Calcium Reactors

High precision hydrometers are old school technology, yet serves as one of the best salinity tools out there IMO.

Nothing wrong with old...its proven to grow corals..just like all of the other methods.

The difference is that nothing has come close to the accuracy of hydrometers except much more expensive conductivity meters.

The inverse is the case regarding ca reactors. Much simpler methods have been developed that get much easier to target parameters.

Also, a thermometer, invented in 1612, is an old school ‘technology’ which is still a proven way to measure temperature :).
 
The difference is that nothing has come close to the accuracy of hydrometers except much more expensive conductivity meters.

The inverse is the case regarding ca reactors. Much simpler methods have been developed that get much easier to target parameters.

Also, a thermometer, invented in 1612, is an old school ‘technology’ which is still a proven way to measure temperature :).
I've done both calcium reactors and 2/3 part. Once dialed in a calcium reactor is much easier to operate.
 
If you said you wanted the lowest possible cost, then I can see this being worth exploring, but you call this hands-off, and a way to step up your laziness game? I am not an expert in this but refilling CO2, calibrating and replacing PH probes (which I do not like), replacing reactor media (admittedly rarely I believe) is a hands-off setup????
I calculated the cost recoup time of investing in carx vs two part and it was just under two years, so I wouldn't say carx is money savings until you run it for a couple years. That includes the annual cost of co2 and media refill. My calculation also factors in that I got a pretty good deal on a setup and the 2-part was ATI Essentials Pro which is more expensive than BRS mix. If you ever decide to quit or go back to 2-part, the equipment can also be sold to recoup some of the cost.

I spent the first 2 months adjusting, tinkering, and fixing some minor issues but it has been hands off for a while now. I recently refilled co2 after 1.5 years and media I refill every 6 months or so when it gets half empty. I'll recalibrate the probe at the same time.
 
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Never thought I'd see the day

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Lol.

To be fair - I have always been kind of a kalk hater (see my tank journal!), just for very different reasons than @Alexander1312 . People often praise kalk for its simplicity but I think it's anything but, and requires a lot of nuance to actually execute well without risk/hassle/harm to equipment. That's my main issue with it.

It may be purely placebo, but I have noticed my tank is "dirtier" since starting kalk. There's more sandy stuff blowing off the rocks, cyano blooms persist longer and are worse, more gunk in the substrate, etc etc.

Maybe this is just tank age, maybe it's my super heavy feeding, maybe it's nothing at all. BUT now the comments I've seen about kalkwasser precipitating stuff does make me wonder, because it's kind of what I'm seeing. To be clear I think Kalk is PERFECTLY FINE and there are a million incredibly successful tanks that run with it.
 
I calculated the cost recoup time of investing in carx vs two part and it was just under two years, so I wouldn't say carx is money savings until you run it for a couple years. That includes the annual cost of co2 and media refill. My calculation also factors in that I got a pretty good deal on a setup and the 2-part was ATI Essentials Pro which is more expensive than BRS mix. If you ever decide to quit or go back to 2-part, the equipment can also be sold to recoup some of the cost.

I spent the first 2 months adjusting, tinkering, and fixing some minor issues but it has been hands off for a while now. I recently refilled co2 after 1.5 years and media I refill every 6 months or so when it gets half empty. I'll recalibrate the probe at the same time.

Yes, great summary of the delayed savings. And would be interesting to know how much time was spent on setting it up. And how long it takes to amortize this vs refilling 3/4 part more frequently. Also, does your calculation include the cost of trace elements which are in ATI but not in a ca reactor?

Now, did you not say you had chronically lower PH? The CA reactor is not great for low PH tanks from what I know, and how it works.
 
That was one of my concerns... depressed pH. What is the best way to combat that when running a carx? First time using that analogy ;) and feeling a teeny bit cooler now.
Ive never had a ph issue running a carx.

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Just recently set mine up next to tank in a temp location so I can observe and tweek then will relocate behind the stand maybe toss a leak sensor in the bin..I’d run 3/8 tubing to and fro the reactor on long runs just like recommended on rodi systems but that may depend on the pump. I have the kamoer ahead of the reactor so its drawing from the sump and pushing into the system..I had the gas filter also ahead but took it off then doubled up on socks since I had an vacant sock holder and just dipped the drawing tube down inside but may switch to like a 500 micron filter sock..I do like that better since the draw tube sits in an unrestricted area of water so clogging is very unlikely. The effluent has no restrictions and empties into the skimmer area which next feeds a large cheeto section that Im sure eats up any residual Co2. Im still dialing in so ups and downs.. I did have the media soaking in buckets a month out before I added then ran the system for several days before turning on the Co2.. Have no experience with the automatic ones or really whats the difference so on the fence if newer is better? Plus newer Geo’s have more bells and whistles
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Just recently set mine up next to tank in a temp location so I can observe and tweek then will relocate behind the stand maybe toss a leak sensor in the bin..I’d run 3/8 tubing to and fro the reactor on long runs just like recommended on rodi systems but that may depend on the pump. I have the kamoer ahead of the reactor so its drawing from the sump and pushing into the system..I had the gas filter also ahead but took it off then doubled up on socks since I had an vacant sock holder and just dipped the drawing tube down inside but may switch to like a 500 micron filter sock..I do like that better since the draw tube sits in an unrestricted area of water so clogging is very unlikely. The effluent has no restrictions and empties into the skimmer area which next feeds a large cheeto section that Im sure eats up any residual Co2. Im still dialing in so ups and downs.. I did have the media soaking in buckets a month out before I added then ran the system for several days before turning on the Co2.. Have no experience with the automatic ones or really whats the difference so on the fence if newer is better? Plus newer Geo’s have more bells and whistles View attachment 69409
I have never soaked my media before adding to my reactor.
 
I cannot stress this enough but I have run a CaRx for years. Try to time it with your lighting cycle. Your tank will not consume alk when the light are out. The pH also drops when the lights are out because your coral do not consume CO2 during this time.
 
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