope it helps.


You will need a Windows Computer to try the steps below.

To do this you'll need our latest firmware. Download that first using the link below.


Follow this procedure (Windows Only):
  1. Power OFF your Apex by unplugging power from the wall outlet (keep unplugged until setp 9)
  2. Restart your computer in Windows safe mode with networking or turn off any virus and firewall software
  3. Disable your wireless card
  4. Ensure you connect your computer to your internet through hardwired cable connection
  5. Open the Firmware Update Program
  6. In the 'Network address' field put something similar to your default gateway (router) IP address. Click here for Help
    1. For example, if you default gateway is 192.168.1.1 then make the network address 192.168.1.88
  7. Click Update Firmware
  8. After failed attempt 1 you should see an ARP Entry.
  9. Plug your Apex back into wall outlet. (You might need to power cycle the Apex more then once for this to work)
    1. Apex and computer should make a handshake at this time, if not try to power cycle your base unit again
    2. You should see the Firmware Loading from 0 - 100%
  10. Once that's complete all the status lights will stop blinking and return to Solid Green.
  11. Now we will update the webpages. Click the 'Magnifying Glass Button' and select the APEX listed and press OK.
  12. Update the web pages next.
If you are unable to accomplish the firmware update, then there are further trouble shooting options. Please let me know how it goes.
 
PeetaJai said:
Hi welcome back.
I had the classic apex brick on me before, you can try this to reinstall it. It worked for me, this is the official apex email reply. Hope it helps.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the message.

The problem isn't I have not found ways to do it, it is that none of our Windows machines will do any of this. My better half's laptop is locked down by her company and I have a Surface tablet that needs a USB adapter to convert to Ethernet, which I think kills the start in Safe Mode - Ethernet connection. My Windows skills are like -24% as I have used Macs my whole life. I even tried running the windows software on my Mac laptop, but it lacks an Ethernet port as well. My only other option besides getting a PC just to fix this thing is install Windows on a older Mac desktop with an Ethernet port, but given I just bought a new Apex and wasted more of my limited brain cells on this originally, I would rather the unit go to someone who might be able to resurrect it if they choose to put in the effort. I am sure someone could also use a spare for their system.

I miss the old Apex form factor. The new Apex is bulky and the colors they chose is terrible. I could mount the old apex to the back of the stand with plenty room between tank/wall. Not with the new one. And who has a Silver and Orange color scheme on their tank? Also really bummed my Black display took a dive. The cable is pretty messed up so I might try opening it up and wiring in a new cable thinking the power to the display is just shorted somewhere. Will put MultiMeter on it, but I don't know if USB has internal resistance values.

Anyone have a display I can borrow? Looks like I need it to update the Firmware on my MP10s to work with the WXM module and it must be done with the Display - Not the Apex web interface. If I update with other means via EcoTech, I end up updating the pumps to a Firmware that is too new and does not support the discontinued WXM module. Getting the MP10s working is the last bit of configuration I need to do after finally getting everything else working.
 
I got an Apex display you can borrow but is in SF. Will it be too far for you? Or I can bring it to you when I travel south. If you are not in a hurry that is.
 
That is very nice of you. Just opened the case and can see a resistor discolored. It is a multilayered board and beyond my ability to replace. I think a short in the wire fried it as that skinny wire is pretty delicate and covered in damage. It's almost 15 years old. Good note is I can probably swap the black case for the silver one super easy assuming the internals are still the same.

Let me do some more research and I'll PM you.
 
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Got a little leather added in with some live sand and it seams to be doing good for the last 3 days. Picked up 2 gladiator clowns and they are hangin in QT for a while. Installed the lights over the invert QT and sealed the tray so that should have water in it soon too. Wasn’t expecting to get a coral and had to turn the lights on in the DT faster then I wanted too. I’ll mount the coral on a rock and get it up as high as possible so I can put the lights at the absolute minimum to hold Algea back as long as possible. Sorry the colors look so weird. Need to figure out how to set the LEDs to not look so strange.
 
Found me some sweet sweet Coraline Algae growth this morning while watching some hermits kill each other with a flash light. Could not see it with the Blue lights on. Can see it with the white lights on if you look. Yah, its only a little, but it's a milestone none the less! Seeded the tank 4/8/22. Not bad for 2 weeks!
 
Got the lights all sorted on the DT tank and the QT tank with the Clubs PAR meter (cheers for that). Ended up swapping my AI SOL Blue for a Neptune Sky. Had the AI SOL Blue mounted almost 2' above the tank and with all the large overhangs in my rock (some over 12") that shadowing was just too much. Have the Sky mounted at 7.5" and have much better coverage. I can get 30-50 par any place I could reach with Forceps to put a Zoo frag now. 150 at the sand, 200-350 top of the rock-work all at 31% Grow Color, 56% Phx14, 45% AB+, 35% N. Sky Default, 43% Blue+ and 40% my Custom Setting. Pretty happy with the Sky other then there is actually to much spread for a 24x24. BRS recommended 9". My desk was blue at that height so I lowered it to 7'5".

