Jestersix

Exploding Heater

meeeeh

Supporting Member
Hi all, been lurking for a bit but could use your expertise. I have Fluval Flex 32. My heater exploded (I think I attached pics for your viewing pleasure). I had just finished cycling my tank and was getting ready for the first fish when it happened. Woke up to the heater making zapping sounds. Unplugged and removed it. Now what?

I'm going to do a 20-30% water change. Do you think that enough or do I empty it and start the cycle again? There is some detritus floating in one of of the chambers that I have to try to get out as well.

I haven't checked the parameters yet but will in a bit when I get a break from work.
 

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You could get those poly filter from back in the day. They are supposed to change colors with heavy metals. Mine were always turn brown tho. So dunno if it changes another color.
 
I do have the heater on an Apex controller. It had just turned on 5 minutes prior to the failure. My tank runs warm so this was actually the first time the heater had turned on in the last month or so. I had put in some fans to try to bring the temp down.
 
Seconding @Coral reefer 's suggestion of draining as much as possible and refilling. All the bacteria's on your rock/sand, so you'll still keep the nitrifying bacteria you've built up over the cycle intact. Just make sure you siphon all the crap you can in the back chamber.

I'm a fan of titanium heater elements because of this exact fear, but you should be fine with this going forward. I'd suggest a hardy coral as a 'tester' piece if you're concerned about heavy metal contamination, or follow Mike's second piece of advice and do an ICP test if you're worried long-term.
 
Hi all, been lurking for a bit but could use your expertise. I have Fluval Flex 32. My heater exploded (I think I attached pics for your viewing pleasure). I had just finished cycling my tank and was getting ready for the first fish when it happened. Woke up to the heater making zapping sounds. Unplugged and removed it. Now what?

I'm going to do a 20-30% water change. Do you think that enough or do I empty it and start the cycle again? There is some detritus floating in one of of the chambers that I have to try to get out as well.

I haven't checked the parameters yet but will in a bit when I get a break from work.
Aquael heater? Agree with others to do a 100% water change and run carbon/poly after.
 
Sounds like a plan. I'll do as a complete water change and throw in the carbon I kept on hand and order some poly as well. I'll probably do the ICP test just to make myself feel better

Thanks all! You all are the best!
 
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I’ve been using inexpensive Hitop heaters and they have been great for 2.5+ years. Haven’t had a failure yet. Important part of my configuration though is that I pair them with a Ranco temperature controller and sometimes an Apex (if there’s on on the system) as well. For the cost of these heaters, if you’re worried about them failing eventually, just replace them once a year.

HITOP 25W 50W 100W 200W 300W Adjustable Aquarium Heater, Submersible Fish Tank Heater Thermostat with Suction Cup (50W) https://a.co/d/cPRK4tb

Also see this thread:

Post in thread 'EMERGENCY: HEATER MALFUNCTION (PLEASE HELP)'
https://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/emergency-heater-malfunction-please-help.33392/post-478563
 
Cobalt has sent a return mailer to get the heater back and is sending a new one out to me. I'm not sure I'll be using it given what's gone down with the last one. I'll probably keep it in the box as an emergency spare and buy the BRS titanium one with a controller.
 
I have this setup but connected the inkbird to an aqua logic controller. How does the INKBIRD connect with the APEX exactly?
I have the InkBird plugged into one of the outlets on the EB832. Inkbird is set to my desired temp then the EB832 outlet is programmed with a high and low setting as a backup.
 

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