Reef nutrition

Maureen's Classroom DSA 105

A glimpse of the fragging storm:
IMG_6922.jpgIMG_6932.jpgIMG_6935.jpg
Everyone wanted to rubber band frags to plugs - nephthea, sponge, even stonies. Some of the products:
IMG_6945.jpg
And the aftermath: IMG_6941.jpg

PRO TIP not pictured: Un-Cure is pretty effective at getting dried super glue off of hard surfaces like tables. Do NOT use it on sealed hard waxed vinyl flooring. :rolleyes:
 
Trying to sort out problems in the tanks and devise improvement plans.
Did first ever ICP test on our 5-year old big tank. Kinda expected to learn bad news like massive copper contamination from pennies dropped in or something, bad RODI, plus off the charts nitrate and phosphate feeding the algae. Nope.
RODI water tested fine except for high Si (+420.6 µg/l), but Si fine in tank water. I have no understanding of the variation - could be negligible. (Also shows Zn a bit high in RO but fine in tank, Ba bit high but low in tank water; ignoring those.)

Tank water shows everything fine except LOW phosphate, phosphorus, boron, kinda low nitrate, iodine. HIGH bromine, calcium can come down.
Salinity 35.87ppt and dKH 7.56.
So, no big contamination but back to my old struggle with algae and bleached corals. Had been feeding corals and shrimp more, but algae species and amount have increased. Chaeto has finally started growing better in fuge section of sump, but mainly lots of hair algae in fuge and return section of sump on walls and foam filter on pump intake, I assume from light spill. Analysis recommended stopping use of GFO, which I have never used.
So as I understand it algae is going crazy quickly taking up phosphate and nitrate, possibly silicate.
I know I need to do water changes. Not sure what else, but weekly water changes is a hurdle.
 
MolaMola said:
Trying to sort out problems in the tanks and devise improvement plans.
Did first ever ICP test on our 5-year old big tank. Kinda expected to learn bad news like massive copper contamination from pennies dropped in or something, bad RODI, plus off the charts nitrate and phosphate feeding the algae. Nope.
RODI water tested fine except for high Si (+420.6 µg/l), but Si fine in tank water. I have no understanding of the variation - could be negligible. (Also shows Zn a bit high in RO but fine in tank, Ba bit high but low in tank water; ignoring those.)

Tank water shows everything fine except LOW phosphate, phosphorus, boron, kinda low nitrate, iodine. HIGH bromine, calcium can come down.
Salinity 35.87ppt and dKH 7.56.
So, no big contamination but back to my old struggle with algae and bleached corals. Had been feeding corals and shrimp more, but algae species and amount have increased. Chaeto has finally started growing better in fuge section of sump, but mainly lots of hair algae in fuge and return section of sump on walls and foam filter on pump intake, I assume from light spill. Analysis recommended stopping use of GFO, which I have never used.
So as I understand it algae is going crazy quickly taking up phosphate and nitrate, possibly silicate.
I know I need to do water changes. Not sure what else, but weekly water changes is a hurdle.
Click to expand...
For a head start, use fluconazole to knocknout the GHA. The Reef Blue brand or something like that is what I used as it comes in a convenient tube of powder versus having to break capsules. Just take out carbon and turn of skimmer for awhile.

Aside from chaeto the thick 4" marine pure is also helpful for me, since it mimics a DSB and creates similar benefits... i also through GFO in a mesh bag (or use the Fluval GFO packs)

I rarely do water changes and have found these steps helpful
 
Other tank news includes adding that bottled coralline algae. Got a bottle of Pink Fusion and Purple Helix. Last week added the pink. Time will tell. I have urchins which can scour rock, but I would think I would have some coralline on undersurfaces of rock. Also, the product says it is important to have lower temp than I have, so it will be slower to spread. Curious about it, so we'll just see what happens.
Coralline-Mar122020.jpg

In an attempt to save bleached corals, I will also be adding bottled zooxanthellae Monday after an early AM water change. I hadn't expected to receive it so soon and bad timing with imminent school closure, but it has a short shelf life. I will also be doing a thorough review of my lighting bc I think that must be a big factor. Tested PAR and need to review that data, too.
 
Last edited:
MolaMola said:
Other tank news includes adding that bottled coralline algae. Got a bottle of Pink Fusion and Purple Helix. Last week added the pink.
View attachment 14468
In an attempt to save bleached corals, I will also be adding bottled zooxanthellae Monday after an early AM water change. I hadn't expected to receive it so soon and bad timing with imminent school closure, but it has a short shelf life. I will also be doing a thorough review of my lighting bc I think that must be a big factor. Tested PAR and need to review that data, too.
Click to expand...
The phycopure zoox is solid gold. Had done an amazing job for me
 
NanoCrazed said:
For a head start, use fluconazole to knocknout the GHA. The Reef Blue brand or something like that is what I used as it comes in a convenient tube of powder versus having to break capsules. Just take out carbon and turn of skimmer for awhile.

