I figured I'd take some time to jot down my thoughts on husbandry in case anyone finds the content useful or if others have critiques
Water Testing
One of the main pillars of my husbandry is regular water testing and consistent water changes. I test alkalinity twice daily using the Alkatronic and cross-check Alk weekly with a Hanna Checker to ensure the Alkatronic readings are accurate and aren't drifting over time. I also check salinity weekly, which I think is an often-overlooked practice. For this, I rely on the
Tropic Marin high-precision hydrometer, avoiding issues with hand refractometers or unreliable readings from devices like the Milwaukee refractometer, which I’ve had problems with in the past even after regular calibration. Even if it's a bit of a pain to use, I take solace in the fact that I know I can trust the high-precision hydrometer's readings. I also test phosphates and nitrates every week and keep track of the results. Again, a bit of a pain, but I believe I'm able to have a strong feel for my tank when I can see how alk/phosphates/nitrates are trending. Tank observation is also a key part of this, but the testing approach is data-driven and is objective.
Water Changes
Water changes are the second biggest part of my husbandry routine, and the amount I do each week depends on my nutrient levels. I aim to keep nitrates between 7-12ppm and phosphates between 0.07 and 0.12, with the goal of maintaining stability within those ranges. If nutrients are creeping toward the higher end, I’ll do a larger water change—around 30-50 gallons. But if they’re in the middle or lower range, I’ll stick to a smaller water change, like 5-10 gallons. This might involve siphoning detritus or replenishing my frag tank with water from the display, which is a great way to keep my frag tank’s parameters stable.
Managing Nutrients
I also use feeding to manage nutrients. If my nutrients are low, I’ll increase feeding, often adding more nori to the tank if phosphates are running low. I'll also take my filter roller offline for a few days if nutrients are lower than I'd like. If nutrients are running high, I’ll adjust in other ways, like dosing bacteria (ex: prodibio biodigest) or increasing wet skimming over dry skimming in addition to water changes. I also tweak my carbon dosing. I typically dose
3ml of Tropic Marin carbon daily, but I’ll fine-tune it as needed to keep nutrient levels stable.
Trace Elements
When it comes to trace elements, I started incorporating the Moonshiners method to some extent last year. I don’t think it’s essential or something most reefers need to focus on, as there are usually more impactful ways to improve a tank. However, for me, I wanted to explore optimization to see if I could enhance coloration and polyp extension, especially with SPS corals. My approach to trace elements involves using additives that already contain them, like ESV-2 Part and Tropic Marin All-For-Reef and also making corrective doses (typically potassium, strontium, flouride) based on quarterly ICP test results. I do some daily dosing, particularly manganese and iron, since those consistently test at zero. Anecdotally, I’ve heard manganese is important for Goniopora, and in my own experience, daily dosing it seems to result in happier gonis with better polyp extension. Right now, I’m experimenting with creating a cocktail of trace elements (specifically based on my tank's consumption) that provides a month or more’s supply for daily dosing. My goal is to simplify the process because it’s a hassle to pull out a syringe every day to dose something like 0.5ml of manganese every day.
Equipment Cleaning
I try to stay proactive about maintaining my equipment, but I wouldn’t say I’m overly meticulous about it. For instance, I clean my return pumps once or twice a year and my MP40s every couple of months to keep them free of algae and running efficiently. Since I use a Versa pump for continuous Kalkwasser dosing, I make it a point to replace the tubing every three months. I keep track of all of this including how often I'm changing out my RO membrane, carbon blocks, and DI resin as well, which helps ensure I'm not going to long without doing so.
When I look back at the issues my tanks have faced over the years, I can almost always trace them to going too long without a water change, skipping water testing, or becoming lazy with husbandry in some way. For me, staying connected to my tank—understanding how much I’m feeding, where nutrient levels are trending, and what the alkalinity demand is—helps me stay in tune with the corals, the fish, and the system as a whole. This is my personal recipe for success, though I recognize there are many other ways to thrive in this hobby. This is just what works for me.
