Brown Jelly Disease Help
- Thread starter Adit0
- Start date
fishy408
Supporting Member
this maybe helpful if you haven't seen it already.
www.reef2reef.com
Brown Jelly Disease: Current Treatment Strategies!
Current Treatment Strategies for Brown Jelly Disease I’ve been asked to summarize the current findings concerning Brown Jelly Disease for those that need a quick reference if they encounter it in their own tank. For a link to current tests investigating possible treatments, see here. First, if...
www.reef2reef.com
RandyC
Supporting Member
Experimenting with in-tank antibiotic treatments for Brown Jelly Disease
Microbiome testing for aquariums and aquaculture
aquabiomics.com
I would rate this a little on the aggressive/extreme side of possible treatments. I will say, however, I have done a whole tank ciprofloxacin treatment multiple times on different tanks without killing off all the bacteria (good and bad) in the tank. I actually just treated my euphyllia/bubble tip anemone/cataphyllia tank with cipro because of a bacterial/BJD issue. Treatment seemed to stop spreading. If you want more details what I did, let me know.
yoyohead
Guest
Experimental BJD Treatment On Gold Torch w/ Cipro
Next time I get a wall hammer, I'll have to try a cipro treatment.
www.bareefers.org
TurboReef
Guest
Experimenting with in-tank antibiotic treatments for Brown Jelly Disease
Microbiome testing for aquariums and aquaculture
I would rate this a little on the aggressive/extreme side of possible treatments. I will say, however, I have done a whole tank ciprofloxacin treatment multiple times on different tanks without killing off all the bacteria (good and bad) in the tank. I actually just treated my euphyllia/bubble tip anemone/cataphyllia tank with cipro because of a bacterial/BJD issue. Treatment seemed to stop spreading. If you want more details what I did, let me know.
Randy,
I am having a hard time finding Cipro or ciprofloxacin locally. Where can I find this?
Thanks,
Randy
RandyC
Supporting Member
Chromis
Supporting Member
I’d like to hear more details. If you needed encouragementExperimenting with in-tank antibiotic treatments for Brown Jelly Disease
Microbiome testing for aquariums and aquaculture
I would rate this a little on the aggressive/extreme side of possible treatments. I will say, however, I have done a whole tank ciprofloxacin treatment multiple times on different tanks without killing off all the bacteria (good and bad) in the tank. I actually just treated my euphyllia/bubble tip anemone/cataphyllia tank with cipro because of a bacterial/BJD issue. Treatment seemed to stop spreading. If you want more details what I did, let me know.
Chromis
Supporting Member
@Randyadammartin Neptune’s sells the fish Cipro, and quite a few other related treatments FYI.
Chromis
Supporting Member
@NanoCrazed knows a lot about euphyllia treatments
yes for sure! Is there a way to do this with a series of dips vs medicating the tank?Experimenting with in-tank antibiotic treatments for Brown Jelly Disease
Microbiome testing for aquariums and aquaculture
I would rate this a little on the aggressive/extreme side of possible treatments. I will say, however, I have done a whole tank ciprofloxacin treatment multiple times on different tanks without killing off all the bacteria (good and bad) in the tank. I actually just treated my euphyllia/bubble tip anemone/cataphyllia tank with cipro because of a bacterial/BJD issue. Treatment seemed to stop spreading. If you want more details what I did, let me know.
rygh
Guest
That happened to me. Lost a ton of hammer corals.
I basically pulled out every hammer, and dipped in revive (I think. One of those dips).
The obviously dead I tossed.
The clearly healthy I put in the fuge.
The in-between I put back in DT.
The ones in the fuge did great. They never did get infected.
Some of the DT ones survived, but not many.
After it ran its course, I put them back.
I basically pulled out every hammer, and dipped in revive (I think. One of those dips).
The obviously dead I tossed.
The clearly healthy I put in the fuge.
The in-between I put back in DT.
The ones in the fuge did great. They never did get infected.
Some of the DT ones survived, but not many.
After it ran its course, I put them back.
RandyC
Supporting Member
I’d like to hear more details. If you needed encouragement
First, let me say that I don’t know if this is the way to go for most people. I’m a pretty big risk taker for huge potential upside and I’ve just gotten sick of losing coral.
I have an IM40, IM30 and a 22 gallon tank connected to a single sump. A couple of Euphyllia and a bubble tip started melting after the addition of an elegance coral and I’ve been around the block enough that once torches and hammers/spawn start going downhill because of BJD/Bacteria it’s goes fast and furious.
