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I give up, need a new RO/DI unit, suggestions?

Darkxerox

Darkxerox

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Definitely wanted to shout out @robert4025 at Neptune for trying to help with the cap. I spent about two hours today getting everything back together only to find now I'm leaking in a brand new place.

So what systems do folks recommend for East Bay water? My TDS in is about 40-50, psi around 45, and I've been using a 4 stage aquafx unit (5 micron depth filter, 1 micron universal carbon block for chloramines, mixed bed DI resin, and the standard Dow RO membrane. One quirk is that we have it hooked into a pressurized tank and have a drinking water spigot at the sink level where the final output is. Ideally something plug and play where I can use existing plumbing.

So any suggestions? Thanks!
 
If the cap is broken, just replace the canister.
BRS has pretty solid ones. The 1/4 ports are less likely to crack.

The trick is the amount of teflon tape on the fittings, and how much you tighten them.
Do not use too much tape, and do not over tighten.

You need a large or dual carbon block for Chloramines.

Having two RO membranes is nice for reducing waste water.

Otherwise just a standard BRS 4 stage is fine.
 
Darkxerox said:
Definitely wanted to shout out @robert4025 at Neptune for trying to help with the cap. I spent about two hours today getting everything back together only to find now I'm leaking in a brand new place.

So what systems do folks recommend for East Bay water? My TDS in is about 40-50, psi around 45, and I've been using a 4 stage aquafx unit (5 micron depth filter, 1 micron universal carbon block for chloramines, mixed bed DI resin, and the standard Dow RO membrane. One quirk is that we have it hooked into a pressurized tank and have a drinking water spigot at the sink level where the final output is. Ideally something plug and play where I can use existing plumbing.

So any suggestions? Thanks!
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Since you sound like you are wanting a new whole unit, BRS has good ones and a large variety of them. RODI units is how they got started way back when. Or you could buy local, as you pointed out having the expertise of @robert4025 at Neptune available is super valuable.

You’ll get a lot of different opinions about what stages to have. At a minimum you need a prefilter, a carbon filter rated for chloramines, an RO membrane, and a mixed bed DI.

I have a prefilter, 2x chloramine rated carbon filters, 2x RODI membranes (less waste), 2x mixed bed DI filters, been running it for many years. When I go to change filters I change out the prefilter, the first carbon block, and the first DI bed, moving the second carbon and DI bed to the first positions. My logic for 2x carbon blocks and 2x mixed bed DI is that they are important to not let chlorine/TDS through so you don’t want to run them to failure, but changing them out before failure is wasteful, so I run the one in front to failure only before changing. I don’t use a pressure pump and my pressure is similar to yours with good production ratios and rate. Some people like the 3-DI systems of doing cation and anion resin separately but I don’t find it useful for the extra effort.

Diverting for drinking water is recommended after the RO membrane(s) and before DI resin by the way, I wasn’t sure if that’s how your current setup is.
 
Klatzy said:
Do you recommend treating with water conditioner to remove any chloramines if you have a standard BRS 4-stage?
Click to expand...
I’m not understanding what you mean by treating with water conditioner? I use dual chloramine-rated carbon filters before the RO membrane.
 
I have a 4 stage BRS RODI system (i.e. 1 carbon filter). I haven't added any Seachem Prime, for example, to remove any potential residual chloramine—would that show up in the TDS reading? Googling, looks like most people don't add a treatment like Prime to their RODI water but a few do.
 
Klatzy said:
I have a 4 stage BRS RODI system (i.e. 1 carbon filter). I haven't added any Seachem Prime, for example, to remove any potential residual chloramine—would that show up in the TDS reading? Googling, looks like most people don't add a treatment like Prime to their RODI water but a few do.
Click to expand...
The chlorine will destroy a RO membrane so it needs to be removed before then. Don’t know how you’d do that with Prime.

Plus Prime doesn’t remove chlorine, it temporarily neutralizes it.

