Cali Kid Corals

Best Automatic Water Change Setup

scuzy said:
I think the aquabus is Max at 30 feet cause of the signal will degrade.


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No the single AquaBus run length that is supported is 100'-125'. The Apex system supports up to 200' in total length of AquaBus cables. I have seen system go over this total feet and work, but can also cause issues so keep this in mind. I am pretty close to 200'.

I know usfirewire make a special AquaBus cables from 50' up to 125'
http://www.usbfirewire.com/parts/rr-apex-xx.html
 
You can make one using cat5e or cat6 cable and then wiring a usb plug to a RJ45 plug. Good especially if you're running in wall so you can get cl2 or cl3 fire rated cable. I made a 15' one and have had zero issues with it for almost a year.

Day_0306_aquabus_cable.jpg
 
How will you assure that the water is being pumped in and out evenly. IME the tubing may wear differently in the dual head and may not get pumped at the same rate.
 
RandyC said:
You can make one using cat5e or cat6 cable and then wiring a usb plug to a RJ45 plug. Good especially if you're running in wall so you can get cl2 or cl3 fire rated cable. I made a 15' one and have had zero issues with it for almost a year....
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The only concern with that idea is it seems you are randomly connecting the twisted pairs.
Not a big deal on a short cable.
But if you wire the wrong ones together, it would affect crosstalk and signal integrity on a very long cable.
 
iani said:
How will you assure that the water is being pumped in and out evenly. IME the tubing may wear differently in the dual head and may not get pumped at the same rate.
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Is the difference in pumping rate linear to length of tubing?

Others did awc successfully using masterflex dual head before. The difference in my case is the 40-50 feet run.


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Here's a easier way. Turn off ATO then have apex pump out water until low float. Then pump in new water to high float. Then turn ato back on when high float is reach. Then you dont need exact volume or fancy masterflex :)


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I think your plan is certainly doable but seems complicated to me.

The masterflex is whisper quiet — why not have it in your stand? My Rodi reservoir gravity feeds about 30 ft to a ato container in the crawl space. It has a float valve to stop it when it’s full.

I have optical sensors in my tank in the return compartment for low and high water lines to shut off masterflex AWC if either of them are triggered.

Seems more simple? Only have one apex location. Don’t have to run wires everywhere. Don’t have to program much.

You’re welcome to come by one day and check out my setup.

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Gablami said:
I think your plan is certainly doable but seems complicated to me.

The masterflex is whisper quiet — why not have it in your stand? My Rodi reservoir gravity feeds about 30 ft to a ato container in the crawl space. It has a float valve to stop it when it’s full.

I have optical sensors in my tank in the return compartment for low and high water lines to shut off masterflex AWC if either of them are triggered.

Seems more simple? Only have one apex location. Don’t have to run wires everywhere. Don’t have to program much.

You’re welcome to come by one day and check out my setup.

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Y’all need to make a tank tour out in that neck o the woods. I wanna see too!
 
scuzy said:
Here's a easier way. Turn off ATO then have apex pump out water until low float. Then pump in new water to high float. Then turn ato back on when high float is reach. Then you dont need exact volume or fancy masterflex :)


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I’d think this is better done at sump instead of DT. Skimmer and return pump should be turned off too before removing old SW. The high float will be positioned at exactly where water level is once DT completes draining into sump.

And I need tubing with diameter larger than 1/4” to decrease the pumping time. Plus the fresh SW better be heated first.

Seems using masterflex for 24x7 slow awc still has some good benefits. I can monitor the imbalance of in and out by measuring change in salinity, I think.



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Yes you would do this in sump but in the return section where you can have a little low water level and top off level. The little bit of water change 2-5 gallons not going to affect your system.


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Gablami said:
I have optical sensors in my tank in the return compartment for low and high water lines to shut off masterflex AWC if either of them are triggered.

Don’t have to run wires e erywhere
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I do want to put sensors at garage that are monitored by apex in family room. And I just realized the only wire I need to run is one 40-50 feet long quabus cable, to connect an eb8 plus a breakout box at garage to the apex brain in family room. No need to lay 22 gauge wires between garage and family room, right?

Where did you buy those optical sensors? I assume they serve same purpose as those mechanical float switches but do a better job?

I prefer not using gravity feed for filling ato reservoir. I mix kalk at garage so there is risk the float switch may get stuck open and flood ato reservoir. I prefer using a pump instead, either triggered based on sensors or manually.
 
Julius Chen said:
I do want to put sensors at garage that are monitored by apex in family room. And I just realized the only wire I need to run is one 40-50 feet long quabus cable, to connect an eb8 plus a breakout box at garage to the apex brain in family room. No need to lay 22 gauge wires between garage and family room, right?

Where did you buy those optical sensors? I assume they serve same purpose as those mechanical float switches but do a better job?

I prefer not using gravity feed for filling ato reservoir. I mix kalk at garage so there is risk the float switch may get stuck open and flood ato reservoir. I prefer using a pump instead, either triggered based on sensors or manually.
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Optical sensors are probably apex fmm module ones which requires a fmm to supply power unlike the low voltage floats.


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