Kensington Reefer
Supporting Member
I run the classic 57 watt with a 900gph pump on a 400 gallon system
Plumbing Design for IM40
- Thread starter fishy408
- Start date
PjFish
Supporting Member
I run classic UV 25w on roughly a 260 gallon system off the return with one pump pushing probably 500 gph after the bends. Also have a stand alone 24w with 120 gph I can toss is sump or tank if needed. But like you said the 25W and 57 are the same size. The bulbs are interchangeable so to downsize or upgrade just need a transformer to match the wattage of bulb.
fishy408
Supporting Member
The IM comes with two drain bulk heads and 2 return bulk heads (picture below)
Thanks!
- Do I hand tighten the bulkheads or is there a tool?
- Once tightened by hand/tool, I the PVC pipe would be glued to the inside? This is what I am thinking.
Thanks!
SupraSaltyReefer
Supporting Member
The pvc just sits on the inside of the bulkhead in the external overflow box. Do not glue it.
fishy408
Supporting Member
Saw the video, but how does the PVC pipe connect to the bulkhead? I was thinking that it needs to be glued. That's where I don't understand. Thanks!
RandyC
Supporting Member
The standpipe (pvc) inside the overflow box does not need to be glued. It may leak a little, but that won’t matter since that will be going to the sump. Also, the amount that leaks will be limited to the bottom of the weir and what’s left in the overflow box.
On the outside of the overflow box, you should glue the pipe or if threaded, use pipe dope and a threaded adapter.
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fishy408
Supporting Member
Thanks Randy. The part that I was missing was "On the outside of the overflow box, you should glue the pipe or if threaded, use pipe dope and a threaded adapter." For some reason it was hard to find this info, probably because it is common knowledge.
Think I am ready to give this a go when the pieces come. Thanks everyone!
Other option on that is swap the bulkheads for ones with threads and screw the outside piece on. I'm not clear why all these come with glue bulkheads versus screw, since glue means if you want to change anything later you need to cut a pipe and either get a new bulkhead or add a coupling.
BAYMAC
Supporting Member
two words: salt creep
If you glue, no salt creep. You can use silicone for the threads, but its not a full proof solution to salt creep.
RandyC
Supporting Member
Salt creep is not a problem if you use pipe thread sealant. Silicon is not meant to be a sealant on threads. I have threaded buck heads running on a few tanks and have zero salt creep.
Rectorseal 23631 1/4 Pint Brush Top T Plus 2 Pipe Thread Sealant https://a.co/d/h5JStnx
These have been in service for over two years now without any leaks or cleaning of any kind using threaded bulkheads with the T2 pipe sealant.
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BAYMAC
Supporting Member
Not in my experience.
I've used everything possible in my 30 years in aquaria, both personally and professionally. Silicon sealant is used quite often in aquaria plumbing, more so then pipe dope. Most of 104th uses it, I've used it in the numerous stores and facilities I've plumbed. Pipe dope not so much. It (pipe dope) as well isn't a final solution to salt creep.
H2OPlayar
Supporting Member
I would agree here. In my extensive experience (3 times that I installed my overflow to get it to stop leaking), it was silicone sealant that finally did the trick.
30 years might have me beat by a bit though.
RandyC
Supporting Member
Your 30 years of tank experience beats me by far, but on the 3-4 tanks I’ve used Rector seal T2 pipe sealant on return lines and drain bulkheads, I haven’t seen a leak or salt creep.
RandyC
Supporting Member
Yeah. Make sure they’re clean. Sometimes coralline or vermitids grow in there and loosen the seal a bit. Also, seals can get old and wear down after a few years of use and need to be replaced. Or I just didn’t put it on well enough initially and the salt creep “sealed” it enough and it stopped.