Jestersix

Rodi setup help. Part 1 of 2

So current progress:

Attempting to hook up this rodi system today.

20240908_143301.jpg
20240908_143306.jpg
20240908_143317.jpg


I recieved the dual rodi resin unit today.

Hoses:

White- in take water from tap + connections between canisters
Red- waste water from RO membrane to sink drain
Blue - exit clean rodi water from di resin.
Clear-intended to bypass di resin for drinking water.


Connections:

Tap ------tdo in line probe1---->sediment filter(brand new 5micron)-----> carbon block(used ?)-------> carbon/clorine block (brand new 5micron)-----> ro membrane (used ?)---in line pressure gauge--tdo in line probe2---> di resin (new)---> di resin (new)---tdo in line probe3----> rodi storage container.

20240908_150729.jpg

*** just before the line from the ro membrane to the di canisters, I placed a 3 way spliter. One of the hoses bypassing di resin is intended for drinking water. Its a clear hose with a in line cut off.

I'm not sure if it makes sense. I'm hoping this is done correctly. I will try to hook it up and see how it goes.
 
Last edited:
So I'm semi confident I got it hooked up correctly. Though I won't bet any money on it.

Someone recommended me where to put the hoses from the used unit I had. That came out/in the ro membrane.

I won't blame the advice they gave. However following it to the letter I think i had everything all mixed up. The water meant to come out the waste from RO membrane was barely a trickle, while the water passing through the DI resin was a constant stream.

The in line tdo meter readings were crazy as heck as well. It showed water going in was lower tdo than the water before the membrane. Water after DI said 0.

So after swaping hoses a few time i think I got corrected.

Di water is trickle reading 0 tdos, waste water from RO membrane is a steady stream. The in line tdo meters ranges are as follows.

Probe 1- 289 tdo
Probe 2- ranges alternates between showing
39-17-9 tdo
Probe 3- 0 tdo.

My cheap Amazon tdo meter reads 440 out the tap, 89 after ro membrane, and zero for after the di resin.

Very different readings between the two devices.

* I did ensure the in line probes were properly installed in the tubes with Probe fully seated and turned the right direction feild goal post style according to all the vidoes i seen about them.

The pressure gauge brand new is showing no pressure at all. No clue why the needle isn’t moving.

Both meters are showing 0 tdos after di resin. Can't explain why given the desired readings after the di resin I remain highly nervous to actually try this water in my main tank.

Does anyone have experience with different tdo readings from hand held readings compared to in line meters?
 
Last edited:
MichaelB said:
So I'm semi confident I got it hooked up correctly. Though I won't bet any money on it.

Someone recommended me where to put the hoses from the used unit I had. That came out/in the ro membrane.

I won't blame the advice they gave. However following it to the letter I think i had everything all mixed up. The water meant to come out the waste from RO membrane was barely a trickle, while the water passing through the DI resin was a constant stream.

The in line tdo meter readings were crazy as heck as well. It showed water going in was lower tdo that water before the membrane. Water after DI said 0.

So after swaping hoses a few time i think I got corrected.

Di water is trickle reading 0 tdos, waste water from RO membrane is a steady stream. The in line tdo meters ranges are as follows.

Probe 1- 289 tdo
Probe 2- ranges alternatnates between showing
39-17-9 tdo
Probe 3- 0 tdo.

My cheap Amazon tdo meter reads 440 put the tap, 89 after ro membrane, and zero For di resin.

Very different readings between the two devices.

* I did ensure the in line probes were properly installed in the tubes with Probe fully seated and turned the right direction feild goal post style according to all the vidoes i seen about them.

The pressure gauge brand new is showing no pressure at all. No clue why the needle isn’t moving.

Both meters are showing 0 tdos after di resin. Can't explain why given the desired readings after the di resin I remain highly nervous to actually try this water in my main tank.

Does anyone have experience with different tdo readings from hand held readings compared to in line meters?
Click to expand...
Great that you got that sorted.

