Jestersix

Brandie's 210 Upgrade

Beananimal uses three valves, which you only need one. One restricts flow to just the point of constant siphon (so the pipe has no air at all). For pipes, this is the maximum flowrate a pipe of a given diameter can support under gravity feed. Siphons are quiet.

The other flow is trickle flow and last one is emergency drain. I am sure you know all this.

As for overflow, I like coast to coast style, but that is just me. If you check on RC or NCRC, I have some pictures of my coast to coast I built with plastic from tap plastics. Then I just had to drill holes and fit them inside my tank with bulkheads.
 
zeroinverse said:
Beananimal uses three valves, which you only need one. One restricts flow to just the point of constant siphon (so the pipe has no air at all). For pipes, this is the maximum flowrate a pipe of a given diameter can support under gravity feed. Siphons are quiet.

The other flow is trickle flow and last one is emergency drain. I am sure you know all this.

As for overflow, I like coast to coast style, but that is just me. If you check on RC or NCRC, I have some pictures of my coast to coast I built with plastic from tap plastics. Then I just had to drill holes and fit them inside my tank with bulkheads.
Click to expand...
Have a link to your coast to coast thread/pictures?
 
Original build thread...
http://www.norcalreefclub.com/index.php?/topic/4004-zeroinverse-150-gallon-setup/

It only had two holes drilled and since I oversized my piping, I decided not to use a third "emergency" drain. Because I do not expect (keeping fingers crossed) that a snail or chaeto or gunk would clog the drain inputs enough to overflow BOTH siphon & trickle flow drains.

I pulled out the original C2C and build my own. My new one was much thinner side profile than the original black one. 6-inch versus 3-inch. Which means I get more light into back of tank.

Here is the "updated" coast to coast overflow.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2177270
Tap plastics cut it, I glued it together and tested for leakage.

You only really need on O-ring. Between the outside of hole in plastic box and the glass hole. The bulkhead basically seals the O-ring to the glass, preventing water from draining out of your tank through the glass hole, and O-ring seals the plastic box so under power-outage, your "main tank water" doesn't slowly drain into your overflow box and drain your top tank to the level of the holes. Which would only be maybe 3~5 inches of water.

This should not happen since the O-ring seals it, but even if it does, that is why I like SIDE-DRILLED tanks. Worst case, I get 3~4 inches of water overflowing my sump instead of my entire display tank draining onto the sump and drying out ALL my corals. ^_^ For me the plastic overflows with bottom glass drains just seems like a risk I don't want to take. So instead, I choose to have a slightly "uglier" pipes on the backside for safety of mind.
 
I've seen to have hit a snag. I want to do one of these over flow systems, but I want everything to be contained to the tank and or the stand. I am not sure how to accomplish either of these ways with such a long tank. A coast to coast overflow doesn't appeal because of the length of the tank; maintenance will be a beast with such a deep tank. If I decide to go with a beananimal, denzil said that that the depth of the overflow is what makes it work. I've thought about putting it on the side of the tank, but then I am not sure how to cover it.

For now, this is a thorn in my side. I am going to have to continue to look at things to figure out how to get the best of both worlds.
 
confused why beananimal designs need "depth"? You mean front to back? or you mean top to bottom depth/height?

Beananimal only needs one drain to have elbow pointing down (to create the continuous siphon) and one pointing up or at an angle for the trickle flow. Then the only 3rd emergency drain is just pointing up (higher than the trickle drain).

Sounds like what you really want is either IN-TANK sump (you can create a false wall to hide stuff. Kind of like those integrated nanotanks.
OR you will just have to get a reef ready tank and just use a bulkhead where the drain water pipe is located almost at the same level as your tank water. Instead of a reef-ready overflow draining to near the bottom of the overflow section where it then drains to sump, you'd just incorporate a beananimal on the "inside" where the "drains" are near the top near the display tank top water level.

OR you can just go with a Zero-Edge tank. I've heard those are hard to clean though. Instead of just 3 or 4 sides of INSIDE glass you have to clean the OUTSIDE of glass too. ^_^
 
Because I don't want a shallow over flow in my tank. TBH, it's nothing more than my OCD, but dammit, if I have time on this build, which I do, I am going to do everything that I want. LoL. But since I don't want it in my tank, it would have to behind the tank, making it deeper than desired, but also, then I have the pipes on the outside of the tank, which I would prefer not to have. Again, I am being very picky, I get it, but I am pretty sure it's going to be a custom fab, so I am going to be as picky as I want. xD

My original idea was to have a tank with three, top to bottom overflows: left, middle, right. I would then use the beananimal drain, one pipe in each overflow, but Denzil said that that wouldn't work, that it would be like having three durso drains. This is where I was getting the three return pump idea, but I will probably just have two; one on each end, then have the mp60s. And most definitely, no in tank sump. I want a sump that is going to be up towards half my total tank volume.

zerouniverse said:
OR you will just have to get a reef ready tank and just use a bulkhead where the drain water pipe is located almost at the same level as your tank water. Instead of a reef-ready overflow draining to near the bottom of the overflow section where it then drains to sump, you'd just incorporate a beananimal on the "inside" where the "drains" are near the top near the display tank top water level.
Click to expand...

