Kessil

LED lighting

What are you trying to fix? Algae growth? Pluck it manually as much as you can and get more herbivores like urchins and turbo snails to eat the new growth.
Too much to manually remove. Tangs is all I can use. Porcupine puffer will eat snails and I’m guessing the urchin as well.

Algae aside, I’m trying to find out why my mushrooms which once opened nice and wide…and fluffy, are now closed and unhappy. Contrast them with the elephant ears which are huge and happy.
 
The food you feed can contribute a lot to high PO4. What brands of food are you feeding? What’s your feeding schedule look like? Can you post a picture of your tank.
 
Use multiple fistfulls, a toothbrush and a sock, some elbow grease, there is never too much to manually remove.

For the mushroom, feed them, do a water change and maybe try some carbon.
I agree but when this tank is constantly not shining and needs continual "elbow grease" to get it clean...I'm no longer enjoying it. I did see the earlier comment regarding carbon and definitely will add that. Thank you for your help.
 
The food you feed can contribute a lot to high PO4. What brands of food are you feeding? What’s your feeding schedule look like? Can you post a picture of your tank.
Not sure if that is the best picture of the tank. I am running the dark blue and blue at a higher percentage than the white. All down in percentage, 35%, 30% and 18% respectively. (and before anyone asks, the tank was lit at this level when I first started running the LED's and the elephants and mushrooms were very happy. Heck, I even had a tomato clown and an anemone in there.)

I feed Hikari frozen food. With the occasional krill from Hikari for my puffer.

I feed once a day. 3 cubes for the tank. Two cubes for the puffer, or a feed Krill.
 

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My two cents: like others have said first step would be to remove all algae in your DT. Note GHA / turf algae / any other algae will outcompete macro algae, so reactor will be useless till you have DT full of algae. Your PO4 readings are 0 but it won’t starve this form of algae because it requires extremely low PO4 to survive.

If you don’t have coral mounted on rocks you can pull rocks out one by one to clean them. I have also done h2o2 dips of rocks in a bucket, without any impact on the biome.

Once you have most the algae gone, you should see true PO4 reading. And I would recommend only one form of PO4 control either GFO or macro algae. I don’t like lanthium chloride due to its impact on fish health.
 
Not sure if that is the best picture of the tank. I am running the dark blue and blue at a higher percentage than the white. All down in percentage, 35%, 30% and 18% respectively. (and before anyone asks, the tank was lit at this level when I first started running the LED's and the elephants and mushrooms were very happy. Heck, I even had a tomato clown and an anemone in there.)

I feed Hikari frozen food. With the occasional krill from Hikari for my puffer.

I feed once a day. 3 cubes for the tank. Two cubes for the puffer, or a feed Krill.
I think you need a soft reset of your tank. Have you looked into using Fluconazole? I’ve used it on a 180g before and it works like magic. Repeated the process twice in a row since the problem was out of hand similar to your situation. Within a month your GHA will be gone. You’ll need to run Chemiclean afterwards to get rid of the red slime algae and do a couple big 50% water changes but it’s a sure way to get rid of the GHA. You’ll still need to find out what the underlying issue that’s causing your high PO4 but at least this will reset your tank to zero GHA.

 
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What sort of tangs do you have, and how many?

They don’t seem to eat the heavy growth but if you manually pull the stuff and get ahead of it the tangs will keep it down if they are good workers. Urchins are worth a shot also, maybe try a couple different types?
 
My two cents: like others have said first step would be to remove all algae in your DT. Note GHA / turf algae / any other algae will outcompete macro algae, so reactor will be useless till you have DT full of algae. Your PO4 readings are 0 but it won’t starve this form of algae because it requires extremely low PO4 to survive.

If you don’t have coral mounted on rocks you can pull rocks out one by one to clean them. I have also done h2o2 dips of rocks in a bucket, without any impact on the biome.

Once you have most the algae gone, you should see true PO4 reading. And I would recommend only one form of PO4 control either GFO or macro algae. I don’t like lanthium chloride due to its impact on fish health.
Thank you. This is helpful.

A previous poster was adamant I stop what I was doing and do 20% water changes weekly for a month. As I mentioned previously in my reply to that comment, I had just done a 30-40 gallon change. This was on 12/27/23. I just measured phosphate today, and it reads .57...going back up again it seems. To me that is proof that a month of weekly 20% water changes will not improve the situation until I find out what is causing the PO4 to stay high.
 
What sort of tangs do you have, and how many?

They don’t seem to eat the heavy growth but if you manually pull the stuff and get ahead of it the tangs will keep it down if they are good workers. Urchins are worth a shot also, maybe try a couple different types?
I don't think I can do an urchin with my porcupine puffer. Agreed? My two tangs are: Tomini and Purple.
 
My two cents: like others have said first step would be to remove all algae in your DT. Note GHA / turf algae / any other algae will outcompete macro algae, so reactor will be useless till you have DT full of algae. Your PO4 readings are 0 but it won’t starve this form of algae because it requires extremely low PO4 to survive.

If you don’t have coral mounted on rocks you can pull rocks out one by one to clean them. I have also done h2o2 dips of rocks in a bucket, without any impact on the biome.

Once you have most the algae gone, you should see true PO4 reading. And I would recommend only one form of PO4 control either GFO or macro algae. I don’t like lanthium chloride due to its impact on fish health.
One thing I didn't share was that these were dead rocks when I started the tank. I added a few live rocks from my other tank to seed this one. I didn't measure PO4 out of the gate because the tank and corals were doing so well. Not sure if any of those "dead" rocks are the source of PO4.
 
I don't think I can do an urchin with my porcupine puffer. Agreed? My two tangs are: Tomini and Purple.

