Kessil

Hair algae battle

I don't remember if it was a job or a college, but I used to be in a lab that had a DI fountain. At the time I thought it was a waste of money. Wish I had that fountain now.

I might reintroduce gfo but just a small small small amount.
 
I used to use that same water ( Windmill ) in Vegas and it always tested around 50-60 TDS. LFS here in Hayward is pretty close to zero. Sounds like its part of your problem
 
Looks like it runs at least an RO process. I do see an ion exchange which could mean a DI process as well but its before the RO membrane which doesn't make much sense.

You need to do more research about RO/DI and what you actually want your water to be. The water you are getting could very well be the source of your algae issues.
 
I only mention distilled water because you said you buy water from the grocery store. Distilled water is better than spring water. But RO/DI is best.

Where are you located? Most LFS will have RO/DI and NSW for purchase. Some will give discounts if you buy a water card.
 
Stockton

I've noticed without gfo I go through poly pads a lot quicker.

Today I received a surprise donation of 2 caulastrea and 3 zoas.
 
Just curious... When ppl vacuum the sandbed, does that mean replacing the sand or just stirring it up and siphoning?

Can/should I replace my coarse sand with fine sand? Will my surface powerhead blow it around (20 long is only 12"H).

Snails started dying. I can't think of what to do next.
 
Add more grazers to the tank and keep doing your routine maintenance. How old is the tank?

I know someone who's a member on this forum and keeps SPS in their tank using tapwater in the East Bay.
 
Tank is 10 months old. These past 2 months have been the worst, with snails dying in just the past few days.

I have caribsea black Hawaiian but thinking of switching to a finer sand, so I can add nassarius to the trochus and ceriths.
 
Nassarius are general scavengers that consume leftover food. Ceriths are microalgae grazers so their use is limited. Both will help stir up some of the sand, but not really what you're after if you have issues with hair algae. Manually remove as much as you can and then add more banded trochus and drop a turbo snail or two in.

Part of the issue will start to go away as well once you switch to water that has less TDS.
 
I've been getting rodi water from an lfs for the past 2-3 weeks.

I stuck a turkey baster in the sand and siphoned out some buildup. So I went to buy a gravel vac and one of the employees said gravel vacs are not normal for saltwater tanks. He also said I should keep my carib sea black Hawaiian instead of switching to a finer grade, and just let the gunk buildup on the bottom but clean the top.

Still so confused.
 
Strange, which LFS was it? The only time you don't want to disturb the sandbed is if it is a deep sandbed (5-6"+). Normal sandbeds are only an inch or two deep, just enough to be visually appealing to the owner. The size of the grain and color is also simply a matter of personal preference. I personally like the look of fine sand but I have too much flow in my tank. The finer it is the more chance it will be blown around. Vacuuming it allows you to suck up the detritus that settles and works its way down into the sand. If you don't vacuum it then you'll need a clean up crew to take care of it.
 
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