Kind of lost me on this. If Denzil were here, he'd probably be able to explain this to me better. My apologies, I am a very visual person, so I am having a hard time visualizing it.

And heck no to a zero edge LOL. I think they are beautiful, but I have too many young hands that will be be around the tank for a zero edge. >.<
 
See attached picture.

Basically, inside an in-tank overflow box, you build your beananimal 3-pipe system. You'll probably also drill 1 or 2 smaller holes for return piping.

There an added benefit for this "overflow area". Since the pipes will run all the way to near the top, the overflow box itself will basically be a large cryptic refugium (if you built it with black/opague glass/plastic). Then pods & other microfauna can flourish there.

You could run the risk of detritus buildup inside that area, but you can easily just pump the water, vacuum, or agitate it to remove the detritus.

The beauty of this design is you can locate it on any side of your tank (short edge or long edge). Technically even put it right in the center so you get full 360 viewing. Kind of like one of those "column/hexagon" tanks. And this gives you benefit of beananimal silent overflow.

Attached files /attachments/sites/default/files/in-tank beananimal.JPG
 
Not a problem Denzil.
It just occurred to me. If she makes it like a top overflow box with a bottom enclosure box, the water will still drain from overflow into pipes.

Then the bottom box can have slots in it with maybe a hole on top for cleanout. It would be a true intank cryptic zone and will allow pods to grow there and release back into tank. There is some argument how many pods ever actually move from sump up through return pump and back into tank.

By having a "black box" where it is quiet and not turbulent/highflow, you can grow enough pods to support a mandarin and not need as much live rock. So you can get a cleaner/sparse rockwork look.

If confusing, ask. Think of it as if you installed a glass cages overflow (which has three holes in it that seal around your beananimal pipes.

Then you just build another box below that overflow to create a pipe protector & a cryptic refugium.

(my next tank might be made this way)
 
zeroinverse said:
Not a problem Denzil.
It just occurred to me. If she makes it like a top overflow box with a bottom enclosure box, the water will still drain from overflow into pipes.

Then the bottom box can have slots in it with maybe a hole on top for cleanout. It would be a true intank cryptic zone and will allow pods to grow there and release back into tank. There is some argument how many pods ever actually move from sump up through return pump and back into tank.

By having a "black box" where it is quiet and not turbulent/highflow, you can grow enough pods to support a mandarin and not need as much live rock. So you can get a cleaner/sparse rockwork look.

If confusing, ask. Think of it as if you installed a glass cages overflow (which has three holes in it that seal around your beananimal pipes.

Then you just build another box below that overflow to create a pipe protector & a cryptic refugium.

(my next tank might be made this way)
Click to expand...

Ah ok. I think I am very interested in the true intake cryptic zone. I will have to look at that a bit more. I have a set of mandarins right now, and I would love another pair, but I'd also like to add some wrasse. If there was a place where pods can breed and flourish in the center tank, this might be more ideal...

thank you for the picture :) I was hoping that I was thinking along the same lines as you, but just wasn't 100% sure.
 
I think I have found my tank. It's not going to be a custom, and it won't have a beananimal overflow, but damn, every time I see this tank I fall in love all over again, and I've been looking at it for almost 8 months now. It's a 210, with a nice cherry stand and canopy. I have decided to save up for this as best as I can, but due to a recent lay off, I know it is still a while in my future. Hopefully after school, a job will come soon :) right now, I am going to ride the unemployment train until I graduate. Gives me more time to focus on school to make sure that my last semester, is one of my best. :)
 
So just an update: I am going to be getting a Deep Sea Aquatics Model 225 tank! It's 72" x 27" x 27" :D that's alotta tank space for fish!