There are better ways.
 
JVU said:
Since you sound like you are wanting a new whole unit, BRS has good ones and a large variety of them. RODI units is how they got started way back when. Or you could buy local, as you pointed out having the expertise of @robert4025 at Neptune available is super valuable.

You’ll get a lot of different opinions about what stages to have. At a minimum you need a prefilter, a carbon filter rated for chloramines, an RO membrane, and a mixed bed DI.

I have a prefilter, 2x chloramine rated carbon filters, 2x RODI membranes (less waste), 2x mixed bed DI filters, been running it for many years. When I go to change filters I change out the prefilter, the first carbon block, and the first DI bed, moving the second carbon and DI bed to the first positions. My logic for 2x carbon blocks and 2x mixed bed DI is that they are important to not let chlorine/TDS through so you don’t want to run them to failure, but changing them out before failure is wasteful, so I run the one in front to failure only before changing. I don’t use a pressure pump and my pressure is similar to yours with good production ratios and rate. Some people like the 3-DI systems of doing cation and anion resin separately but I don’t find it useful for the extra effort.

Diverting for drinking water is recommended after the RO membrane(s) and before DI resin by the way, I wasn’t sure if that’s how your current setup is.
Click to expand...
Yeah I've been running this carbon block and I *think* it's enough? https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-universal-carbon-block-filter-1-micron.html

I probably only use ~60 gallons a month and don't really have room for the 2x filters, but it definitely makes sense for efficiency!

So I guess I'll get this one, cannibalize the splitter that goes out to the water tank, and call it a day. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-75gpd-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

Thanks for the input everyone!
 
When I made water for the former tank (now I just buy it) I used a sediment filter, 2 carbon blocks and then two chamber di system.

Our tdi was normally 30. A big bag of DI lasted 9 months to a year. Made on average 30 gallons a month. Only issue with a 1/4 port it took about 30-40 minutes to fill the container.
 
Go big or go home...

My piece meal system:

Sediment -> 2x Carbon, chloramine removal capable -> 3x 75GPD RO running at 80 PSI for 1:0.75 (gotta squeeze every last drop of good water) -> 2 stage DI (Cation /anion)

Don't need anything fancy. Just a frame to hold filter blocks and various add-on canisters from ebay /BRS /amazon.

Only critical things beyond are a booster pump, a pressure gauge, and an auto shutoff setup rated at 40 PSI. Inline TDS is a nice option too.
 
NanoCrazed said:
Go big or go home...

My piece meal system:

Sediment -> 2x Carbon, chloramine removal capable -> 3x 75GPD RO running at 80 PSI for 1:0.75 (gotta squeeze every last drop of good water) -> 2 stage DI (Cation /anion)

Don't need anything fancy. Just a frame to hold filter blocks and various add-on canisters from ebay /BRS /amazon.

Only critical things beyond are a booster pump, a pressure gauge, and an auto shutoff setup rated at 40 PSI. Inline TDS is a nice option too.
Click to expand...
Yeah I just don't have the space in there. This is what it looks like, less than 22 inches from back to front
 

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I've been using a 5-Stage AirWaterIce RODI for about 9 years now. I never had to change the O-rings and it never leaks. I since also purchased a second RODI, but from BRS (same 5-stage).
 
rdriggett said:
I love my 7 stage BRS + 8800 booster pump system! I just purchased a replacement filter kit after 6 months of use because I’m paranoid of chloramines
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Are folks measuring their waste water with chloramine tests like @Meshmez mentioned or just switching out carbon blocks based on when their DI resin appears exhausted? The test strips have terrible reviews and seem to say that they don't detect properly.

Also glad I waited until the labor day sale since everything is 15% off now!
 
Carbon blocks and di don’t really have anything to do with each other as far as when to switch.
Carbon blocks have a rated life in gallons which includes the waste.
Di will usually change color when spent(not all of them but most) and you can monitor the tds of output water as well, but I go by color change largely
 
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