High Tide Aquatics

"Giant Mini Fridge" - Red Sea E-170

The thing that annoys me about my motion sensor led is it only stays on for about 15 seconds. So I'm always waving my hands under it. But I leave it plugged in all the time and just run the charging cable along the top of the cabinet.


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This particular model has an always on switch if the motion sensor begins to bother me. :)

While waiting on my rock to dechlorinate, I thought of trying the skimmer pump from my Red Sea skimmer on my EuroReef body. I used a 1-1/4" PVC elbow to a 3/4" reducer bushing to get everything to mate up. There was still a small gap between the 1-1/4" end and the o-rings on the pump. Luckily I had a length of thin walled PVC that filled the gap perfectly. I cut a short length and used it as a shim.

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While it seems to work, it's a little underwhelming. I had to adjust the overflow more than half way up just to get bubbles in the neck of the skimmer body.

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This was a fun experiment, but I'll just have to wait to get a "new" skimmer.
 
My skimmer water level didn't reach the skimmer cup until about 3 weeks after running it... it was weird. Could just take awhile for it to build up stuff. I have no idea.
 
Yeah, there is really nothing to skim at this point. I was just comparing against the stock sedra pump at the same bio load (salt water and dead sand, no cycle). For the most part, I just wanted to see if I could adapt the newer pump to the old body. One bonus is it's much quieter than the sedra.

Now that I think of it, I do have a bucket of old water from my running tank I was going to use to test whatever skimmer I end up buying. I think I'll move this now franken-skimmer to my test bucket to see what it can do with hight nutrient water. :)
 
So far a 36hr bleach bath, 3 day tap water and double dose of prime Today starts the 3 day soak in RO/DI and more prime. The plan after that is a 2 day dry out in the sun over the weekend then glue/putty/aquascaping.

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So far a 36hr bleach bath, 3 day tap water and double dose of prime Today starts the 3 day soak in RO/DI and more prime. The plan after that is a 2 day dry out in the sun over the weekend then glue/putty/aquascaping.

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I seem to remember using a lot more prime than the recommended amount. I was in no hurry so mine sat for at least a week in the bleach and several more in the fresh water.
 
I found my "new to me" skimmer. Thanks everyone for the advice. I was lucky enough to find a used Bubble Magus Curve A5 locally. First thing, the vinegar bath.

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All cleaned up.

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Nice and compact compared to my old EuroReef and good bubble production out of the DC pump.

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It's even compact enough to slide in the front left corner of my sump leaving a lot more room for other things.

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Since this is a 24v DC pump and only draws 13w, the plan is to make a cable to power it directly from a DC24 port on my EB832 using these parts.

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I do not have a wide reference having only used un-silenced AC powered skimmers in the past. Compared to those, this thing is whisper quiet. There is still a slight hum, but it's a faint white noise when the cabinet door is closed.
 
I do not have a wide reference having only used un-silenced AC powered skimmers in the past. Compared to those, this thing is whisper quiet. There is still a slight hum, but it's a faint white noise when the cabinet door is closed.

I've been on a mission to find a quieter skimmer than my Simplicity 120 DC. I got a new impeller for it, and it actually tamed the sound quite a bit. But I think the Bubble Magus A5 might be better sized for our tank sizes than my Simplicity.

I've heard a lot of great things of people with Red Sea 170's using it. I think you'll be really happy.
 
The good news: the waterproof DC Jack's showed up today. Nice and flexible and fit well together.

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The bad news: the center pin is too small.

Pump connection on the left, new pigtail on the right.

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Now I need to decide weather to cut the power supply side or the skimmer pump side. I'm leaning towards the PSU side. Thoughts?

Edit: I broke out my digital calipers (yes I should have done that in the first place) and measured the existing plug. The outside diameter is 5.5mm and the inside is 2.5mm. The DC plugs I bought are 5.5 x 2.1mm. :( I validated this with a couple of non-waterproof DC power adapters I had in my junk box. Now I know exactly what I need to order.

If anyone needs waterproof DC plugs for anything, hit me up. Free to supporting members.
 
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After a weekend in the sun, we start cooking in saltwater and yet another large dose of Prime. Planning to let it stew until next weekend, maybe a 100% water change somewhere in the middle.

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Not to be deterred by my little DC jack mishap, I decided to make some lemonade. I pulled apart the old Ikea LED strips I used to light the cabinet and cleaned up the solder points.

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Lets get some use out of those DC jacks.

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Just add an old TLF-150 reactor and... tada! My first chaeto reactor.

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I still need to find a better mounting solution than rubber bands, reseal the ends of the light segments, and find a way to limit light bleed.
 
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I think my rock is now ready for aquascaping. Several water changes with high dose prime and not a hint of bleach smell left. This morning, I've pulled the rock out to let it drain and dry a bit so I can start fitting things together.

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I spent a little time laying out my cardboard template this build. Previously I would just stack rocks in the tank. This will be my first attempt to putty/glue an actual formation.

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Getting setup for aquascaping. Bought way too much dollar store super glue. Also picked up 2 sticks of putty from TB Aquatics going out of business sale.

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First try (actually the 5th, but the only one I like so far :) ). From the front.

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From the right. Lots of cave room for skittish fish to swim in and out. This will be my most common vantage point from where I normally sit in the room.

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A shot from the back.

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Does anyone have advice on glue/putty technique? I assume if I make this 1 big piece it's will be hard to work with in the future.
 
Looks good. I'm guessing the squiggle areas are to give space for accessing the glass? I think that's really key of not filling it too much. It's very "vertical," which is cool, with a few flat spots in front.

In terms of fixing it together, you can use something like emarco 400 to keep it REALLY solidly together (AquaForest has StoneFix that works well and the same way too). Heck, you can make it one entire piece. But that isn't ideal, since it's always good to be able to remove it in pieces. My general rule of thumb is to put pieces of it together that can be removed without too much effort. In fact, if you can just balance it solidly, bump into it and it won't fall over, don't even use any cement/epoxy if you don't need it. Having the freedom to move it around later is nice, and in that case you can keep it from falling with epoxy (that you have) instead.

My current rock work has a few pieces that were epoxied because I wanted specific shapes that wouldn't hold solidly. But overall I can move pieces out easily without knocking it over.

Hope that helps!
 
Getting setup for aquascaping. Bought way too much dollar store super glue. Also picked up 2 sticks of putty from TB Aquatics going out of business sale.

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First try (actually the 5th, but the only one I like so far :) ). From the front.

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From the right. Lots of cave room for skittish fish to swim in and out. This will be my most common vantage point from where I normally sit in the room.

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A shot from the back.

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Does anyone have advice on glue/putty technique? I assume if I make this 1 big piece it's will be hard to work with in the future.
That rock formation looks great!


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