iani
Supporting Member
With the return going to the center with a T.
A tank fit for a Hobbit (planning)
- Thread starter svreef
- Start date
I've started a new thread here: https://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/our-hobbit-house.28952/ for any questions about the house. I wanna talk tank here 
The problem with that is still lower pressure at the end of the pipe and higher at the start.
Not with a check valve...Don't do that. A return pump failure would end up pumping water from DT to sump.
Not going for any specific kind of flow - just sufficient without power heads. The nozzles would be pointed slightly down because otherwise they would shoot water above the surface. I expect the pipe to be partly out of the water so it can be high enough to be hidden.
Another set on the opposite side would be awesome for flow, but I think it would be too visible
RandyC
Supporting Member
I wouldn’t rely on that. I’d make any pump you want to use for flow to be closed loop. That way if you use a DC you can change the flow patterns without concern for the return pump. And I’d try to pull from the water from bottom of tank and return to the top (think bulkhead in side or bottom if you don’t want to have to hide a pipe in the tank). Also, if you use UV sterilizers, this would be a good place to put them.
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Note that there is no “back of the tank”. This will be a peninsula style tank, visible from both rooms.
The house has an Energy Recovering Ventilation system. Brings in fresh air but maintains temperature and normalizes humidity. It can be set to run at regular intervals or triggered by high humidity
Ibn
Guest
With this tank being a peninsula, I'd reconsider your original plan (of not running powerheads). I'd consider running 2 pumps, one of each side running parallel to each other, as in your original plan, with the RFGs. Then consider a couple of decent size powerheads at the end of the tank, where there's less flow. Route a couple of holes at the end of your stand so that you can sneak power up to the powerheads.
Other alternative, or in conjunction with your original plan, is to drill holes at the bottom of the tank to feed pipes up for a closed loop system. Just make sure that you have plenty of unions and valves to regulate the flow or when you need to cut flow to the pump for servicing/replacement.
Other alternative, or in conjunction with your original plan, is to drill holes at the bottom of the tank to feed pipes up for a closed loop system. Just make sure that you have plenty of unions and valves to regulate the flow or when you need to cut flow to the pump for servicing/replacement.
RandyC
Supporting Member
that sounds like a pain for maintenance
I’m thinking the pump will be in a neat little shelf below the low-water level. Visible from the side and back and very accessible.
This is all very hard to explain, so I’m gonna cook up some diagrams.
rygh
Guest
I am confused. Do you care about looks from the back, or not? Peninsula?
Pumps in the water is probably a good plan. Less noise, and most DC pumps need that anyway for heat dissipation.
Suggest doing some calculations on energy usage and flow rates.
Unless it is really set up as a gyre, closed loop is a big energy hog.
Note that you can technically send the flow from a powehead through a large pipe.
Not nearly enough pressure for pipe / holes like you plan.
But you might be able to put powerheads in one spot, in your shelf-thing, and direct water somewhere else.
Pumps in the water is probably a good plan. Less noise, and most DC pumps need that anyway for heat dissipation.
Suggest doing some calculations on energy usage and flow rates.
Unless it is really set up as a gyre, closed loop is a big energy hog.
Note that you can technically send the flow from a powehead through a large pipe.
Not nearly enough pressure for pipe / holes like you plan.
But you might be able to put powerheads in one spot, in your shelf-thing, and direct water somewhere else.