Help tangs has developed spots
- Thread starter MichaelB
- Start date
Kensington Reefer
Supporting Member
As long as they eat there’s hope
50% water change now
50% tomorrow
UV sterilizer
Raise temp to 82
Repeat as fish dictate
You can’t change too much water
50% water change now
50% tomorrow
UV sterilizer
Raise temp to 82
Repeat as fish dictate
You can’t change too much water
Copper treatment QT tank Humble Fish
Copper Products ** (therapeutic level) and dosage required to achieve this
Copper Power (2.5 ppm): 1.48ml per gallon (or use this dosing calculator discovered by @HarleySt)
Copper sulfate pentahydrate (0.20 ppm): More info here
Cupramine (0.50 ppm): 4 drops (0.2ml) per gallon OR 1ml per 5 gallons
Cuprion (0.20 ppm): 1 drop per gallon
* Both Coppersafe and Kordon Copper Aid (2.0 ppm) can be used; however follow the directions on the label AND confirm reading via Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter HI702. Actually, I would use the Hanna checker on all of the above as you may still need to dose a little extra in order to achieve full therapeutic.
Copper Products ** (therapeutic level) and dosage required to achieve this
Copper Power (2.5 ppm): 1.48ml per gallon (or use this dosing calculator discovered by @HarleySt)
Copper sulfate pentahydrate (0.20 ppm): More info here
Cupramine (0.50 ppm): 4 drops (0.2ml) per gallon OR 1ml per 5 gallons
Cuprion (0.20 ppm): 1 drop per gallon
* Both Coppersafe and Kordon Copper Aid (2.0 ppm) can be used; however follow the directions on the label AND confirm reading via Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter HI702. Actually, I would use the Hanna checker on all of the above as you may still need to dose a little extra in order to achieve full therapeutic.
Temperature turned up to 82degrees.
I don't currently have capacity to swap 50% water. I would have to figure that out tomorrow.
This is my 50gallon low boy.
Just used my 5gallon bucket on main tank for water change.
Working on setting up uv now.
How quickly did this come on? Looks like a pretty advancing case of ich so presumably been progressing for awhile. If it actually was just a quick, today, somehow thing then the analysis would change.
Lots of good info on humble fish: https://humble.fish/community/threads/marine-ich.11/
Also keep in mind, this means that tank is an ich source unless you keep all fish out of it for 6 weeks (fallow period).
And don't use any of the equipment you're using on that tank on your other tanks, if you care about trying to not spread. Eg no bucket reuse without a big clean, no cleaners, no blah blah.
Lots of good info on humble fish: https://humble.fish/community/threads/marine-ich.11/
Also keep in mind, this means that tank is an ich source unless you keep all fish out of it for 6 weeks (fallow period).
And don't use any of the equipment you're using on that tank on your other tanks, if you care about trying to not spread. Eg no bucket reuse without a big clean, no cleaners, no blah blah.
Looks like velvet to me given the amount of coverage and powdered sugar appearance.
humble.fish
Like what @richiev said, likely all your systems are affected given aerosols, your hands, shared buckets, etc.
Look into the hybrid tank transfer method in that thread with hydrogen peroxide for fast response to give the fish a chance to live.
Gotta be careful with fish from questionable places in the future. Long road ahead to treat this properly.
Marine Velvet Disease
Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum) - Updated 6-9-2023 What You Need To Know: * Fast killing parasite capable of wiping out most of your fish in just a matter of days. Sometimes there are survivors, sometimes not. * Dips/baths which can provide temporary relief for velvet (in order...
humble.fish
Like what @richiev said, likely all your systems are affected given aerosols, your hands, shared buckets, etc.
Look into the hybrid tank transfer method in that thread with hydrogen peroxide for fast response to give the fish a chance to live.
Gotta be careful with fish from questionable places in the future. Long road ahead to treat this properly.
I’m gonna agree with Thomas. Move quickly.
I sure hope not because pretty much have always used the same buckets, nets, tweasers, sphion, and frozen feeding squeeze thing on all my tanks. I did that today and yesterday in fact. Now that I think back they were used on stock tank as well. I can really only cross my fingers at this point. I didn't spread anything to my other two tanksLooks like velvet to me given the amount of coverage and powdered sugar appearance.
Marine Velvet Disease
Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum) - Updated 6-9-2023 What You Need To Know: * Fast killing parasite capable of wiping out most of your fish in just a matter of days. Sometimes there are survivors, sometimes not. * Dips/baths which can provide temporary relief for velvet (in order...
Like what @richiev said, likely all your systems are affected given aerosols, your hands, shared buckets, etc.
Look into the hybrid tank transfer method in that thread with hydrogen peroxide for fast response to give the fish a chance to live.
Gotta be careful with fish from questionable places in the future. Long road ahead to treat this properly.
:'(
Hard to tell from the pics. If they've been getting spots for awhile, hopefully ich. If they got to that phase out of nowhere, probably velvet. Either way +1 aggressively treat.
Definitely want to avoid having any cross-contamination if you can avoid it, especially right now. Even if it doesn't work out with these fish, keep whatever quarantine/hospital setup you create ready in case you see anything awry in other tanks.
Also, did you take any pics of the fish that died in the stock tank? Any chance they had spots?
Hard to tell from the pics. If they've been getting spots for awhile, hopefully ich. If they got to that phase out of nowhere, probably velvet. Either way +1 aggressively treat.
Definitely want to avoid having any cross-contamination if you can avoid it, especially right now. Even if it doesn't work out with these fish, keep whatever quarantine/hospital setup you create ready in case you see anything awry in other tanks.
