Jestersix

Plumbing Design for IM40

I run classic UV 25w on roughly a 260 gallon system off the return with one pump pushing probably 500 gph after the bends. Also have a stand alone 24w with 120 gph I can toss is sump or tank if needed. But like you said the 25W and 57 are the same size. The bulbs are interchangeable so to downsize or upgrade just need a transformer to match the wattage of bulb.
 
The IM comes with two drain bulk heads and 2 return bulk heads (picture below)
  • Do I hand tighten the bulkheads or is there a tool?
  • Once tightened by hand/tool, I the PVC pipe would be glued to the inside? This is what I am thinking.
I have plumbed the red sea before, but it was a screw/twist on the the return/drain pipes. I am just not sure how to work with the bulkheads.

Thanks!

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fishy408 said:
The IM comes with two drain bulk heads and 2 return bulk heads (picture below)
  • Do I hand tighten the bulkheads or is there a tool?
  • Once tightened by hand/tool, I the PVC pipe would be glued to the inside? This is what I am thinking.
I have plumbed the red sea before, but it was a screw/twist on the the return/drain pipes. I am just not sure how to work with the bulkheads.

Thanks!

View attachment 45813
Click to expand...

The pvc just sits on the inside of the bulkhead in the external overflow box. Do not glue it.

 
fishy408 said:
Saw the video, but how does the PVC pipe connect to the bulkhead? I was thinking that it needs to be glued. That's where I don't understand. Thanks!
Click to expand...

The standpipe (pvc) inside the overflow box does not need to be glued. It may leak a little, but that won’t matter since that will be going to the sump. Also, the amount that leaks will be limited to the bottom of the weir and what’s left in the overflow box.

On the outside of the overflow box, you should glue the pipe or if threaded, use pipe dope and a threaded adapter.
 
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RandyC said:
The standpipe (pvc) inside the overflow box does not need to be glued. It may leak a little, but that won’t matter since that will be going to the sump. Also, the amount that leaks will be limited to the bottom of the weir and what’s left overflow box.

On the outside of the overflow box, you should glue the pipe or if threaded, use pipe dope and a threaded adapter.
Click to expand...

Thanks Randy. The part that I was missing was "On the outside of the overflow box, you should glue the pipe or if threaded, use pipe dope and a threaded adapter." For some reason it was hard to find this info, probably because it is common knowledge.

Think I am ready to give this a go when the pieces come. Thanks everyone!
 
fishy408 said:
Thanks Randy. The part that I was missing was "On the outside of the overflow box, you should glue the pipe or if threaded, use pipe dope and a threaded adapter." For some reason it was hard to find this info, probably because it is common knowledge.

Think I am ready to give this a go when the pieces come. Thanks everyone!
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Other option on that is swap the bulkheads for ones with threads and screw the outside piece on. I'm not clear why all these come with glue bulkheads versus screw, since glue means if you want to change anything later you need to cut a pipe and either get a new bulkhead or add a coupling.
 
richiev said:
Other option on that is swap the bulkheads for ones with threads and screw the outside piece on. I'm not clear why all these come with glue bulkheads versus screw, since glue means if you want to change anything later you need to cut a pipe and either get a new bulkhead or add a coupling.
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two words: salt creep

If you glue, no salt creep. You can use silicone for the threads, but its not a full proof solution to salt creep.
 
BAYMAC said:
two words: salt creep

If you glue, no salt creep. You can use silicone for the threads, but its not a full proof solution to salt creep.
Click to expand...

Salt creep is not a problem if you use pipe thread sealant. Silicon is not meant to be a sealant on threads. I have threaded buck heads running on a few tanks and have zero salt creep.

Rectorseal 23631 1/4 Pint Brush Top T Plus 2 Pipe Thread Sealant https://a.co/d/h5JStnx


These have been in service for over two years now without any leaks or cleaning of any kind using threaded bulkheads with the T2 pipe sealant.
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RandyC said:
Salt creep is not a problem if you use pipe thread sealant. Silicon is not meant to be a sealant on threads. I have threaded buck heads running on a few tanks and have zero salt creep.

Rectorseal 23631 1/4 Pint Brush Top T Plus 2 Pipe Thread Sealant https://a.co/d/h5JStnx
Click to expand...

Not in my experience.

I've used everything possible in my 30 years in aquaria, both personally and professionally. Silicon sealant is used quite often in aquaria plumbing, more so then pipe dope. Most of 104th uses it, I've used it in the numerous stores and facilities I've plumbed. Pipe dope not so much. It (pipe dope) as well isn't a final solution to salt creep.
 
BAYMAC said:
Not in my experience.

I've used everything possible in my 30 years in aquaria, both personally and professionally. Silicon sealant is used quite often in aquaria plumbing, more so then pipe dope. Most of 104th uses it, I've used it in the numerous stores and facilities I've plumbed. Pipe dope not so much. It (pipe dope) as well isn't a final solution to salt creep.
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I would agree here. In my extensive experience (3 times that I installed my overflow to get it to stop leaking), it was silicone sealant that finally did the trick.

30 years might have me beat by a bit though.
 
BAYMAC said:
Not in my experience.

I've used everything possible in my 30 years in aquaria, both personally and professionally. Silicon sealant is used quite often in aquaria plumbing, more so then pipe dope. Most of 104th uses it, I've used it in the numerous stores and facilities I've plumbed. Pipe dope not so much. It (pipe dope) as well isn't a final solution to salt creep.
Click to expand...

Your 30 years of tank experience beats me by far, but on the 3-4 tanks I’ve used Rector seal T2 pipe sealant on return lines and drain bulkheads, I haven’t seen a leak or salt creep.
 
fishy408 said:
Salt Creep between the seals, is this avoidable?

View attachment 45858
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Yeah. Make sure they’re clean. Sometimes coralline or vermitids grow in there and loosen the seal a bit. Also, seals can get old and wear down after a few years of use and need to be replaced. Or I just didn’t put it on well enough initially and the salt creep “sealed” it enough and it stopped.
 
Waiting on a couple of pieces but the rest are glued in. One of the union is backwards compared to the rest,

While working on this, I wonder why I didn’t get the 40L AIO version.
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