High Tide Aquatics

Flow Questions for experienced acropora keepers

@derek_SR

Understood! The description you gave on your own observations are enlightening. This whole subject concerning flow came up when I was tracing back any major changes that occurred before the adam bomb browned out on me. Altering wavemakers, and switching my rodi water source from Neptunes to another shop were the only I came up with.

The rodi water Water quality issue has been addressed.
Flow is being monitered and adjusted as needed.

I see faint green spots showing threw on one of the adam bombs. The cali cali and green slimer are sending up new buds on the tips. So there is a visible return to progress.
 
I saw WWC video where a guy pointed his return lines nozzle to the inlet of his powerheads/wavemakers. I always thought that was an interesting idea - the "clean" water gets distributed more, I guess? I don't think that would help if you need more flow though haha!
 
Darkxerox said:
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I use the "gyre" mode at 50% on my MP10s with wide flow that swaps direction every 20 min. With the wide flow urchin wet side guards I get pretty good movement in a clockwise and counterclockwise loop. Strong flow out the top of the tank (mount them as close to the surface as you can without drawing air) with a good reverse direction undercurrent. Keeps food suspended and polyps moving without blasting LPS.

If you create a standing wave though, be mindful if you don't have a eurobrace to keep sloshing down.
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I finally decided to attempt the gyre flow pattern you mentioned though I only have 1 mp10. I'm clueless as how to make it function properly. I uploaded a screen shot of the screen from mobius. Maybe it's fine or maybe it's way off.

* I did nothing to it at all beyond pick the basic standard gyre function. For a few minutes it seems the flow is awesome. Than the flow goes to complete stillness before picking up again after a few minutes. ( overall there is a very noticable difference over the reef crest setting.) This setting somehow seems to shift the entire tank top to bottom.

You mentioned placing it close to the surface without drawing air- I really can't due to possibility of having water splashing on the lights. I have it mounted roughly 4 inches from the top of the water

I would be greatful if you would glance at the screen shot when you have time. Is there anything I should change or adjust?
 

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IMO - you will not achieve flow with just 1 mp10. you would need at least 2 vortechs mp40s in a 65 gallon and just use the reef crest mode unsync on opposite sides of the tank or back corners depending if you like the headphones look for not.\

use this calculator from ecotech. put in your tank dimensions and it will tell you how many you need.
ecotechmarine.com

VorTech Flow Calculator - EcoTech Marine

ecotechmarine.com ecotechmarine.com
 
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jhuynh said:
IMO - you will not achieve flow with just 1 mp10. you would need at least 2 vortechs mp40s in a 65 gallon and just use the reef crest mode unsync on opposite sides of the tank or back corners depending if you like the headphones look for not.\

use this calculator from ecotech. put in your tank dimensions and it will tell you how many you need.
ecotechmarine.com

VorTech Flow Calculator - EcoTech Marine

ecotechmarine.com ecotechmarine.com
Click to expand...
No this is for my 32cube
 
MichaelB said:
I will check it out, always seeking more knowledge.
Click to expand...
Your question has a lot to unpack. I would be happy to discuss this topic further with you if you want to give us a call. No obligation to purchase anything. As newton said (paraphrased) I stand on the shoulders of giants.

some of my guiding minds
Jacques Cousteau
Julian Sprung and Charles Delbeek (The Reef Aquarium vol 1, 2, 3)
Dana Riddle
and a list of countless others

Adam @ Tiger Lilys Hose of Fish
 
Lighting, flow, nutrients, alk/ca/MG all play a role.

High flow is always good, higher flow tends to grow thicker colonies. Higher nutrients allow for the sps to take more light and higher alk.
 
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