got a bunch of questions after seeing your video, figured I'd ask here instead of during my next visit, incase some folk have the same questions and before i forget!!:
Ok........Neuro's questions........take 2.
1. You mentioned that your calc reactor stabilizes your alk? [~3:45] (Sorry I know nothing of calc reactors)
I am also not an expert on Calcium reactors. This is the first one I have ever set up and used. I bought it with all my original equipment order, but never set it up for the first couple years. I read so many horror stories of the reactors going crazy and melting the media.......causing massive in tank precip and just messing up the params in general. I did a TON of reading about them, and still wasn't completely grasping the concept. I spoke to several people at aquarium stores and such.........only to learn that they didn't really understand them either. LOL! So I kept putting it off.
Calcium reactors............from a NOVICE' perspective.......what I have learned: So in very simple terms, a calcium reactor is a chamber in which you place the media (dead coral skeletons). This chamber is filled with tank water from a very small feed pump (approx 100gph or titrate to your needs). The water in the chamber is circulated with a much larger pump to keep it well mixed and to create good contact with all the media. CO2 is added to the chamber to lower the PH of the water in the chamber (Tank water is 8.1 -8.4ish)......the PH will start to essentially melt the media once the PH is below approx 7.0. This turns the dead coral skeleton back into a useable / liquid state that is then added back into the aquarium for use by the corals. The lower the PH, the faster the media melts......the more concentrated the calcium and trace elements will be. If you drop the PH too low, the media will turn to mush and you will OD your tank and possibly cause massive precip and stress to the tank inhabitants.
I was told there is a buffering effect from the calcium reactor that will help stabilize Alkalinity. I was also told this would not be enough to completely stabalize it, but would help. I am not completely clear on how, or why it raises the Alk, but for my tank, it raises it A LOT!
I finally set up the reactor after reading many, many articles about them.......including a very specific one about the brand of reactor I am using. Once I had it all ready to go, I chickened out again and left it for over a month before turning it on. The tank was going very well, why screw it up? Well, it was going well because I was spending a ton of time on it. I wanted to make the daily maintenance / stress a bit less. Soooooooo.....
I started up the reactor..........the feed pump.......made sure there were no leaks. I calibrated the PH monitor on the tank as well as the new PH controller for the Calcium reactor. Once this was all working.......the PH on the controller and the tank matched. I started up the CO2.
I use the
electronic Carbon doser regulator. You can get a really nice / really expensive regulator that are supposed to be very easy to adjust and will remain consistent. However much of what I read pointed to the fact that as the CO2 tank starts to empty, the amount of CO2 being dosed can slowly start to drop and be inconsistent. So many people have moved over to the electronic regulator. This is supposedly very accurate and very consistent. So far this has been my experience with it as well. "Set it and forget it." It is also not crazy expensive.
So with the carbon doser, you can set how often it sends a "bubble" of CO2. The more bubbles, the more CO2, the more your PH will drop. You can also adjust how large the bubble is......so if you get down to a bubble every second, and still haven't got enough CO2, you can make the bubble bigger. I started with one bubble every 5 seconds..........I then left it for a few hours to see how much the CO2 would drop. Every couple hours I would change the setting from a bubble every 5 to one every 4 seconds, to 3 seconds, etc, etc. I did this until I had the PH below 7.0. I left it for a couple days, and started testing my Alk and Calcium a couple times a day as well as watching for any stress in the tank. I settled on a PH of 6.85 for the first week and discovered my Alk had gone from 9.5 DKH to 11.5 DKH and a couple soft corals started showing some stress (primarily my green polyp leather coral). So I cut the alk on my doser in half........no change..........cut it in half again............no change............so I shut down the Alk and Calcium on the doser completely.
At this point I was still using Kalkwasser as well with my ATO system. My Calcium levels had dropped to 350 and my Alk was still 11.5 DKH............UGHHH!! So I turned off the Kalkwasser and the Alk dropped to 10.5 DKH.... better. However I am still a bit low on Calcium.......I dropped the PH in the reactor to 6.6.........This raised the Alk again to 11.0 DKH, however I am not seeing stress, and in fact I am getting some fantastic new growth on the corals. colors seem a bit more vibrant as well. Calcium is still hovering around 400.......acceptable, but 450 would be better. So I started up my doser with just calcium again and BOOM!! Alk 11.0 DKH and Calcium 450 and stable!!! A fantastic growth spurt for all corals started..............AND IS STILL GOING!!!!
I haven't had to do, or change ANYTHING since I started it up. Alk remains stable, as does calcium. Mag is holding 1350-1400 with the salt mix only. No dosing. HEAVEN!!
Twice since I started the reactor, the PH controller shut down my CO2. This is by design..........if the PH drops too much, the controller will cut power to the CO2 regulator to prevent the above mentioned nightmare!! Both times it turned out to be a clogged line for the feed pump. Meaning the water in the chamber was just circulating with no new water being added or taken away. This was still getting a steady stream of CO2, so the PH started dropping. I now check this regularly, as well as looking at the PH of the chamber EVERY time I walk by it. no problems.
I am very happy with the Calcium reactor so far. I am still very concerned for possible problems, but that is true with pretty much EVERYTHING on the tank. Heaters can break, temp controllers can stop working, pumps can clog / burn up, etc, etc, etc. Just part of reefing.
Sorry for the long response. Here are some links that I used........you might like them if this interests you. Thanks.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-05/sh/feature/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index...hing-in-between-part-2#ariyuimenu_ariyui62_78
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-12/pr/index.php
http://www.aquariumplants.com/CarbonDoser_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm
2. You're using two water blasters, and it looks like both of them are in operation. You also mentioned one was a backup. Does this mean you can run the tank on a single pump? [~5:19]
Yup, just a safety net. If one pump goes out, It will give me at least half of my turnover rate while I replace the broken pump. This will allow the tank to still be heated / filtered while waiting for the new one.
3. Would it be simpler to use a single, larger pump? Or is the 'mirroring' of the pumps what you're after?
One pump is completely fine........just a bit more stress if it fails. heaters have to be moved into the tank, and you won't be able to skim, etc unless you temporarily modify your system.
4. Can you confirm, that you're not dosing kalkwasser now? [~6:26] It almost looks as if the reactor is on.
No Kalk at the moment. It works very well, and I may put it back on the system if the alk ever starts to drop again.
5. When you drain from that extra tubing, how do you know when to stop, and how much do you know to add back?
So I have 4........44 gallon Brute containers. Two of them will be filled with approx 70 gallons of RO / DI water...mixed and heated. The other two will be sitting right next to the full containers......I drain until they are approx the same. Then add the fresh water back to the tank. If I am off a little, I just add a little of what was drained, or I just leave it if it's a tad too much and let the water evaporate back to the right level. It is generally dead on, and very easy to measure.