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FINALLY GOT THE PAR METER AND THIS ARE MY RESULTS

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HI EVERYONE IN MY PREVIOUS POST, I HAD MENTION ISSUES WITH KEEPING SPS. THEY TENT TO BLEACH OUT I DIDN'T MENTION BUT MY GONIS ACTED LIKE IF THEY WERE GETTING TO MUCH LIGHT. IDK IF IM USONG THE PAR METER RIGHT, BUT I NOTICE IT JUMPS WITH NUMBER READINGS. IN MY REDSEA WITH THE CORAL ISSUES IHAVE THE RADIONS AT 40% AT THE TOP IT READS AROUND 120 IN THE BOTTOM 60 AND MIDDLE 70 WERE MY EUPHILIA LOOK HAPPY, ON MY SONS TANK AI PRIME WERE THE SPS ARE DOING OKAY PAR READING WILL JUMP FROM 130 TO 200 IM THE TOP. SHOULD I TRUST THE PAR METER AND INCREASE MY INTENSITY??
 
View attachment 54272View attachment 54273View attachment 54274HI EVERYONE IN MY PREVIOUS POST, I HAD MENTION ISSUES WITH KEEPING SPS. THEY TENT TO BLEACH OUT I DIDN'T MENTION BUT MY GONIS ACTED LIKE IF THEY WERE GETTING TO MUCH LIGHT. IDK IF IM USONG THE PAR METER RIGHT, BUT I NOTICE IT JUMPS WITH NUMBER READINGS. IN MY REDSEA WITH THE CORAL ISSUES IHAVE THE RADIONS AT 40% AT THE TOP IT READS AROUND 120 IN THE BOTTOM 60 AND MIDDLE 70 WERE MY EUPHILIA LOOK HAPPY, ON MY SONS TANK AI PRIME WERE THE SPS ARE DOING OKAY PAR READING WILL JUMP FROM 130 TO 200 IM THE TOP. SHOULD I TRUST THE PAR METER AND INCREASE MY INTENSITY??
Are your wavemaker and return pumps turned off? The surface waves make the readings jump around.
 
Yeah you need to bump up your light. Last I checked I had 500-600 par levels at the top center of my rocks. Most areas I had my sps were at least 300 par. More nutrients you have, more light your coral can take. I would increase slowly.
 
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I found this at rfr ,but I have also heard not to run the intensity of the light above 50 because of the output, but my par readings are low...
 
Depends how high your light is mounted as well - 50% intensity with lights mounted 4 inches off the surface vs 12 inches off the surface is a big difference in PAR. I'd test out what PAR readings you get at different intensities. Once you figure out the intensity for the PAR level you want, slowly ramp up to whatever that percentage is.
 
Depends how high your light is mounted as well - 50% intensity with lights mounted 4 inches off the surface vs 12 inches off the surface is a big difference in PAR. I'd test out what PAR readings you get at different intensities. Once you figure out the intensity for the PAR level you want, slowly ramp up to whatever that percentage is.
Lights are 8 inches above water, funny thing is at 80% I get 170 par but my fans turn on right away. They turned off after 5 minutes. When I switched from my hydras 26hd to radions xr15 I noticed hydras output was better. Now I regret buying the xrs and mp40, because I see nothing special for their price.
 
What are your color settings? If it's mostly blue then PAR will be low. How's your water surface? If you're not properly setting your overflow to remove that oily surface scum that will drastically inhibit light transmission.
 
What are your color settings? If it's mostly blue then PAR will be low. How's your water surface? If you're not properly setting your overflow to remove that oily surface scum that will drastically inhibit light transmission.
I have the ab+ setting, water is clear has no film , I was able to get 210 par at the top with 80% intensity. I will acclimate for 30 days. My tank height is 22inch
 
@TwinsReef the easiest thing to do is to take a photo of the tank, then write down the PAR at each major location on the rocks and put it on the image like this (it will help us give advice too) :

PAR METER READINGS REEF TANK.jpg


The hydras are also not as spread out as well as the Radions as their lenses are super focused and have a bit of hot spotting.

The other thing is that the sensor needs to be flat and perpendicular to the water surface, not angled to make a correct reading.

Try retaking the readings tomorrow when you have the lights at their peak output during the day and see what the numbers are.

Ideally you should ramp up to get 250+ PAR for the places you have SPS, so the lights might be a little insufficient for some light heavy SPS. You have a red sea 300 right?
 
I have the ab+ setting, water is clear has no film , I was able to get 210 par at the top with 80% intensity. I will acclimate for 30 days. My tank height is 22inch


Are your light lenses clean, no salt creep etc on them? I'm kinda shocked those lights should be capable of putting out alot more par than what's peiced together on my biocube and I'm getting 300-500 just below the surface, and I range 250-280 where I have my sps sitting.
 
@TwinsReef the easiest thing to do is to take a photo of the tank, then write down the PAR at each major location on the rocks and put it on the image like this (it will help us give advice too) :

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The hydras are also not as spread out as well as the Radions as their lenses are super focused and have a bit of hot spotting.

The other thing is that the sensor needs to be flat and perpendicular to the water surface, not angled to make a correct reading.

Try retaking the readings tomorrow when you have the lights at their peak output during the day and see what the numbers are.

Ideally you should ramp up to get 250+ PAR for the places you have SPS, so the lights might be a little insufficient for some light heavy SPS. You have a red sea 300 right?
You have nice par readings, what is the height of that tank?? I knew the radions had better spread, however I didn't know par output wasn't as good, meaning I will need to add some type of light to help them. My question is how can low light bleach a sps, and gonoes not opening up??
 
Are your light lenses clean, no salt creep etc on them? I'm kinda shocked those lights should be capable of putting out alot more par than what's peiced together on my biocube and I'm getting 300-500 just below the surface, and I range 250-280 where I have my sps sitting.
I'm in shock as well, lenses are clean this lights are pretty knew about 4 months old.
 
I'm in shock as well, lenses are clean this lights are pretty knew about 4 months old.
I know next to nothing about lights so, don't pay me too much mind, I just kinda expected you would have higher numbers is all. Those being lights of better quality. I also taking your thread as a opportunity to gain insight.

For my biocube I have the stock leds, and 4 12inch 21 led actinic blue bars, under the hood to allowme to only use the white channels 2.5 hours a day to break over 300 par for sps creating a type of high noon period in my mind at least lol. Other times I avg just over 200 at sps level except ramp up (sunrise) and ramp down (sunset)periods.
 
Hm. Last thing I can think of is if any of your LEDs are dead. Try turning all colors on then taking a picture of the LEDs with sunglasses to check. Or if you have it hooked up to an Apex, turn all colors to 100% and see if the wattage consumption equals the listed amount at ~95 watts
 
Hm. Last thing I can think of is if any of your LEDs are dead. Try turning all colors on then taking a picture of the LEDs with sunglasses to check. Or if you have it hooked up to an Apex, turn all colors to 100% and see if the wattage consumption equals the listed amount at ~95 watts
None of the leds are dead, this lights are literally 4 months old, I've read in another forum this light having low par output..
 
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