39tds is high coming out of a membrane. Most 75gpd membranes have more than a 95% (often 97ish) rejection rate, meaning you should have less than 5% TDS left, meaning that given your 290ppm TDS tap, you should have less than 15ppm TDS coming out. Of course somewhere within that general area is acceptable, but 39 is on the higher end. This just means you will chew through resin 39/15 = 2.6 times faster.

With my RODI system, I don’t have a tap water reading, instead opting for: after membrane, after DI 1, after DI 2. This way I know when DI 1 is exhausted, and then can change it and swap canisters with DI 2 (so that DI 2 is never burned through as a laziness safety buffer, and so that no resin is wasted).

I got a tds meter in amazon that cost, i kid you not, $1.89, and while I don’t trust it for actual RODI, it reads my tap water to be the same as yours: in the ballpark of 290 as well.
 
tribbitt said:
Great that you got that sorted.

39tds is high coming out of a membrane. Most 75gpd membranes have more than a 95% (often 97ish) rejection rate, meaning you should have less than 5% TDS left, meaning that given your 290ppm TDS tap, you should have less than 15ppm TDS coming out. Of course somewhere within that general area is acceptable, but 39 is on the higher end. This just means you will chew through resin 39/15 = 2.6 times faster.

With my RODI system, I don’t have a tap water reading, instead opting for: after membrane, after DI 1, after DI 2. This way I know when DI 1 is exhausted, and then can change it and swap canisters with DI 2 (so that DI 2 is never burned through as a laziness safety buffer, and so that no resin is wasted).

I got a tds meter in amazon that cost, i kid you not, $1.89, and while I don’t trust it for actual RODI, it reads my tap water to be the same as yours: in the ballpark of 290 as well.
Click to expand...


I will probably swap the ro membrane this coming week, being the one I have is used. You mentioned a cheaper one earlier ? Do you have a link to it? I'm not certain which one would be cheap but decent. I don't wanna go so cheap I'll still have to get another one because it functions poorly.

I saw a few really cheap ones on amazon that are probably china knock offs or something that left me susucpious.
 
MichaelB said:
I will probably swap the ro membrane this coming week, being the one I have is used. You mentioned a cheaper one earlier ? Do you have a link to it? I'm not certain which one would be cheap but decent. I don't wanna go so cheap I'll still have to get another one because it functions poorly.

I saw a few really cheap ones on amazon that are probably china knock offs or something that left me susucpious.
Click to expand...
at around $30+ you can get a decent one - don't do 100 or 150gpd, unless you need that much water it's really not worth it + rejection rate is usually not as good. Mine was $25 actually and it leaves me with 5tds, all the way from 290. But I cannot remember the brand :(
 
These are the ones Telegraham recommends. I tend to trust what he says. I know there’s a thread on here somewhere about membranes but I can’t find it. I think it was @Coral reefer and @Darkxerox that had recommendations but I could be wrong
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0109.png
    IMG_0109.png
    143.5 KB · Views: 40
  • IMG_0110.png
    IMG_0110.png
    231 KB · Views: 41
MarcosDelgado0 said:
These are the ones Telegraham recommends. I tend to trust what he says. I know there’s a thread on here somewhere about membranes but I can’t find it. I think it was @Coral reefer and @Darkxerox that had recommendations but I could be wrong
Click to expand...

Thanks, I added the membranes to my cart, plan to order on pay day.
Screenshot_20240908_200350_Amazon Shopping.jpg

This is the in line meter I got. I saw the one from the post, byt would have took 2-3 weeks according to shipping estimates.

This one seems to be made by the same company for like $10 more. With 3 lines instead of 2 and it came in two days. I'm hoping it's of same quality of other one he suggested.

It's making 0 tdo rodi water, according to both meters. I will fill more confident though after I swap the membrane for a new one. I have it running to test out tbe float valve etc. I will probably use this first batch of water for ato on my other two tanks, and stick with Neptunes for my main one until i get the new membranes.

Screenshot_20240908_200542_Amazon Shopping.jpg

I suspect I hooked up the pressure gauge wrong somehow, it’s brand new so I would assume it wouldn't just read zero no matter what my pressure is.
 
So I have a follow up question.

