Cali Kid Corals

Cleanest way to glue acrylic?

LeviT

LeviT

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What's the cleanest way to glue acrylic (I planned on using weldon 16) without ending up with it spreading out or spearing? I built an overflow for a 29g I'm trying to get set up and even though the tank isn't showroom quality I'd like to make it look like I took my time. Thank you in advance.
 
You need to do the pins method. I've never done it, but vapormd (perry) built his sump using the pins method. It gives you nice clear seams. You need to make sure the acrylic you are working with is routed to give you a smooth finished edge.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_acrylic_aquarium_3.php
 
Or you could trudge through the billion page RC thread on acrylic work :D

I agree, use the pin method...it works great.
 
I found, and James (Acrylics) on RC agreed with this, the "pins" method really is a bit of a misnomer, pins are often too thick for REALLY precise work since you want the stuff to wick in, you'll want to use a thin wire instead if you really care that much. Also IIRC #16 isn't a "nice" stuff, it's more chunky like snot, not sure that'll give you what you're looking for as far as a clean look.
 
Thanks guys, I'll read up on that method. Not sure what the diff is from 4 to 16 so I'll find out. I use 16 before and it is a little thick but I didn't see anything bad with that so far but this is my first time working on a tank so I trust that 4 may be easier to work with.
 
Thanks Phong.

Unfortunatley I was planning on installing an internal overflow on the top back center for a clean look and better surface skimming. I'll see if I can get a pick of it clamped in tonight so you get the idea. The pin method won't really work since I would have vertical and horizontal surfaces to adhear. I'm thinking I could lay the tank on it's back and use WO4 and maybe the pin method with just a couple spots of WO16 in key points but I really don't have to glue the top at all if I don't want to..... I'll get a pic so you can see what I mean. I suppose I could just cut teeth in the back of the tank and that would work well to.... but it would be hard to make good clean teeth....
 
Levi I would do this instead. Its probably a lot easier than what you have planned. Also it will take up less room in the tank. Drill some bulk heads on the back of the tank and simply attach on of these overflow boxes on the bulk head/s.
http://www.glass-holes.com/category.sc?categoryId=2
 
Well if it's not like a tank corner, and something that won't be scrutinized by all means use #16, you don't have to use any pin method or anything for that. It's thick like rubber cement and is a breeze to work with compared to #4
 
Thanks guys. I'm far from most of you over in the WAY east bay :) Here is a pick of a test fit. Very similar to the link to what Ian provided but I didn't plan on putting a back on the partial box i built but that would be easier than gluing it.

Ian, do you know if there build heads are different? they look like they are threaded inside or something and I'm a little confused by the vented elbows they have. Maybe I'll give them a call next week.
 
Just a little trick, if you take acrylic scraps and toss them in some weld on #4, you can make #16 ;). #16 is solvent (MEK?) w/dissolved acrylic to thicken it, so if you need spooge later you can make it.

If you want clean lines you can tape off the overglue areas with painters tape and pull them as the solvent is gelling, Tenecor uses that method on their tank seams, it drives me nuts, I can't just scrape out the corners I have to get in there with a "Super Algae Pad" on a "Super Scraper" to make them shine. On an overflow box it's a little different though, and that doesn't matter as much.
 
Thanks Jeremy. I wasn't sure if the blue tape would work or not so that's good to know. I'll see what I can come up with. I like the "bolt on" aspect of glass-holes.com but I'm a little concerned about not being able to control the sound. I'll post more when I decide what I set up.
 
I have a glass-holes overflow on my 20 gallon. I've got to say, it took some futzing to get it super quiet. I ended up cutting a piece of filter media and placing it over the curved baffle. That seems to change how the water flows off the baffle in such a way that it becomes quiet. Without that, it's pretty noisy.

I'm definitely planning to do a "flooded" drain on my new tank instead.
 
[quote author=pixelpixi link=topic=4615.msg56365#msg56365 date=1222065615]
I have a glass-holes overflow on my 20 gallon. I've got to say, it took some futzing to get it super quiet. I ended up cutting a piece of filter media and placing it over the curved baffle. That seems to change how the water flows off the baffle in such a way that it becomes quiet. Without that, it's pretty noisy.

I'm definitely planning to do a "flooded" drain on my new tank instead.[/quote]

Cool, thanks for the input. I'm guessing it's because they can suck soo much water your retun isn't pumping it in fast enough. Would you agree since the filter media helped that the sound was caused by the splashing from the water coming into the box not the water going down the drain? Just a hunch based on their video.
 
The gurgling there was definitely from the water going into the box. I had some other gurgling further downstream, but since the sump is in the other corner of the room, that's sort of to be expected.

It's possible that there would be less noise with either a lower or higher flow pump... I'm not actually sure which. I think my pump is rated for something close to what the overflow is rated for.
 
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