Also, did you take any pics of the fish that died in the stock tank? Any chance they had spots?
gmdcdvm
Supporting Member
Good luck! Humblefish has a lot of great info for QT and treatment.
If you can set up the fish in a QT tank for treatment that would be your best bet along with letting all your other tanks go fallow for the prescribed period. Ideally, the QT tank should be in another room.
Any ideas where it came from?
G
If you can set up the fish in a QT tank for treatment that would be your best bet along with letting all your other tanks go fallow for the prescribed period. Ideally, the QT tank should be in another room.
Any ideas where it came from?
G
Only took one. Of a few of them.
Stock tank is like 3 feet from frag tank. Other two tanks are in 2 separate rooms. I will treat everything like it's the plauge when it comes to different tanks. Following this. Uv is running all I can really do tonight. Leave for work in 4 hours.
Attachments
Can't say at this point. Magnificant foxface was last added to stock tank. I thought it had cloudly eyes at a glance but was swimming fine so i didn't think more about it. As far as frag tank the only fish that has been in that tank are the 2 yellow tangs, and a blue tang I got last week.
Before all the stock tank fish died i swapped rocks from stock tank to frag tank sump. Again not implying anything is connected as they there're way to many varriants to try to say it's this thing that caused it. Hopefully they make it. I should have more time tomorrow after work to look into things further. I'm really Hopefully it's not velvet at this point.
Got uv going last night, will stop by Neptunes after work to see if robert has any type of medicated food or something helpful to add with tdo pellets and mysis.
They were still ok/ sleeping when i left for work at 4am.
I have uv's for both my other 2 tanks haven't ran one on main tank in two years, but I still have it, and I have another new one I will install on the nem tank just as a precaution when i get home from sharing equipment between tanks.
Sure looks like ich to me, and pretty advanced cases.
You have a lot of tanks and making them all ich free is probably almost impossible - certainly a HUGE task ahead of you, that will take many months. Due to what others have mentioned, you have to assume all of the tanks are infected. So you need go full hospital for ALL your fish and run fallow for the full duration. This may not actually be a reasonable option - but there's no sense doing it partially or your tanks will stay infected.
That being said - you could do nothing (but feed more). I used to get ich outbreaks in my tank, and my tangs would get a pretty decent case of it. Then they would recover. Usually some stressful event would trigger it. I haven't seen it in a long time - might still be there, might be gone. Healthy, well-fed fish CAN beat it. So if you don't have the time/money/tanks/energy/whatever to do a full hospital QT fallow process on your many tanks, this is just something to consider.
Ich is really pretty survivable, compared to some other pathogens, and a lot of people with very successful tanks just sort of live with it.
You have a lot of tanks and making them all ich free is probably almost impossible - certainly a HUGE task ahead of you, that will take many months. Due to what others have mentioned, you have to assume all of the tanks are infected. So you need go full hospital for ALL your fish and run fallow for the full duration. This may not actually be a reasonable option - but there's no sense doing it partially or your tanks will stay infected.
That being said - you could do nothing (but feed more). I used to get ich outbreaks in my tank, and my tangs would get a pretty decent case of it. Then they would recover. Usually some stressful event would trigger it. I haven't seen it in a long time - might still be there, might be gone. Healthy, well-fed fish CAN beat it. So if you don't have the time/money/tanks/energy/whatever to do a full hospital QT fallow process on your many tanks, this is just something to consider.
Ich is really pretty survivable, compared to some other pathogens, and a lot of people with very successful tanks just sort of live with it.
At this point I want the fish to make it. Getting frag tank ich free is secondary.
I have a few tanks not set up so I definitely have future options to work towards that, and the tangs or still babies so don't need a huge setup luckily.
I truly hope it's limited to frag tank.
From what I read if it’s velvet it's pretty much hopeless at this point. So no proof beyond what some here have said they think it is.
For now i will follow the advice of the fish wishper @Kensington Reefer.
Probably feed more look /for medicated food, set up a tote and mix water for a larger water change, keep the uv running, and stop using the same equipment on all the tanks.
Kensington Reefer
Supporting Member
What you see on the fish, is on the fish
The frequent water changes remove the pollution for the fish AND remove SOME of the free swimming stage of the parasites
A hungry fish is a weak fish
As long as they eat, there is hope
If possible
Set up a smaller tank with NEW clean water
Move the fish to that tank
Then implement my instructions
The frequent water changes remove the pollution for the fish AND remove SOME of the free swimming stage of the parasites
A hungry fish is a weak fish
As long as they eat, there is hope
If possible
Set up a smaller tank with NEW clean water
Move the fish to that tank
Then implement my instructions
If the spots are too numerous to count, it's likely velvet rather than ich. As pointed out above, if the fish are still eating, then there's hope.
Medicated food can help. My suggestion, short of setting up a hospital tank and letting everything run fallow for 76 days/QTing the fish in a hospital tank, would be to follow this guide on peroxide dosing: https://humble.fish/community/threads/peroxide-h2o2-dosing-for-parasites-in-reef-tank.725/
It's not a truly validated strategy, but their experiences + the lack of detectable velvet after treatment by aquabiomics test is very promising, and better hope than any other method I've found. Really sorry man, and wishing you the best luck.
Medicated food can help. My suggestion, short of setting up a hospital tank and letting everything run fallow for 76 days/QTing the fish in a hospital tank, would be to follow this guide on peroxide dosing: https://humble.fish/community/threads/peroxide-h2o2-dosing-for-parasites-in-reef-tank.725/
It's not a truly validated strategy, but their experiences + the lack of detectable velvet after treatment by aquabiomics test is very promising, and better hope than any other method I've found. Really sorry man, and wishing you the best luck.