I also have used iorc for years and keep most tanks between 8-9. Yes a water change will increase it a little, but it will come back down over time if you just dose a little less. The thing about being at 10 is I feel like you’re on the doorstep of potential disaster if it goes up much, and I feel like it’s kind of for no reason. I see what you’re trying to do, but I don’t think it’s worth keeping it that high just to match your new waterThat’s just what IORC mixes to. Eventually I’ll switch to a lower alk salt. My ideal parameters are 8/450/1450. Eric said Aquaforest salt mixes to around that.
Good advice, I will drop it down to 8 slowly.I also have used iorc for years and keep most tanks between 8-9. Yes a water change will increase it a little, but it will come back down over time if you just dose a little less. The thing about being at 10 is I feel like you’re on the doorstep of potential disaster if it goes up much, and I feel like it’s kind of for no reason. I see what you’re trying to do, but I don’t think it’s worth keeping it that high just to match your new water
Nitrate is usually easy enough to dose by hand once or twice a week once you find the rhythm. Dosing it a little bit daily is not necessary ime.
If you're saying you're just trying to dose 1ml, then that does seem like it'd be hard for a doser to do. The easy solution is just dose 10ml, and do that by just diluting the nitrate 10:1 RODO:nitrate. 1ml daily though seems like not very much nitrate being dosed.Turns out my doser is too cheap to dose 1ml reliably so my nitrate hit 0 again and phosphate is 0.092. I might just manually have it dose nitrate once or twice a week.
The high phosphates explain why my glass now requires daily cleaning. I’m assuming it’s from the pink streak wrasse that didn’t make it.
I've grown to dislike my aquascape so I'm keeping the racks for a little while. Where there's optimal light there's also too much flow or vice versa. I could add rock islands to house my species specific gardens. I'd really like to upgrade to a commercial made or at least negative space aquascape.Are you just gonna keep stuff on racks forever?
I agree, thats why I have been slowly ramping up my feeding based on @H2OPlayar 's advice! I'm feeding 20ML of A/B+ daily and I try to feed a variety of frozen foods and pellets 1-2x per day. I think I need to start feeding my urchin nori as its running out of algae to eat.I spent my first 6 months scared of overfeeding. I heard it constantly. Since I don't run fish...I didn't do anything but water changes. For 6 months. Then I tried reef roids maybe once every 2 or 3 weeks. Spot fed to minimize overfeeding chances.
Yes, corals were fine, inverts were fine, etc. It was all just....fine. The frog spawn hadn't grown, acan didn't add any new heads, zoas just barely, maybe on a good month, would add a new polip.
Then I visited @H2OPlayar and got the....just feed....and feed....and feed. Well, maybe not that much. So I started feeding the corals 2-3 times a week. Spot feeding still...with LPS pellets and reef roids. The growth has been spectacular by comparison. Probably normal for everyone else. The frog spawn has 3 heads split on top and 2 buds down at the lower edge of the main head. Acans are throwing up new heads, the chalice have doubled and the lepto is looking great.
Maybe after not really feeding for the first 6 months the tank was solid, copapods and bacteria were stable, etc. So feeding at that point, the tank could take the nutrition without an algea outbreak.
I don't check anything but alk, mg, ca and salinity. But I also check all the corals every day....and they complain if there is a problem...pretty quickly.