Tested the system overnight float valve function properly. No leaks and seemed to be preforming well. I will check tdos again when j get home to be certain.

Yet system keep sending out waste water all night. I'm hoping there is something I can do that makes the whole thing shut down when rodi storage container is full?

When i woke up i saw the container was full and closed the valve on the tap water in line to stop it.

So it doesn’t just waste water after the task is completed.

Is there something I should get or something can install that does it automatically?
 
MichaelB said:
So I have a follow up question.

Tested the system overnight float valve function properly. No leaks and seemed to be preforming well. I will check tdos again when j get home to be certain.

Yet system keep sending out waste water all night. I'm hoping there is something I can do that makes the whole thing shut down when rodi storage container is full?

When i woke up i saw the container was full and closed the valve on the tap water in line to stop it.

So it doesn’t just waste water after the task is completed.

Is there something I should get or something can install that does it automatically?
Click to expand...
How far is the source from the float valve? I’ve noticed when I bring my brute with float valve close to the source the auto shutoff will turn off both waste and product water. But if I hook up a long piece of tubing between the brute and source so I can fill it up in my room, it won’t turn off the waste. I’m not sure why but those are just my observations
 
MarcosDelgado0 said:
How far is the source from the float valve? I’ve noticed when I bring my brute with float valve close to the source the auto shutoff will turn off both waste and product water. But if I hook up a long piece of tubing between the brute and source so I can fill it up in my room, it won’t turn off the waste. I’m not sure why but those are just my observations
Click to expand...
Whats a auto shut off? Lmao i only have a float valve.

This was peice together from a used ro filter. So clearly I maybe missing some parts. First ever system so i have no clue what it should have or shouldn't have.

It's like 3/5 feet from the sink drain
 
MichaelB said:
Whats a auto shut off? Lmao i only have a float valve.

This was peice together from a used ro filter. So clearly I maybe missing some parts. First ever system so i have no clue what it should have or shouldn't have.

It's like 3/5 feet from the sink drain
Click to expand...
Oh yeah you’re missing that part. I think I have a spare one actually I’ll check. From looking it up, I guess since I’m pushing water far from the source it doesn’t create enough back pressure so it doesn’t turn off

From the description:
1/4" Automatic shut off valves are used with float valves or pressurized tanks to shut off an RO system. It utilizes the back pressure created by the float valve or pressurized tank to shut off the water supply to the membrane. Without an automatic shut off valve waste water would continue to run out after the float valve is activated or tank becomes full.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0121.jpeg
    IMG_0121.jpeg
    57.5 KB · Views: 32
Auto shutoff switch. Usually requires 40PSI to work.

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Auto Shut Off Kit for Reverse Osmosis Systems

All Bulk Reef Supply RODI units come pre-installed with an Auto Shut Off Valve and check elbow. If you wish to add a float valve to your BRS RODI system, just purchase a float valve separately and connect it to your product water line. Standard Float Valve Adjustable Float Valve Auto shut off...
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com

IMG_3387.png



Or use a solenoid connected to apex/hydros with optical sensors or float switches.
 
RandyC said:
Auto shutoff switch. Usually requires 40PSI to work.

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Auto Shut Off Kit for Reverse Osmosis Systems

All Bulk Reef Supply RODI units come pre-installed with an Auto Shut Off Valve and check elbow. If you wish to add a float valve to your BRS RODI system, just purchase a float valve separately and connect it to your product water line. Standard Float Valve Adjustable Float Valve Auto shut off...
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com

View attachment 60196


Or use a solenoid connected to apex/hydros with optical sensors or float switches.
Click to expand...
The one in the Amazon screenshot is the spare I have. Minus the blue tubing but if you need some I think I have some somewhere
 
My auto-shutoff doesn’t quite work. I tested by putting a murloc valve at the end of my product line, and closed, the auto shut off makes loud vibrations and does not block the water.

Did I install it the wrong orientation?

Photo: (colors are mostly arbitrary) Bottom(right) white line goes into membrane, red is pre-membrane.

Blue Y is product, and top white line on the other side goes to resin
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    38.1 KB · Views: 29
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top