Kessil

Cyano issues

Hey all,

I'm currently battling a cyano breakout in my tank. My was set up on 12/1, so it is relatively new. However, because I used sand and rock from a well-established tank, I figured I would not have a major cycle like a brand new tank would.

That said, I went through a major diatom bloom last month and am now going through a pretty big cyano bloom this month; it seems like I'm going through a standard new tank cycle. Can anyone tell me if this is the case, or am I unknowingly feeding the algae and bacteria somehow?

In terms of bioload, I have three small fish, a frag of pulsating xenia, some cerith snails, nassarius, and various other inverts. For a 150 gallon tank, I would say that's a low bioload. I have since stopped changing water, as my understanding is if you're going through a new tank cycle, the cycle will go quicker if you just let the water alone. I'm also running a CPR BakPak which is pulling out a whole cup of greenish water every 3-4 days. I feed every other night about 3 drops of Arctic Pods. I have, however, made some changes to my aquascaping a few times, which may have kicked up detritus.

Do you guys think this is a new tank cycle and I should treat it as such, i.e. let everything just settle down over the next several months? Or do you guys think something is wrong and I should look into running carbon, phosban, etc?

Thanks all,
Mike
 
Cyano is a PITA and in certain tanks it rears its ugly head every now and again, I've yet to figure out in 20 years of reefkeeping what triggers it.

People will say "more flow", yet I've seen cyano streamers growing off of returns, powerheads, whatever. They'll say lower nutrients, yet you don't become the first critter on the planet by utilizing organic forms of nitrogen, they weren't there yet. IME some tanks will have an outbreak after the diatom cycle (like yours) and some tanks it goes in cycles (every 6 months to a year IME). For a while I was blaming exhausted carbon, old bulbs, whatever I can think of, yet in all of my tanks I could not draw any hard conclusions, now I just deal with it on a tank to tank basis.

In your case I'd try a large water change (at least 1/3), sucking up every bit you can even if it means getting a little sand in your bucket getting the mats up. After that do weekly or bi-weekly water changes sucking up the new patches as they appear.

If that doesn't work you can go to phase two and use antibiotics, but wait and see how your tank reacts first.
 
Thanks tube. I'll continue with the water changes then. And yea, my cyano issue is growing right in the high-flow areas. In fact, it has streamers that make it look like hair O.O
 
If it won't go away with water changes and more importantly siphoning out, send me a PM I'll walk you through my eradication method, give it a month or so though of diligence before you resort to that.
 
/thread necro

Which antibiotics work from the LFS for red cyano? (been battling it in my 14g for almost 2 months)
I forget all the gram negative/positive stuff :p
 
I used one tiny scoop of antibiotic, I got yelled at for it here, but it worked and hasn't come back. I lost my peppermint shrimp, but i am not certain it was from the antibiotic even though it is the easiest thing to blame.
 
A_Lee said:
Gomer said:
Which antibiotics work from the LFS for red cyano?

Isn't Chemi-Clean, or Red Slime Remover basically an antibiotic? This is what I was informed of anyways -I can't vouch for how credible that is.


To my knowledge both are advertised as erythromycin free, they rely on an oxidant to destroy the bacteria and IME are not as effective as antibiotics.
 
Gomer said:
Which antibiotics work from the LFS for red cyano?

Isn't Chemi-Clean, or Red Slime Remover basically an antibiotic? This is what I was informed of anyways -I can't vouch for how credible that is. I have heard of people using erythromycin, but I am not sure of the results [,or if using erythromycin is legal].

Gomer said:
I forget all the gram negative/positive stuff :p

Gram positive I think.
 
Ooh, yeah...I forgot about that guy. Wonder if they're gonna continue making Pitch Men.

Anyways, are those oxidizing medications cyano specific. I used 'em in the past and am wondering if it contributed to my tank crashing.
 
Oxidizers aren't species specific. Oxidation potential is a property of the material...chemistry jargon and all that hoopla. Think of it almost like "mild" chemo.
 
I always get cyano after setting up a new tank. I don't really care anymore because It is extremely easy for me to get rid of. Just go buy some chemiclean cyano algae killer for $10. It kills it all in a day for me and all you have to do is a water after it has been in for two days. It is completely reef safe.
 
Gomer said:
Oxidizers aren't species specific. Oxidation potential is a property of the material...chemistry jargon and all that hoopla. Think of it almost like "mild" chemo.

So I am I right assuming those oxidizers kill nitrifying bacteria as well?
 
well..maybe. Pure speculation: it could be that it hurts the cyano more than it hurts nitrifying bacteria. One recovers well while the other doesn't...like how chemo works :p
 
Hmm...I'm kinda scared to use this product again, now that I know how it works. It did the job removing the cyano; however, my tank did crash around a month after treatment.

Anyone else have issues using these oxidizing medications?
 
Otakuthugster said:
Hmm...I'm kinda scared to use this product again, now that I know how it works. It did the job removing the cyano; however, my tank did crash around a month after treatment.

Anyone else have issues using these oxidizing medications?

I've had trouble getting tanks back on line after using it, but no real crashes or anything like that. I do prefer E.M. for that reason.
 
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