I also have a fish list worked up, and have plans to have a stand built. Stand will actually be built by my dad as a graduation present. :) He's going to get a steel frame stand done, then wrap it up in wood working. At least I have a great starting point ^.^ It will still be a long thread-- but I promise I'll be better about posting pictures on this build ;)
 
Thanks guys! Yeah, I'm really excited, about the tank and the dimensions. And David, you're right, graduation can't come fast enough!! And Jim, nope, the plumbing will be done as a dry run at my dad's house, next to his plumbing truck, as well as the supplies xD and as soon as we get the stand, and everything (including reactors) the way we want, we will dissasemble, and put together in our apartment. Now that my dad has seen the 90, he has a much better idea of what I am talking about when we discuss the 225 LoL.

As soon as I get the tank, or can get measurements on the actual tank itself, I can give those to my dad and he said he'd start the stand :D And, due to the height of the tank, this stand is going to have a faux granite (actual granite is too heavy and $$$) ledge for me to stand on comfortably on, so that I can work on the tank LoL. So I'm posting because, even though I may not have stuff yet, I can tell you what I am planning on doing so I can get some feedback :D (so please forgive the novel of a post)

Equipment:
-120 gallon sump/fuge
-hoping to maximize fuge space by keeping nothing but pumps in the sump, and actually plumbing the
skimmer return to the return pump. Still in the thinking process on this one though. Gotta do more
research before making an ultimate decision. It's also dependent on stand space, plumbing etc
-fuge will also be a display fuge with a good spot for a decent sized clump of chaeto after the display. I gotta see how much space I will have though, just to make sure I can do both.
-Calcium reactor
-GFO
-Decent sized ATO
-Return pump (haven't done research so I have no idea yet)
-Haven't decided on the Tunze or MPW40 or 60. Depending on my situation, either of these three options are feasible. The one thing I want though, is something that I can use on a bigger tank down the line if necessary.
-Skimmer: I reallly, really would like to get a bubble king, but I know it's BIG $$$. So, we will see. Haven't given this much thought.... yet. But what I like about the bubble king is it's the smaller foot print that I really liked.
-Apex controller
-DSA model 225 with their "Pro Overflow" meanings it's three drain and two returns in the center of the back wall of the tank.
-Stand will be custome built and custom "fit" with all the equipment. It's going to be as clean looking and organized as possible. Going to make everything super waterproof and wipe-down-able. Hoping to have the ends of the stand openable, like the front doors of the stand, so maintenance is nice and easy.
-Lighting: either kessils or rapid LEDs. I have some things in the works, so lighting and equipment decisions are very dependent on a few factors.

Stocking
-tangs :D achielles, powder blue/brown, maybe a few more yellows, a hippo, possible yellow belly, clown, white tail bristletooth, and of course my purple, yellow and kole
-Darwin clown pair
-another group of anthias
-copperband butterfly
-yahsa goby bonded pair with shrimp
-Blue star leopard wrasse
-red pair of mandarins
-helfrichi pair of fish

I plan on setting the aquarium up, and running it dark for 6 months, like Tony mentioned when he came down and did his talk for us. However, I do plan on establishing a pod population in the last 3 months: add pods every few weeks for 3 months, in both the fuge and the display so I have a well established breeding population to support my mandarins and wrasse.

After the 6 months of dark, I am going to run FOLWR with macro algae in the display until all the fish are added. I have decided to do more of a biotope aquarium, where I have both plants and animals in the display, so I will have the macro algae and fish/corals. Hopefully the macro will provide good grazing for the tangs, a few hiding spots for pods (more so than pod piles of rubble) and help with keeping the nitrates down, but the water will be nutrient loaded for corals. After the tank stabilizes with the fish load, and the fish are adjusted and settled, I am going to add some LPS and softies. Not a ton of each, but a few. Hopefully with the macro algae in the display, I will not need a biopellet reactor and LPS and softies can flourish. I will also run the fuge on an opposite timer from the DT, so the PH swings caused by the calcium reactor will be miminal. Hopefully a clam will be in this tank as well.. :D

I do know that some of the macros go asexual, so I've been doing lots of research on what types will work in the display, so if you have any suggestions, please let me know. Right now, the list that I have, but research still needs to be done on is:

-Halymenia
-Halimeda
-Dragon's Breath
-red gracilaria
-codium
-red grape algae
-shaving brush
-Ulva

Sorry for the information dump guys. Glad to get it all down on "paper" though, but it would be nice to have feedback. As you can tell, I've been doing lots and lots of thinking about this. I've learned a TON with my 90, and everything that I'd like to do differently in the 90, is going to happen in the 225. :) Again, thoughts and suggestions are more than welcome, and in fact, I hope someone picks this post apart and let's me know the good points and bad points. The more I know, the more of a success my 225 wil be :)
 
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