Jestersix

Oceanic 58

A

alvin chiao

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hi all,

starting a tank journal to hopefully get some feedback from the tank i got from Vincerama. first, some pictures/videos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/eitqh55ge0zsc1j/AACPkdL6EXiISMwF2ciXsyDBa?dl=0

first problem is the sump is too big for the stand. i was thinking of cutting a hole into the side of the stand, and slipping in the sump from there (it should barely fit inside if i do this, but im concerned about the integrity of the stand. alternatively, i am thinking of making a cheap DIY stand as well).

for now, i am going to leave the sump off to the side or behind the stand. i am mainly looking to set this up with flex tubing.

I am simply looking for a list of plumbing things to buy for a flex tubing set up. I want to have the two drains be a main drain and an emergency drain, with the return coming back over the top and hanging into the tank.

with this in mind, i think i need:

two types of bulkheads for the drains (1 is 1.75" and the other is 1.5" i believe). for flex tubing, would you recommend thread x thread, thread x slip, or slip x thread? is thread x thread possible with flex tubing? would this mean i need to buy a pipe that fits threaded? alternatively, i could also work with the top part slip, and the bottom part threaded. (i dont see any pipes that are threaded so im not too sure about this part). i also need to calculate and figure out what return pump to buy.

-2x bulkheads (1.75" and 1.5") I just measured these, but it seems the 1.75" is weird because i dont see any pipes that size, and im almost 100% its not 2"...
-flex tubing for the two returns to the sump (how much length? maybe 5 or 6 feet total would be good for both? do i need 3 feet of one size, and 3 feet of the other?)
-2x hard pipe for the two drains in the tank (both should be about 20-22" long, tank is 21" tall i think)
-2x strainers for the top of the hard pipes
-1x return pump
-flex tubing for the return pump to the tank (another 3 or 4 feet?)
-1x return nozzle

any help or feedback is greatly appreciated!
 
Yeah if that's the actual size of the holes it isn't the size they call the bulkheads...that sounds confusing, but maybe google the diameter of 1.5" and 1" and 3/4" bulkheads. I'd guess you need a 1" and a 3/4" bulkhead.
Not sure if you are trying to have the "main drain" be a full siphon, in which case you want to use the smaller one and put a gate valve on it. Then the other bigger drain will be the emergency/backup and only handle a tiny bit of flow. This will make it pretty quiet.
 
thanks for the quick reply! i've looked at the bulkheads on bulkreefsupply and understand what you are saying. i think you are right. when i order these bulkheads, do i need to order more gaskets, or do they come with enough? i am trying to make the main drain a full siphon. good point about the gate valve as well!

my next question is what type of bulkheads should i use so that i can get the tank side with hard pipes and the sump side with flex tubing to my sump? is this a slip x thread? here is a link to the three types of bulkheads offered by BRS: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pumps-plumbing/plumbing/bulkheads.html

actually now that i think about it, if i put a gate valve on the emergency, then the otherside would have to be bulkhead, hard tubing, gate valve, then flex tubing to sump.

just really confused about what kind of bulkheads i should get.

i also imagine i will need another type of valve for the return pump? or maybe i can get a return pump that is adjustable to control the flow.
 
alvin chiao said:
thanks for the quick reply! i've looked at the bulkheads on bulkreefsupply and understand what you are saying. i think you are right. when i order these bulkheads, do i need to order more gaskets, or do they come with enough? i am trying to make the main drain a full siphon. good point about the gate valve as well!

my next question is what type of bulkheads should i use so that i can get the tank side with hard pipes and the sump side with flex tubing to my sump? is this a slip x thread? here is a link to the three types of bulkheads offered by BRS: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pumps-plumbing/plumbing/bulkheads.html

actually now that i think about it, if i put a gate valve on the emergency, then the otherside would have to be bulkhead, hard tubing, gate valve, then flex tubing to sump.

just really confused about what kind of bulkheads i should get.

i also imagine i will need another type of valve for the return pump? or maybe i can get a return pump that is adjustable to control the flow.
Click to expand...
Adjustable return pump or a valve will work. You want gate valve on main drain, none on emergency. Any type of bulkhead will work, get slip or threaded. Doesn't really matter. Just get the right size. You can find them at lfs sponsors as well not sure where you live but aquatic collection has a variety of them in stock. And yes they come w the gaskets.
 