I took it the Sky apart and all the bad reviews of how the light is made is not to be 100% believed with the only valid complaint being the lack of independent color control. I can't get the Royal Blues to be on 100% like the Reef Brite Strips in the background like I can with the Radion (Couldn't with the SOL either), but it is pretty darn close, close enough for me. Would like independent red channel for night view/fish snatching, but I have a flash light. It is lite so I can hang it from my existing arms, there is a good amount of shimmer for me, no disco balls and I can see in every nook and cranny of the rock now, where it was all shadows before. Anemone even decided the 2 rock piles I build specifically for the anemone was to bright (accidentally had lights on 100% in demo mode) and moved to a shady location. Hoping he changes his mind, but I can deal with this location as well. I may coat the circuit board in the light with MG Chemicals 419D Acrylic Conformal Coating. I put this stuff on a lot of the projects I make for other things, but little hesitant to put it on a $900 light I didn't build myself. Any electrical engineers got advise on that besides avoid painting Mosfets, Heat Sinks..?

Anemone is QT'ing the DT as the Fish and Coral tanks are full. Time for Anemone QT is recommended @ 15 days (the snails/crabs still need more time then that) so it should not set back the timeline to add the first fish who are just waiting on the DT fallow period from adding CUC. They got their last meds today actually. Added the anemone in before corals/fish to give it the best change of settling into a semi-permanent home.

Tank is also covered in PODS with no predators. Looks like an ant infestation in there.

Coraline is more evident now. You can see a little almost everywhere now.

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Sky light is much easier to photograph. This snap is strait out of iPhone with no edits.
 
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Sump swapped over. Haven’t cleaned up cable clutter. Just got it in, replumbed and running. Skimmer is making decent foam, but can’t push it into collection cup as it is very oversized right now. Will replace with a smaller temp skimmer. Gained about 10 gal. system volume with the fuge baffle set to its lowest point. Will probably get another 2-5 gal when I move all the baffles up.

Also got my first fish in. Not posing for photos yet.
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It has one. Light is just mounted too high and full of reflected light. It's on a rail to lower it. I just had it all the way up to get sump in and do wire management.
 
Getting a new sump. The one I received has some issues. Top was not properly welded together so top brace failed in some areas. Separated before seeing water. Tank also came with used "bulkheads" so it was suspect when I got it. Vendor replaced bulkheads with the wrong size at first, but I just plumbed everything without them. Don't know when a replacement is coming, but it is functioning, just bowing a little. Should be ok short term as it is only a little over 1/2 full.

Added a ORA Purple Dottyback and Molly Miller Blenny (Scartella cristata) to the QT holding tank. Blenny eats like a pig. He loves Nori, so hoping he eats algae off the rocks. No algae in the tank, but showing grazing behavior. Hoping he is a more appropriate "Algae Blenny" for a small 60 gal.
 
Da_Neefer said:
Dottybacks are very often super aggressive. Add to your tank last kind of fish as they get super territorial.
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I know. My rock work has a few distinct homes for that reason. Hard to see them in photos. Was a requirement of the "she gets to pick fish too!" and her favorite color is pink/purple so... :rolleyes:

Really only going captive fish as I'm not a fish collector and want to help breeders because we are going to need them soon, so fingers crossed. Only worried about a rainford goby which was suppose to be in this group of stocking but had to flex. Will hopefully have the rainford in the next round assuming I can get one with @richiev in a biota order next month :). I think the other fish planned will be ok. Have a Tomi tang in another QT tank (made a 60 gallon exception to a captive yellow) and my sump is a good holding area for the purple beast as well assuming it doesn't bust a seam.

Oh, She does really wants Mandarins though (of corse) so I might just have to get rid of her instead :cool: I do have an idea for a different BBS feeder then what others are using and should be easier to use and actually look decent in a tank, possible in tank hatch as well. Have to whip out the 3d printer and get one in a few guys hands using the other design out there to test.
 
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Qwiv said:
Will hopefully have the rainford in the next round assuming I can get one with @richiev in a biota order next month :)
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Rainforf's are cool! I received one from Biota last Friday... hoping it comes out and shows itself off soon. I have not seen it since dropping it in the tank but it came in at about an 1" and has a lot of rock holes it could be hiding in.

Your rock work looks full of nice holes and swim-throughs.
 
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