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Salinity still a problem

Darkxerox said:
Sorry if we're asking a lot of the same questions but it's hard to keep track of what you have and your experience level in the hobby without a tank journal. That way we can see what equipment you're using, size of the tank, livestock, etc. in one place. Do you think you could spend a few minutes to create one? It will pay off in the end!

Tank Journals

Tell us about your tank or tank build
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This!
 
nnero66466 said:
Both of mine are refractometers. Both were calibrated with distilled water. I’ve done numerous water top offs with fresh rodi water from 10 gallons or more and it never dropped except for 1 day it was 1.028. Then right back up again. Buy my salt water from Kenny and was about to get more but store was closed yesterday. Just wanted to run it by you all and get your thoughts. Michael all the parts for new filter came in and will get that going one new water gets bought. Also the ATOP as well. Thank goodness I had that little tank but the fish are being picked on by my other set of clownfish. But the fairy basselet is the biggest bully
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Glad to hear that, getting your salinity in proper range should be your top objective, and that ato set up. Just about everyone that commented here has been doing this longer than me, all i see is sound advice.
 
JVU said:
There isn’t anything in a tank that will hold on to or release salt. Unless of course you add undissolved salt. Adding and consuming a significant amount of 2-part Alk/Ca will increase salt. Another common reason is if top-off from evaporation is with saltwater instead of freshwater.

I’d start by bringing some of your water in to Kenny’s store and have him check the salinity. Bring your meter or whatever you are using to check against his at the same time. Salinity can be difficult to know the ground-truth, but you should consider Kenny’s readings accurate.

Next, if you’ve confirmed your salinity is high, the solution is simple. Dump out some water and replace it with the same amount of fresh RO/DI water. How much depends on the size of your tank, go slow at first. Re-measure. Repeat. How rapidly you can change is open for debate, but if your reading is accurate (1.030) and you want to get to 1.026, you can probably get there in 1 day safely with a bunch of small corrections.

Consider using salinity in ppt or PSU, either of which would have a target of 35. Whole numbers are easier to not make mistakes with. Instead of specific gravity (1.026).
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Will do what you suggested and have Kenny check water and refractometer. Thank you!
 
nnero66466 said:
I’m back…I’ve done a complete tank water change. Lost my flame angel fish. Moved my other 5 fishies to my 13 gallon tank to save them.
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Hi sorry about the flame there cool fish! It appears you’ve been dealing with this salinity issue for well over a week on your almost 3 month old new tank. You emptied all the water and replaced with new (heated) water to remedy what temp was the saltwater?
Are you using natural salt water from the ocean or premix bucket salt?
How many gallons is your tank?
Whats your bio load how many fish total? Feel free to share parameters
And what type like all in one, hang on back filter or sump underneath?
Sounds like your adding distilled or Rodi water by hand as water evaporates.
Do you have a mark/ tape or line on tank or sump to easily see water level and maintain that exact mark daily? Or eyeball.. Small tanks can get outa wack fast especially if your salinity is off at the start! Their are different types of refractometers some have auto temperature correction ATC which can take over 1/2 a minute to get a reading correctly anything before may be wrong so just check what model. I use both refractometer or hydrometer with cylinder if or when I test
Are you dosing or adding anything to the tank? Types of food and snacks

Several of us use the exact water you are buying and have zero issues so with a few facts we can rule out others to resolve your issue easier and easily. Alota members here asking great questions and sound advice! BAR to the rescue! wait that sounds like a shirt!
Best of luck
 
MichaelB said:
Maybe mine just sucked lol, it was blury hard to see the numbers and a headache, hardly any light beyond a flash light a inch from it was bright enough to even see the blury graph. In the end i was always guessing what it said.

The hanna remove cap, press power it reads, calibrate open pack hit cal wait 5 seconds good for another month or two.

In fairness i had annoying experience with the refractometer I had. I only ever had the one, so as mentioned above not sure if mine was just junk.
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All refractometers have a focus ring on the eyepiece you turn/spin by hand like binoculars adjusting to your vision which clears up the blurred scale. If you turned the focus ring and still blurry then its broken! Or your not pressing down clearing the air out of the sample possibly..
 
PjFish said:
All refractometers have a focus ring on the eyepiece you turn/spin by hand like binoculars adjusting to your vision which clears up the blurred scale. If you turned the focus ring and still blurry then its broken! Or your not pressing down clearing the air out of the sample possibly..
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I did that it Didn't help at all. Was just blury. Probably was a cheap china one i got it from Amazon for cheap. I just assumed the all just worked like that.
 
I am not sure if this has been answered, but what are you using for top off water? And I didn't catch you say you if you tested the salinity of the water before you added into your tank. I know it might be stupid to ask this simple question.
 
Did you fix your salinity and figure out what your issue was on your 35g waterbox AIO? Hope your other fish are fine! When you hook up your auto top off… don't submerge the line in the display tank water or you will get a siphon in the opposite direction overflowing the rodi container then floor!! Check valves don’t have the best reliability and can fail fyi
 
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