Neptune Aquatics

Alex’s Red Sea Reefer Nano (28-gallon)

Alexander1312 said:
10 Jan 2025 - FM ICP Total Results
This is the first ICP after the reboot, i.e., new live rocks + rocks from my IM 150, new sand, live rubble from aquabiomics etc. It is so much harder to adjust the traces as the amounts for 22 gallons are so small I need to use a pipette a lot to dose properly, which is annoying. Also, getting the amounts long term right is an even bigger challenge as the room for error is very small when determining monthly dosing amounts.
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Thanks for sharing this, my Lithium is always sky high (with Triton ICP). I assume it's something in my salt mix (Red Sea blue). I'm assuming you're using FM salt? High lithium doesn't seem to be harmful, so I'm not too worried, just curious.

I guess FM still hasn't fixed the "Total Phosphate : Nitrate" typo (should be Nitrate : Phosphate)?
 
PizzaOven said:
Thanks for sharing this, my Lithium is always sky high (with Triton ICP). I assume it's something in my salt mix (Red Sea blue). I'm assuming you're using FM salt? High lithium doesn't seem to be harmful, so I'm not too worried, just curious.

I guess FM still hasn't fixed the "Total Phosphate : Nitrate" typo (should be Nitrate : Phosphate)?
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This is what FM says about Lithium. High values do not seem to be influenced by salt, only low values when buying a cheap salt.

Lithium is a microelement and is occasionally found in increased quantities in the aquarium. Especially the use of cement, but also the use of special magnesium solutions for algae control, leads to significantly increased measured values. Values above 500 µg/l should be reduced by partial water changes and reduction of sources.

How high is your lithium?

On the typo. This has come up many months ago and there was a response to that and why they do not fix that. Cannot remember why but I am curious myself now and will ask.
 
Alexander1312 said:
How high is your lithium?
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My last test was 1050 ug/l (over a year ago). I just mailed out a new one, but I expect it to be high like the last two measurements.

Alexander1312 said:
Lithium is a microelement and is occasionally found in increased quantities in the aquarium. Especially the use of cement, but also the use of special magnesium solutions for algae control, leads to significantly increased measured values. Values above 500 µg/l should be reduced by partial water changes and reduction of sources.
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Interesting, I wonder if it is coming from my Magnesium supplement. I'm tempted to send out a sample of freshly mixed SW to rule out my salt mix.
 
The high lithium values have been mentioned by ICP vendors as an American specific trend. Never had it show up on mine, but I have heard the MgCl contaminant comment before in the past. Some blamed IO salt. Either way it isn't toxic at the levels we see.
 
PizzaOven said:
My last test was 1050 ug/l (over a year ago). I just mailed out a new one, but I expect it to be high like the last two measurements.


Interesting, I wonder if it is coming from my Magnesium supplement. I'm tempted to send out a sample of freshly mixed SW to rule out my salt mix.
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Fauna normally sets reasonably high upper limits since folks in Europe, who are mostly reading this, are getting instantly nervous when the parameters are out of range by just 1 ug/l. Being double what they are considering the max recommended level above the desired range would worry me, despite this being still a tiny quantity ug/l.

From what I read is that lithium levels are often too low (vs too high) if cheaper salt are being used. The reason is that many cheaper salts contain standard trace mixes which do not contain all elements found in NSW since many elements in NSW are not proven/researched enough to be actually needed for coral health and growth. Lithium is one of them.
 
Alexander1312 said:
Fauna normally sets reasonably high upper limits since folks in Europe, who are mostly reading this, are getting instantly nervous when the parameters are out of range by just 1 ug/l. Being double what they are considering the max recommended level above the desired range would worry me, despite this being still a tiny quantity ug/l.

From what I read is that lithium levels are often too low (vs too high) if cheaper salt are being used. The reason is that many cheaper salts contain standard trace mixes which do not contain all elements found in NSW since many elements in NSW are not proven/researched enough to be actually needed for coral health and growth. Lithium is one of them.
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What do you use for Mg supplement?
 
Darkxerox said:
The high lithium values have been mentioned by ICP vendors as an American specific trend. Never had it show up on mine, but I have heard the MgCl contaminant comment before in the past. Some blamed IO salt. Either way it isn't toxic at the levels we see.
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Same question, what brand do you use for Mg supplement? Good to know it's harmless at these concentrations, I'd still prefer to have it closer to NSW if I have the choice.
 
PizzaOven said:
Same question, what brand do you use for Mg supplement? Good to know it's harmless at these concentrations, I'd still prefer to have it closer to NSW if I have the choice.
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I used to use store brand epsom salts mixed at a 5:3 ratio with a 50 lb bag of sidewalk de-icing MgCl I got in the early 2000s. It was massively hygroscopic and probably had impurities, but worked great and mixed pretty clean. I've been using Brightwell Mg powder I got on clearance from Kenny really cheap lately. Only downside is that it creates an exothermic reaction when I mix it in water.

People with calcium reactors often use TLF ReMag.
 
PizzaOven said:
What do you use for Mg supplement?
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Water changes are sufficient for me to keep it good levels.

I have and will use this if needed since I am using the Balling light method for Alk and CA and trust the quality:

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Jan 26, 2025, general update - goni & mysterious phosphate issues:

I am getting close to capacity now with the corals in this tank after collecting several of them over the past few weeks - many are from @dandemeyere and @derek_SR.

I am showing this despite the eye sore of the goni on the lower left, which I once got from @under_water_ninja and which used to be very nice looking until it was exposed to too much light and too low trace elements over too long. It seemed to be gone but recovered considerably, except for some areas with algae growing over them, which I cut off. It probably needs to be cut into several smaller pieces, with the dead parts to be cut off. But this is something I am not able to do, so if anyone wants to do this and keep a piece as a reward, I am planning to be at the CFM or frag swap and can bring it.

Also, this tank has a bigger phosphate issue (0.34 mg/l despite carbon dosing), for which I blame the transfer of one of my live rocks from the IM 150 into this tank and potentially the die-off of the KP aquatic live rock (although I feel this is less likely). I have started now to dose LC.

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I have two Icecap 2k gyres in this tank - as per the pictures above - connected to a Hydros Wave Engine LE. The way they can be placed vertically and how they hide nicely makes them perfect for this little tank.

Unfortunately, these gyres are of terrible quality and reliability. I have now the third gyre not working anymore randomly in a short time, without dismantling, right out of the box. Two other gyres are currently with CoralVue for inspection (25 USD shipping for me).

I would say I have a bit of experience with gyres. I run four maxspect xf350 in the IM 150, clean them every 12 weeks, and take them apart completely. They do not always run immediately afterwards as I sometimes do not press them together properly etc, but any issue could be fixed within a couple of minutes or less. They run like a charm.

Not these - they feel and are just cheap toys. Nothing is stuck in them, they are still super clean inside, I can manually rotate them, still, they just stopped working. Do not buy these.

I need to find another brand now. Happy to hear recommendations.

P.S.: It looks like these were also previously branded under the Maxspect brand but maybe this is not true, since their technical details seem to be slightly different.

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Darkxerox said:
Did it come with any screw on hose barb connectors you could just slip a silicone tube onto that connects to the return nozzle?
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So the right piece is from the tank. Or rather it has the same size as the tank’s plumbing. If I use a silicone tube, how would it connect with the larger tank plumbing screw on piece?
 
Ah I thought it was an AIO from the photos oops, just looked back to see the hard plumbing. Instead, I'd just measure the connectors and see if you can find an adaptor online or if Neptune has any on hand.
 
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