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just finished the stand. pretty happy with how it turned out. just need to drill a box on top for the overflow. dont think im going to paint or seal this. on to plumbing next!

quick question, how would i go about sealing the drains in the tank if i want to fill it up with vinegar so that i can clean the overflow box?

edit: here is the stand. i actually might consider painting it.

<a href="http://imgur.com/CBvDZYM"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/CBvDZYM.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
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There is a guy on the Bay Area Reefers facebook page that is offering weldling services at a discount for BAR members. I mentioned that if I were to do it over again, which will never happen, considering what it took to move this tank in the first place, I would build/pay for a steel frames stand, and use magnetically attached wooden facades, to maximize under-tank space. Of course it would have to be painter darn well to avoid rusting!

V
 
You can also fill a spray bottle with vinegar and spray it in the overflow, but of course you'll have to do this a few times. You also still have the bulkeheads/pipes that came with the tank so you could re-install them and fill the area with vinegar.

V
 
okay so i made a preliminary list of plumbing items:

upload_2017-2-22_20-50-43.png


i know off the bat i need some sort of valve for the main drain and some return nozzles. i picked up a tunze 1073.020 rated for 634 gph off a member. theres a 58 gallon tank and a 35 (max) gallon sump: 58+35=93, 634/93 = 6.8x turnover (?) should be good enough. there was also someone selling a bigger return pump but i think this one will be ok. i was unsure of how the piping (white soft silicon tubing 3/4" (4ft)) connects to the return pump

how do all these valeves work? i want to use flex tubing as much as possible. what are check valves for? can i use the flex tubing on the threaded side from the tank to the sump? how do i connect the tubing to the return pump?
 
Show a pic of your return pump. Some have a barb that flex tube pushes onto, some need a fitting to connect the two. Don't bother w check valves. Find a better solution like keeping return close to surface or drilling a siphon break hole in a return nozzle.
 
upload_2017-2-22_22-46-2.png


hmm i see what you are saying. i measured and the pump is 3/4" across. what do i use to tighten it around the pump? can zipties work?

then i have it go to a return, or a Y and then two returns? can my 634gph pump handle two returns? seems like im better off with one then using something inside the tank. or upgrading the return pump if i want to do 2. any good return recommendations?
 

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I use plastic clamps from my local Ace hardware store. Use outer diameter of tubing and get the correct size. The Ace hardware I go to has about 20-30 different sizes sold individually for $1-1.5.

Photo%20Feb%2022%2C%2011%2016%2023%20PM.jpg


alvin chiao said:
View attachment 6561

hmm i see what you are saying. i measured and the pump is 3/4" across. what do i use to tighten it around the pump? can zipties work?

then i have it go to a return, or a Y and then two returns? can my 634gph pump handle two returns? seems like im better off with one then using something inside the tank. or upgrading the return pump if i want to do 2. any good return recommendations?
Click to expand...
 
alvin chiao said:
okay so i made a preliminary list of plumbing items:

i know off the bat i need some sort of valve for the main drain and some return nozzles. i picked up a tunze 1073.020 rated for 634 gph off a member. theres a 58 gallon tank and a 35 (max) gallon sump: 58+35=93, 634/93 = 6.8x turnover (?) should be good enough. there was also someone selling a bigger return pump but i think this one will be ok.
Click to expand...

You need to measure how many 90deg elbows you are going to use and total number of feet in hose/tubing you will use.

All that creates head pressure and the gph drops quite a bit.

From the manual

https://www.tunze.com/fileadmin/gebrauchsanleitungen/x1073.0588.pdf

With a conservative head of 1m or 3.3', flow drops to 1.25 cubic meter/hr or 330g/hr.

Your total volume of water is probably closer to 65g so might be ok at around 5x if the plumbing is short enough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You sure can use zip ties, cheap. For your tank's volume 300-600 gph pump should do the trick to bring water up from the sump so the Tunze will do.
 
Vhuang168 said:
You need to measure how many 90deg elbows you are going to use and total number of feet in hose/tubing you will use.

All that creates head pressure and the gph drops quite a bit.

From the manual

https://www.tunze.com/fileadmin/gebrauchsanleitungen/x1073.0588.pdf

With a conservative head of 1m or 3.3', flow drops to 1.25 cubic meter/hr or 330g/hr.

Your total volume of water is probably closer to 65g so might be ok at around 5x if the plumbing is short enough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Do I need any 90 degree elbows? I want to use soft pipe to bring up water back. Only 90 I can think of would be right at the top near the return.
 
Can I make the one inch pipe the one with the durso standpipe? And the 3/4" one an open emergency line? I'm so messed up, I bought all these different parts. I think I need a new standpipe for the 3/4" drain which should be the main drain? I have a gate valve for 3/4". So either I need a 1 inch gate valve or a 3/4" durso standpipe. I can use the gate 3/4" gate valve on the return I guess?
 
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Here's a picture. Is the durso standpipe for main? and if so, can my 1 inch drain be the main then the smaller 3/4" drain be emergency? They both go down to those white tubes via silicone tubing. The white tubes go in the sump and are fitted with 1" barbs for the two drains on the bulkhead which also both have 1" barbs for tubing.
 
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