Aside from chaeto the thick 4" marine pure is also helpful for me, since it mimics a DSB and creates similar benefits... i also through GFO in a mesh bag (or use the Fluval GFO packs)

I rarely do water changes and have found these steps helpful
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I normally run nothing, not even carbon. Just have a bag of ceramic media in sump I was going to use to seed jelly tank before I decided to hold off on restarting it until the fall. Also might try the small drop-in-sump UV.
 
Think good thoughts.
School district announced this evening we will have no school access during the shelter in place. Tomorrow we can be on campus to retrieve lesson materials for distance learning, plants and pets. I will empty QT holding frags and the other tanks have ATO but 3 weeks with no attention at all or refilling of water reservoirs??? I know people have their systems dialed in and do this, but that is not my situation. Principal says we'll see about it tomorrow. :oops: Of course, aquariums are not so important in the grand scheme of things, but this needs to be resolved responsibly and is not about virus transmission. I assume security dept will continue working and all they have to do is push a button to disarm the system. Frustrating bc all I need is a bit of access once per week and I can figure out the rest.
 
Since no access... suggest maybe hitting Home Depot and getting their 50G HDX bin... about $15 or something like that, to serve as a honking ATO reservoir. That should last the 3 weeks...

I'm heading into my office to do similar. Granted only 5G jug but figure for 20G tank, should be enough to last at least 2+ weeks
 
Yeah this week for CCSF was all about getting ready for a transition to online learning, now teaching hands on lab classes online is a bit of an issue, but I figure I could do the labs take photos of results, maybe even some video, and find a way to make it available. Great so the lab tech guy isn't allowed in all week, but he did show up today, and managed to set up one version of every lab for one class, and the other two labs I know where all the equipment is so I did that. He gets in sets them all up by about 3pm, then I check my email, Shelter In Place, no one is allowed on campus without express permission... school's closing at 5pm, so have 2 hours to do and document half a semester's worth of labs... good god... But 3 weeks? HA! I'm expecting the entire semester to be a wash.

Ok enough of my complaining aside... my advice would not be how to keep said tanks alive, but to just take everything that needs care (light, food etc) home and house it there until you can get back into class. Try to completely seal the tanks with rock, reduces evaporation, keep the bacteria alive so you don't need to cycle the tank anymore. And say what it is. That said, maybe your school would be more lenient that mine as far as letting people on campus.
 
NanoCrazed said:
Since no access... suggest maybe hitting Home Depot and getting their 50G HDX bin... about $15 or something like that, to serve as a honking ATO reservoir. That should last the 3 weeks...

I'm heading into my office to do similar. Granted only 5G jug but figure for 20G tank, should be enough to last at least 2+ weeks
Click to expand...
I was thinking of Brute can, but your idea is great. Plus, I think I can get tubs bigger than 5g for smaller tanks. My 22g L and 29g will use more than 5g in 3 weeks but don't know if nanoATO can handle the head pressure from down in a Brute.
 
sfsuphysics said:
Yeah this week for CCSF was all about getting ready for a transition to online learning,
Click to expand...
Oh, man! That is nuts and incredibly frustrating for you! I only have first week ready and included some YouTube links. I was thinking how unfortunate it would be to be a college student right now, but I hadn't thought about lab course instructors! Good luck.
I wish I could bring a tank home but not possible, I'm afraid. I keep thinking how much worse it must be for people to leave their tanks behind when fleeing a hurricane.
 
MolaMola said:
I was thinking of Brute can, but your idea is great. Plus, I think I can get tubs bigger than 5g for smaller tanks. My 22g L and 29g will use more than 5g in 3 weeks but don't know if nanoATO can handle the head pressure from down in a Brute.
Click to expand...
I was wrong.. 55G for $26! Great for a make shift QT tank too... :)

I love these bins

I keep the lid on for the bins i use to minimize evap from the ato

www.homedepot.com

HDX 57 Gal. Tough Storage Tote in Black with Yellow Lid 999-57G-HDX - The Home Depot

This heavy-duty HDX 57-Gallon Tough Tote is designed to handle all your storage needs. The recessed lid enables you to stack multiple units effortlessly, while the tapered design facilitates easy nesting
www.homedepot.com
 
Okay, I'm feeling calmer now. Thanks for the suggestions. Good luck to everyone.
One last question: Any idea if cleaner shrimp would be eaten by a pack of BTAs hosting a clown pair?
 
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