U can google herbie setup (2 drains) which is what you are planning, or bean animal setup (3 drains). In both setups, ermergency pipe is the bigger one i believe.

I use bean animal setup, and gate valve is on the main drain pipe, no valve on the 2nd drain nor 3rd drain (i.e emergency drain). 2nd drain in bean animal setup has just a trickle flow, and emergency drain is dry. I would think in your herbie setup that emergency drain stays dry and never has a need for a valve.

I would do slip inside tank and threaded underneath in stand. I wont glue the slip side since inside the tank water can only leaks into the drain anyway. No glue means u can remove pipes for ease of cleaning.

Threaded side under tank allows u to remove for cleaning, or changing desigh without having to cut and discard parts.

Pipes dont fit to bulkheads directly. You use various fittings to connect. Once you have bulkheads picked out, just go to hardware store to play with the fittings and pipes. You can cut pipes/tubing on the fly.

Some online vendors have diagram showing exact dimensions of bulkheads. Pay attention to diameter of stem to ensure fitting with ur galss holes, as well as the locking ring to ensure clearance against overflow box and stand's edge. They come with gaskets.

Most use a ball valve on return line. Cheaper than gate valve. Main purpose is to control volume of return flow (does not need precision control here). I hardly touch mine as my dc return pump can adjust flow itself.
 
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If the size of the holes on the glass is the same, just get two 1" bulkheads, will spare you from buying different size pipe and fittings. I believe Oceanic tanks were drilled for both 3/4" and 1" plumbing; 3/4" being the return.
 
Are you able to remove the top of the stand?
If so, you can place the sump inside by doing so.
Alternate, if there's a center brace on the back and is wide enough, fit it from the back; remove the brace and place it back after you are done.
There's the mod also; make the front wider by cutting for one or two doors.
One very important thing is making sure your stand has the appropriate room for the equipment you intend to have and for you to be able to work inside the stand once the tank is up and running. I see that door is more of in the way.
 
It's the best way. My 180 came with a very sturdy, overbuilt stand. So overbuilt that it used double 2x4's as extra support in the center ... which, as I found out, made it impossible to slip any decent sized sump into the stand.

Good luck with your build! If I were you, I'm make it larger than the footprint of the tank, so you can have more space below.

V
 
do you have any designs for your build? it seems like most of these stands arent just a simple table, but more like a double frame. going to get started tomorrow hopefully
 
alvin chiao said:
i was going to do something with 2x4's like this: http://thereefuge.com/threads/building-your-own-stand-the-right-way.2151/

how did you attach the pieces? are there screws or wood glue?
Click to expand...

Pocket -hole kit, just google it. Kreg has a decent kit and a much affordable kit is available at Home Depot. Water resistant glue.
That stand does not have 2x4's, has instead, pieces of 1" wood but 3/4" will do fine, that's spare wood from a bunk bed that had been in the basement for many years; you may notice one at the back of the stand the pocket holes. Edges of plywood you can buy veneer, iron-on and use an old iron to glue it; you will need a roller to press it or a nice smooth piece of wood to rub back and forth while pressing hard so the melted glue does it purpose.
 
http://m.harborfreight.com/Heavy-Du...iMTc5Ljk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9p ZCI6IjExNzQ3In0=

http://m.sears.com/gladiator-77inch...j8zyCO5i10DUA-t8bwaDOhoCcWzw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

What do u guys think of these? Specifically the second one. It says 2000 pounds per shelf, so I would rearrange the 4 shelves at different positions so it could fit everything. My tank is 36.5 by 18.5 x 21 sump is 36 x 14 x 16.5 tall. Think the tank could go between the top and second shelf and the sump could go on the bottom one. I could even cut a hole in the shelf for the drains. I'm actually really leaning towards this type of steel shelf now....any input is greatly appreciated as I would like to pick this up tomorrow
 
I met a club member over five years ago, he had a steel rack like the one on the second link (Sears) it works. He had a surge tank on the top shelf. If you just need a place to put the tank I don't see a reason it wouldn't work; still you'll need a flat surface, plywood. A concern might be over time the shelving rusting due to the saltwater.
The first link (scaffold) I say no-no. It's not a stiff platform and is meant for temporary use.
 
hmm one concern is that the shelving unit is 77" wide and both my sump and tank are approximately 36. do u think thats okay?

yes i agree i would probably put plywood along the shelves holding the sump and the tank. this might help with the weight distribution across the shelf. the rust is a mild concern i will have to keep in mind.
 
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