Ammonia in newly mixed saltwater???

[melly mel]

Decided to test some newly mixed saltwater and it showed ammonia reading of 0.25 using an API ammonia kit. Whats another ammonia test kit I should use to get more accurate readings since i know for a fact new salt water shouldnt have ammonia....or does it? By newly mixed saltwater I I mean it has been mixing for 2 weeks with a flow.

 

[Mr. Ugly]

If you are using an RODI system, make sure your resins are not overdue for a change. They can release ammonia if they are spent.

 

[LeviT]

Check out..... shoot I forgot where it was but I think Reef Threads talked about this.... I think it had something to do with the tap water...... sorry I don't recall the details.

 

[lattehiatus]

I second what Mr. Ugly said - most of the Bay Area gets chloramine-treated water, and if your carbon resin is spent, you essentially get ammonia in your product water. Chloramine is a combination of chlorine and ammonia. If your carbon resins are no longer removing chloramine, your RO membrane is also being attacked by chlorine molecules and may not last long.

I've never found a reason to use any test kits other than API for ammonia. If you want to re-confirm the ammonia reading, there are a couple options:
1. Purchase or borrow an ammonia test kit from a BAR neighbor, or take a water sample to a LFS
2. Test your tap water, and a known sample (e.x., distilled water)
- If tap water is showing ammonia (from chloramines) and distilled water has no ammonia reading, your test kit is probably not off

 

[GreshamH]

What brand of salt?

 

[melly mel]

If you are using an RODI system, make sure your resins are not overdue for a change. They can release ammonia if they are spent.

I second what Mr. Ugly said - most of the Bay Area gets chloramine-treated water, and if your carbon resin is spent, you essentially get ammonia in your product water. Chloramine is a combination of chlorine and ammonia. If your carbon resins are no longer removing chloramine, your RO membrane is also being attacked by chlorine molecules and may not last long.

I've never found a reason to use any test kits other than API for ammonia. If you want to re-confirm the ammonia reading, there are a couple options:
1. Purchase or borrow an ammonia test kit from a BAR neighbor, or take a water sample to a LFS
2. Test your tap water, and a known sample (e.x., distilled water)
- If tap water is showing ammonia (from chloramines) and distilled water has no ammonia reading, your test kit is probably not off

This time around I used RO water from the LFS since my RO/DI is still hooked up at my condo. I'll try and test another batch of water and fresh water and see what results I get. I'm hoping maybe the reading was just off because After I gave the tube a really good cleaning and tested my cycling tank later last night, ammonia reading was 0ppm.

Check out..... shoot I forgot where it was but I think Reef Threads talked about this.... I think it had something to do with the tap water...... sorry I don't recall the details.

Tried to do a search but couldnt find anything.

What brand of salt?

Gresh, seachem reef salt.

 

[LeviT]

I found it. It's Reef Threads podcast 48, you can find it on iTunes or read about it here http://www.reefs.com/blog/2011/08/03/ammonia-alert/and here http://www.reefthreads.com/?p=1044

The just is that water coming from the tap had so much ammonia in it that the RODI wasn't able to keep up. Would new cartridges have helped.

 

[melly mel]

Thanks for the Links Levi, Blocked at work so I will check it out when I get home.

On a good note, amm was 0ppm in the display after cleaning the vile!

 

[Mr. Ugly]

Carbon catalyzes the breakdown of the chloramine into ammonia and chlorine which are absorbed by your resins.

If your resins are spent, they can release ammonia as you hit them with more dissolved solids which take the place of the ammonia.

 

[tuberider]

Not to mention if chloramine gets beyond the filter stages it is fairly stable and can hang out for days before breaking down, that is after all why they use it in treatment.

 

[melly mel]

Carbon catalyzes the breakdown of the chloramine into ammonia and chlorine which are absorbed by your resins.

If your resins are spent, they can release ammonia as you hit them with more dissolved solids which take the place of the ammonia.

Not to mention if chloramine gets beyond the filter stages it is fairly stable and can hang out for days before breaking down, that is after all why they use it in treatment.

Got it! I'm pretty good at changing out my media on my own RO/DI filter when needed and check my TDS every 3 months or so. I'll be transferring my unit to the new house probably after I get back from L.A this weekend so I wont have to worry about this after.