I think most advice around stands comes from people who aren't carpenters, woodworkers, nor engineers. I also am not one of those, but I don't see how it's ok for a bunch of mass produced stands with 150gallon aquariums to be made out of plywood and probably particleboard to be fully supported by leveling feet, but something made out of more robust wood can't be.
For 45 gallon tanks in particular I personally wouldn't be concerned. As long as you use a reasonable amount. Reasonable probably is 4, but I'd consider 6. I'd also research online to see if there's different types.
For your situation, the pro of big shims and no feet is the weight is highly distributed. Con of that is it might take more time to get fully compressed and fully settle?
If you want to try the feet, I'd consider it, install 4 or 6 based on your gut and the internet guidance, and then stand on the stand and jump a bit. If it can support you it can support a tank.
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With a diy aquarium stand made out of wood, for a 45 gallon, saltwater and reef, aquarium (let's round up and assume 400lbs), are there any issues or concerns to consider about installing leveling feet on the stand? What specific setups should I consider using, including any specific feet type and number and placement of them?
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Adding leveling feet to a DIY aquarium stand for a 45-gallon saltwater reef tank can help ensure proper weight distribution and stability, especially if the floor surface is uneven. However, there are several considerations to address when planning this:
Key Concerns
1. Weight Distribution:
With a total weight of approximately 400 lbs, the leveling feet must be strong enough to support and distribute this weight evenly across all points.
If the weight is not properly distributed, it could lead to stress on the stand or damage to the floor.
2. Stability:
Leveling feet can potentially make the stand less stable if they are not evenly adjusted or if they do not have a wide enough base to prevent tipping.
3. Material and Floor Protection:
The feet must be made of corrosion-resistant materials since saltwater can cause rust.
Adding a protective base, such as rubber pads, can help prevent damage to the floor and minimize slipping.
4. Stand Structure:
Ensure the stand itself is rigid enough to handle the stress of the weight being concentrated on the leveling feet. Reinforce the stand at the points where the feet are installed.
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Recommended Setup
Feet Type
Heavy-duty leveling feet: Look for feet rated for at least 100 lbs per foot, ideally with extra capacity for safety. Stainless steel, nylon, or marine-grade materials are good choices.
Threaded adjustable feet: These allow for precise leveling and are easy to install.
Rubber or anti-slip base: Feet with a non-slip base will improve stability and protect the flooring.
Number and Placement
Four feet: Place one foot at each corner of the stand. This is sufficient for smaller tanks but requires a very rigid frame.
Six feet: Adding two more feet in the center along the length of the stand improves weight distribution, especially for larger tanks or stands made with thinner wood.
Installation Tips
1. Reinforce attachment points:
Use metal plates or extra wooden blocks at the locations where the feet will be attached. This ensures the wood does not split under pressure.
2. Pre-drill holes:
To avoid splitting, pre-drill holes for the leveling feet screws or bolts.
3. Adjust after placement:
Install the stand without the tank, then adjust the feet to level the stand on the floor. Recheck levelness once the tank is filled.
Alternatives
Shims: If leveling feet seem risky or impractical, consider using plastic or composite shims under the stand for stability and leveling.
By considering the strength, material, and placement of the
leveling feet, you can ensure the safety and stability of your aquarium setup.