Kessil

Tank Flood

Jeff Rehling

Jeff Rehling

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My tank overflowed slightly Wednesday afternoon and fortunately (maybe) my wife was home and was able to shut off the return pump. All my device controllers are mounted on the wall above a splash line, but the power converters were on the floor. They didn't break, but are there DIY cases to hold them attached to a controller board or the wall to prevent this?

Thanks
 
I usually build tiny shelves to hold them, or just hang them with wire from a screw or two.

You might want some leak detectors or DT high-level detectors that can shut off your pump.
(Plus of course, fix the drains)
 
What do you have a return pump? What do you have an overflow.

As to your power bricks, I would just use zip ties and finish nails to attach them to a board. Sure they aren't removable but you shouldn't need to remove them unless they break, in which case the cost of 2 new zip ties isn't exactly breaking the bank.
 
The main focus should be on why the “drains couldn’t keep up.” An oversized return pump is not going to suddenly overflow a tank in the middle of the day after running fine for days or even hours. Once a system is in equilibrium, volume into the tank, goes down into the sump in equal amounts.

Something must have obstructed or narrowed your drain pipe. That’s why emergency drains are important. Hopefully you have an emergency drain that doesn’t have any restriction on it.

Secondly, consider designing your sump in such a way to where the pump will run dry before it overflows your DT. Some well placed baffles could help.

While I agree that your power strips should be protected from water exposure, your system can be designed to never overflow barring an act of God.

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Secondly, consider designing your sump in such a way to where the pump will run dry before it overflows your DT. Some well placed baffles could help.
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Never ever thought about baffles changing a return section to prevent overflow. Always something more to consider in reefing.

Jeff - bummer this happened and glad your wife was there to turn it off. (At first I thought it was the school tank - my nightmare.) Hopefully you can get the drain situation figured out very soon.
 
Yes, have an emergency drain--inspection shows neither were blocked. I've been having this problem for a couple weeks and the only conclusion I can come to is the RP is overpowered for the drain capacity. I did have it set up that way in the sump, but the ATO kicked on and kept filling the overflow. I have the Tunze ATO and the sensors are currently in the RP section.


Gablami said:
The main focus should be on why the “drains couldn’t keep up.” An oversized return pump is not going to suddenly overflow a tank in the middle of the day after running fine for days or even hours. Once a system is in equilibrium, volume into the tank, goes down into the sump in equal amounts.

Something must have obstructed or narrowed your drain pipe. That’s why emergency drains are important. Hopefully you have an emergency drain that doesn’t have any restriction on it.

Secondly, consider designing your sump in such a way to where the pump will run dry before it overflows your DT. Some well placed baffles could help.

While I agree that your power strips should be protected from water exposure, your system can be designed to never overflow barring an act of God.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
I guess you're saying it never really stabilized since you had the issues a couple weeks ago. It still sounds to me like you could get an air bubble in your main drain that blocks flow.
 
simply test. Open up all your ball/gate valves in your drains. Turn on the pump, what happens?

My guess is that it will start to go into the emergency drain than the main drain goes full siphon and sucks all the water then runs dry and burbs. Cycle starts all over.


I remember that you have gate valve on your emergency drain. That should always be wide open, even if you are using it as a trickle. Use the valve on the full siphon to close the main drain until only just a little water is going into the emergency. And I mean itsy bitsy little bit. If you can get it where NO water goes in but main drain is full siphon would be pefect.
 
Jeff Rehling said:
Yes, have an emergency drain--inspection shows neither were blocked. I've been having this problem for a couple weeks and the only conclusion I can come to is the RP is overpowered for the drain capacity. I did have it set up that way in the sump, but the ATO kicked on and kept filling the overflow. I have the Tunze ATO and the sensors are currently in the RP section.
Click to expand...
If your ATO is kicking in and increasing the volume of system to the point of overflow, that’s another possibility. But for that much added ATO volume, you should notice a significant salinity shift.

Also a very important issue to figure out.


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Here's my nickels worth of advise, block all your drains EXCEPT the emergency drain. Turn on your return pump, if the emergency drain can't keep up, then yes your pump is oversized.
 
Vhuang168 said:
simply test. Open up all your ball/gate valves in your drains. Turn on the pump, what happens?

My guess is that it will start to go into the emergency drain than the main drain goes full siphon and sucks all the water then runs dry and burbs. Cycle starts all over.


I remember that you have gate valve on your emergency drain. That should always be wide open, even if you are using it as a trickle. Use the valve on the full siphon to close the main drain until only just a little water is going into the emergency. And I mean itsy bitsy little bit. If you can get it where NO water goes in but main drain is full siphon would be pefect.
Click to expand...


i was wrong...no gate on the E-drain.
 
Closed main drain, tank began to overflow. Have to try to turn down the synchra. Anyone have a 1" PVC gate valve for sale? don't want to wait four days for Amazon
 
If you want to restrict flow dont put a valve on your return pump, instead put a tee on the output that goes to the tank and back to your sump, then put a valve on the sump part of the tee. Then the more closed the valve is the more water gets to your tank
 
Neptune’s has gate valves. Home Depot and Lowe’s should have them as well. And for the return line, you can use a ball valve too I think.
 
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