High Tide Aquatics

Float valve recommendation

newfly

newfly

Supporting Member
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I have a couple of the regular 1/4 float valve install on the RODI like to my mixing station and ATO. This is what I have


The float valve probably limit the water flow just enough that it cause my RO pump to pulsate. Took me a long time to narrow down to the float valve. I remove the float valve and all is good.

Any recommendations for a float valve that doesn’t limit flow too much even in full open position?

I am not using any float valve right now and accident is waiting to happen
 
Which pump do you have? A lot have a set screw to adjust the pressure. It is hard to spot on some pumps. Look for a small hole you can put a tiny flat head screwdriver in.
 
Qwiv said:
Which pump do you have? A lot have a set screw to adjust the pressure. It is hard to spot on some pumps. Look for a small hole you can put a tiny flat head screwdriver in.
Click to expand...

Its a Tankless RO system. Purchased for drinking water, but i run a line to the fish tank. I don't think there is a way to adjust the pressure, unless i open up the unit.

The unit is rated for 600gpd or 0.16gpm. The float valve supposedly is 1.5gpm which be plenty. Did not expect the flow to be limited. I have a solenoid valve which is control by Hydros (cheap version of APEX). The float valve is just for insurance and backup in case the electronic fail.

 
The float valve you have is pretty standard, I don’t know of a mechanical float valve with higher flow. If you haven’t already, I’d try another identical float valve to make sure there isn’t something obstructing flow with this one.

Otherwise, sounds like your system is basically just not designed to accommodate a float valve. If there isn’t anything you can do upstream, you could either branch the tubing to 2 float valves to same container to (almost) double the flow (kludgy workaround) or use a totally different type of level sensitive shutoff valve. Like what Michael linked to above. I like having one mechanical float valve in the system since I don’t trust electronics as much.
 
This is a dumb question, but asking anyway, are you saying it's being limited when the valve is open or closed? I assume it's not the case, but I'm wondering if the pump is overpowering the valve when it's closed versus shutting off when open.

What psi do you have coming out the the pump? I assume you're referring to a booster pump. Commonly those have an adjustment screw so that the pressure can be adjusted to be in optimal range for the RO membrane.
 
richiev said:
This is a dumb question, but asking anyway, are you saying it's being limited when the valve is open or closed? I assume it's not the case, but I'm wondering if the pump is overpowering the valve when it's closed versus shutting off when open.

What psi do you have coming out the the pump? I assume you're referring to a booster pump. Commonly those have an adjustment screw so that the pressure can be adjusted to be in optimal range for the RO membrane.
Click to expand...

The issue is with the valve is open.

I don’t know the psi coming out the pump or coming out from the RODI. As per pervious post, my system don’t appear to have any adjustment for the booster pump.
 
Can you send a pic of the unit and how the valve is installed. Look for anything else that might be restricting flow as well, especially the first combo sediment/carbon filter. Removing other restrictions could relief the pressure being produced by the valve. Maybe even upsizing to 3/8" will get you there. Pics might help troubleshoot.

Personally, I would replace that filter. You will save money on the filters over time to pay for a real RO filter. What is your inlet pressure?
 
I already have a solenoids. The float valve is for just in case situation. The tank is in the living room and flood can be very costly.
 
so then I would say. I’ve used Kent ,eBay, Brs. They are all the same. The part that fails thru the years is this little rubber stopper that is on the float. They get hard after years and don’t seal right. All of mine no matter what brand worked fine. It’s years down the line that the rubber gets old and stale.
 
newfly said:
What the failure mode? The valve didn’t fully close or the body leak (regardless of open or close position)?
Click to expand...
They just leak from the 1/4 tube connection. Not a quality connector. Yes, fresh cut perfect new tubing used each time.
 
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