Hum....
I don't have a PWM circuit at more than 3k Hz to test.
I was using one with around 500Hz at 5VDC amplitude.
I think it is because if the PWM frequency is too fast, maybe some capacitor charge/discharge wouldn't be able to follow the PWM.
Here is what I gathered from the meanwell guy I was talking to: If the dimming circuit of the "P" version is affected by the amplitude of the PWM signal too, what would happen if I uses 100% duty cycle PWM and change the amplitude of the signal from 0 to 10VDC? Wouldn't that work just like the "D" version?
Yes, it will be like the “D” version but the output current with respect to the DC voltage will not be the same as the “D” version on the spec.
Omid, try what I said first by using a "safe" 6-8VDC wall wart and use a potentiometer to adjust the voltage. Alternately, you can use normal batteries in series: 1.5V, 3V, 4.5V, 6V, 7.5V, 9V
Thing is I don't have any of the LEDs hooked up and I lent out my heat sink... I'm guessing I'd have to put all the LEDs together first? Can I use like a regular bulb or something in the LEDs place?
If you aren't in a rush, cutter.com.au
They will likely be cheaper than the US distributors
http://www.cree.com/products/XLamp_distributors/lightleds_dist_namerica.asp#California
I have two XP-Gs. I got them from ETGtech.com. Those LEDs don't have optics designed for them btw. I'm going to try to make a fuge light from them. I'm just not sure if they give off the right kind of light still. They kinda just gave those LEDs to me without much info on the specs. If I call they'd probably tell me though.