High Tide Aquatics

Recommendation on Tubing on drain

I’m very confused on what you’re saying and the pictures don’t make sense to me. Take pictures that are further away. Then I can see what is overflow and return.
 

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Found this on @SupraSaltyReefer build thread this could be what i am looking for.
My Elos has the Quiet Drain 3 so it’ll be different than yours. My drain is hard plumbed then uses the tube to drain to a ReefMat.

Found this pic on R2R so it might be similar to what you’re trying to do.


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My Elos has the Quiet Drain 3 so it’ll be different than yours. My drain is hard plumbed then uses the tube to drain to a ReefMat.

Found this pic on R2R so it might be similar to what you’re trying to do.


View attachment 55435
Thank you, I looked into this thread. does not say what he bought. I think I can hard-line like psidriven said, but not sure how noisy it would be. Since it will be a straight line when the water drains. nothing really to control water coming down.
 
Elos is setup to be less loud than a lot of tanks. Unless you want it to be dead silent if just set it up as is. You can change the drain tube if you want to.you might be able to do the return over the back and use both holes for drains and do a herbie style drain. I’d have to look at the overflow box more tho to be sure
 
How does this piece connect to the overflow?
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The person you bought the tank off of would probably know best how to hard plumb it.

Looks like you just need to attach the original Elos barb to a vinyl tube and use another barb > coupler > pvc > reducer > pvc > gate valve > pvc.
 
think #11 post in this link shows your version. if so, you could put a gate valve but there isn't a failsafe.

 
I would never use a gate valve on a single drain.
Yeah. That’s asking for trouble.
This relates a to the thread I have going on for my redone frag tank. What's the main reason people say that? In all the modern tanks I've seen, the return section in the pump is sized such that if the drains completely stopped up you wouldn't have enough water in the display to overflow. I'm personally pro multi-drain + valve regardless, since I don't know how to get single drain quiet and consistent, but I'm wondering what people are thinking when saying that.

Other things I can imagine on the fly include having a return that's just struggling with barely any water, though I don't know if that's a concern to break it or not. Alternatively if you have all your heaters in the sump, there's a temp risk.
 
How does this piece connect to the overflow?
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The person you bought the tank off of would probably know best how to hard plumb it.

Looks like you just need to attach the original Elos barb to a vinyl tube and use another barb > coupler > pvc > reducer > pvc > gate valve > pvc.
This is how it connects. I believe previous owner had it on spa hose shown in pictures.
 

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after a bunch of research I ended up using a silicon tube for drain that sits inside chamber. Then hard plumed the rest. For now using home depot valve. I ordered the 1 1/4” Spears Gate Valve which i will swap. Also reduced it to run 1 inch pvc, plan is to have a reef Matt which @SupraSaltyReefer did to his elos. I will potentially end up converting the return to drain. And run my return hang on the back. So that way i have two drain entries.
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Risk reward doesn’t work out. Significant risks. Little to no reward? Balancing one drain at full siphon is not sustainable ime.
Besides the return pump running dry and the heaters you mentioned, a lot of people don’t have return pump compartment sized the way you say, some don’t even have baffles, and even if you did that’s where I run the auto top off. Which would keep refilling and overflow the tank eventually.
I have seen more than one tank overflow from clogged drains unfortunately. Even when there’s more than one.
 
Risk reward doesn’t work out. Significant risks. Little to no reward? Balancing one drain at full siphon is not sustainable ime.
Besides the return pump running dry and the heaters you mentioned, a lot of people don’t have return pump compartment sized the way you say, some don’t even have baffles, and even if you did that’s where I run the auto top off. Which would keep refilling and overflow the tank eventually.
I have seen more than one tank overflow from clogged drains unfortunately. Even when there’s more than one.
ATO in particular is a good call-out. Unless your ATO turns itself off after running too long, you'd nuke the tank dumping fresh in it. A gravity ATO would for sure do that, though many of the electric ones' timers would kick in and disable them. However then you're not topping off anything.

Cool, helpful. Thanks.
 
after a bunch of research I ended up using a silicon tube for drain that sits inside chamber. Then hard plumed the rest. For now using home depot valve. I ordered the 1 1/4” Spears Gate Valve which i will swap. Also reduced it to run 1 inch pvc, plan is to have a reef Matt which @SupraSaltyReefer did to his elos. I will potentially end up converting the return to drain. And run my return hang on the back. So that way i have two drain entries. View attachment 55472View attachment 55473

I would never reduce a drain line, ESPECIALLY if it's a single drain. You are just asking for trouble there.
 
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