No I don’t necessarily agree - depends on the fish, and how much you feed him. If he’s ever had urchins to eat, and so on. Fish are all individuals, who knows until you try. I’m not super experienced with puffers.

Your problem here is that you have algae and nothing to eat it. Urchins do a fantastic job of that!

. This was on 12/27/23. I just measured phosphate today, and it reads .57...going back up again it seems. To me that is proof that a month of weekly 20% water changes will not improve the situation until I find out what is causing the PO4 to stay high.

Your PO4 is high because you’re feeding your fish and they poop a lot. :) My phosphate would be sky high if I wasn’t dosing lanthanum. And my tank would be covered in algae if I didn’t have a bunch of tangs, urchins, and snails. I can’t imagine how high my PO4 would be if I didn’t have any corals to consume it, as in your case.

Again - no mystery here, IMO. No coral load to help manage nutrients, algae is growing, and nothing to eat the algae.
 
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I'd give @under_water_ninja a visit at High Tide Aquatics. He's got a tank full of semi-aggressive species and has a proper clean up crew with no algae (and phosphates/nitrates that are off the chart). There definitely are urchins and other inverts you can keep with porcupine puffers. He also gives a 10% discount to BAR members (another reason to sign up as a supporting member!)

However you still will need to put in the elbow grease to take down the long hair algae (it's hard to tell what type you have, can you take a photo under white light only?)

Once it's cropped low, the tangs and urchins can keep it from taking over again. The other thing is that if the tank has been sitting in high phosphates for a long time, they can still be released from the rocks or other areas slowly as you're seeing, especially to algae that are in physical contact with hard substrates.

Hydrogen peroxide mentioned before is extremely effective in oxidizing the algae without wrecking your live rock. A little bit of toothbrushing after and you'll have pretty clean rocks.

But the commonly held beliefs are now that algae = lack of herbivores. Many of us in the club have phosphates >0.9ppm with zero visible algae (other than film algae on the glass).
 
No I don’t necessarily agree - depends on the fish, and how much you feed him. If he’s ever had urchins to eat, and so on. Fish are all individuals, who knows until you try. I’m not super experienced with puffers.

Your problem here is that you have algae and nothing to eat it. Urchins do a fantastic job of that!



Your PO4 is high because you’re feeding your fish and they poop a lot. :) My phosphate would be sky high if I wasn’t dosing lanthanum. And my tank would be covered in algae if I didn’t have a bunch of tangs, urchins, and snails. I can’t imagine how high my PO4 would be if I didn’t have any corals to consume it, as in your case.

Again - no mystery here, IMO. No coral load to help manage nutrients, algae is growing, and nothing to eat the algae.
I agree with you completely. Thank you. I suppose I'd add more mushroom corals if the current ones were thriving. I can however, add more elephant corals from my 100 gallon tank. I have a whole bunch in there I can move.

I will try a few urchins and see what happens. I have the real estate in there to add at least two and see how the puffer behaves.
 
I'd give @under_water_ninja a visit at High Tide Aquatics. He's got a tank full of semi-aggressive species and has a proper clean up crew with no algae (and phosphates/nitrates that are off the chart). There definitely are urchins and other inverts you can keep with porcupine puffers. He also gives a 10% discount to BAR members (another reason to sign up as a supporting member!)

However you still will need to put in the elbow grease to take down the long hair algae (it's hard to tell what type you have, can you take a photo under white light only?)

Once it's cropped low, the tangs and urchins can keep it from taking over again. The other thing is that if the tank has been sitting in high phosphates for a long time, they can still be released from the rocks or other areas slowly as you're seeing, especially to algae that are in physical contact with hard substrates.

Hydrogen peroxide mentioned before is extremely effective in oxidizing the algae without wrecking your live rock. A little bit of toothbrushing after and you'll have pretty clean rocks.

But the commonly held beliefs are now that algae = lack of herbivores. Many of us in the club have phosphates >0.9ppm with zero visible algae (other than film algae on the glass).
Thank you so much. I truly appreciate you suggestions. You are all helping me form a plan of attack.
 
I agree with you completely. Thank you. I suppose I'd add more mushroom corals if the current ones were thriving. I can however, add more elephant corals from my 100 gallon tank. I have a whole bunch in there I can move.

I will try a few urchins and see what happens. I have the real estate in there to add at least two and see how the puffer behaves.
Mushrooms never do great for me, either, for whatever reason. Maybe that’s all it is in your case too as opposed to something more sinister. Good luck with the urchins!!
 
Algae aside, I’m trying to find out why my mushrooms which once opened nice and wide…and fluffy, are now closed and unhappy. Contrast them with the elephant ears which are huge and happy.
Your salinity is low. And you added Lanth - how did you add that BTW?
 
Mushrooms never do great for me, either, for whatever reason. Maybe that’s all it is in your case too as opposed to something more sinister. Good luck with the urchins!!
My head scratching moment is looking at the same parameters in my 100 gallon tank and seeing large fluffy mushrooms, and then my 180 in contrast with them all closed.
 
Your salinity is low. And you added Lanth - how did you add that BTW?
I added into my filter sock in my sump. Initially I dripped it slow into the sump to minimize cloudiness, but found the filer socks are well above the 10 microns specified so in the full amount went into the sock and viola, no cloudiness.
 
Update:

Visited High Tide Aquatics today and talked with Kenny. Great guy and phenomenal tanks. Thank you for the advice to visit him. He did share how high the phosphate is in his heavily stocked reef tank in the front. But…he has the corals to use up all that fuel…I don’t.

I’ve got some new product from him for my phosphate reactor and hoping it dials me in.

Thanks again everyone.
 
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