So I went extreme; nuked the tank with antibiotics (ciprofloxacin). Total actual water volume is (I’m guessing) around 100 gallons. My dosage was based off of 500mg/20 gallons, but I threw in one extra 500mg pill to account for any absorption into rocks/sand. So a total of 3000mg per day. Dosage should occur after lights out (cipro is light sensitive). I suggest that you repeat the dosage for at least 7 days, but I usually go for 10 days. Put the cipro in a high flow area or place somewhere where you can aid in dissolving/mixing in the tank.
At this dosage level, I never saw any issues with ammonia or nitrite. But you should make sure you are checking both daily and be ready for a big WC if needed. I also had a Seachem Ammonia Alert badge in the tank. Some recommend daily changes in water, but I don’t see the point if your nutrient levels are held in check. Fish, inverts, macro algae and coral did not seem to be negatively affected by the cipro.
some things to note:
- It is an absolute must to turn off any UV sterilizers as ciprofloxacin is light sensitive and will break down
- remove carbon
- no thoughts on skimmer, but I’d turn it off at least during lights off when the cipro is “active”. When it is first dissolving, it breaks off into tiny little pieces and I could see those easily riding up some bubbles.
- I did not change my feeding schedule or lighting schedule
- coral in tank are euphyllia, BTA, Goniopora, cataphyllia
Usually after treatment, I used to throw in Dr Tim’s one and only, biospira and/or microbacter 7xlm just in case. But I actually keep a super clean (no fish, no coral) seeded tank/bin growing chaeto now. So I just throw in media/rocks from it when needed.
so now the real question is: did it help or do any good? I’ll never know to be honest. What I can tell you is that no new euphyllia or anemones have melted after the original 3-4 pieces I lost. And some that started to show potential signs of melting (receeding flesh, steady deflation) have all perked up and look like they’re back to normal and grew back some of the receeding flesh.
Here is the euphyllia tank tonight. Treatment ended yesterday.
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RandyC
Supporting Member
I dunno to be honest. I’m definitely not the expert though.
But in my mind, logic says if it’s bacterial and you don’t kill said bacteria in your tank. Dips won’t likely work in the long term.
RandyC
Supporting Member
1 extra 500mg pill per day. So a total of 3000mg per day.
NanoCrazed
Supporting Member
@Adit0 -- my magic potion for almost all types of issues is a dip made of 125mg cipro + 250mg amoxicillin to 1 pint. The reason for this is that they work on two different mechanisms so I cover all my bases. Amoxicillin destroys bacterial walls while cipro prevents bacterial reproduction. So, using both gives me the biggest sledge hammer.
I start with a melafix dip (pond version, 2.5ml to 1 pint) for 2 mins -- need to be careful with aussie golds on thsi step. they hate it. Rinse.
Then for softies, I dip about 15 mins of the magic potion above.
The best thing to do is to run the pieces in QT for up to 1 week with first 3 days using the above cocktail to 3G - 5G water. Daily WC, and then redose at lights out. After day 3, I drop the amoxicillin in favor of just cipro for the next 4 days.
In most cases, this will do wonders except when the pieces are too far gone to begin with. Works for STN/RTN too... but no QT. just dip for 8 mins. if you go over 8, you risk losing the piece... 10 mins is absolute max before issues appear. so I keep it at 8.
I start with a melafix dip (pond version, 2.5ml to 1 pint) for 2 mins -- need to be careful with aussie golds on thsi step. they hate it. Rinse.
Then for softies, I dip about 15 mins of the magic potion above.
The best thing to do is to run the pieces in QT for up to 1 week with first 3 days using the above cocktail to 3G - 5G water. Daily WC, and then redose at lights out. After day 3, I drop the amoxicillin in favor of just cipro for the next 4 days.
In most cases, this will do wonders except when the pieces are too far gone to begin with. Works for STN/RTN too... but no QT. just dip for 8 mins. if you go over 8, you risk losing the piece... 10 mins is absolute max before issues appear. so I keep it at 8.
H2OPlayar
Supporting Member
One thought that could adjust your mental model is that you may not need to kill all the bacteria, rather kill just enough for another less harmful one to fill the biological void left behind. I am no no means an expert here, but this process works in other bacterial systems.I dunno to be honest. I’m definitely not the expert though.
RandyC
Supporting Member
That’s just a ticking time bomb for me though. If you don’t eliminate the offending bacteria and it survives somewhere in the tank (on a surface. In the water or on a coral), eventually if the environment becomes favorable to its replication, you’re hosed again.